Bad 7 Pin Connector

[Bob Landry]

Shortly after starting this trip, my truck started displaying Trailer Disconnected message. This happened occasionally on my previous truck, but I was always able to jam it in and get it to work. Now I can't even do that. I have all my lights, just not brakes, so I suspect that connector on the plug is weak. I havn't taken it apart to see if I can "respring it" yet, and that's on my project list for this trip.

If it comes down to it, would I be better off just replacing the connector or just change out the entire plug and cable assembly and in the junction box. I'm comfortable either way, I just want to only have to do this once.

[maxx1963]

I have replaced 3 of mine with Hopkins off amazon for $9 they work great!!

[JRTJH]

Bob,

Somewhere back in the "gray matter" I remember something about Ford using a Pollak connector and most RV manufacturers use either a Bargman or a Hopkins connector. They are "supposed" to be compatable, but if I remember correctly, the Pollak truck end has slightly smaller (or thinner) blades than the Bargman. So, with a little corrosion, the pins don't make good contact and the truck's computer "thinks" the trailer disconnected.

The remedy is to use a contact cleaner (or emery cloth) to remove all the corrosion and keep a good coating of di-electric compound on both ends to prevent further corrosion.

I had the problem on my F150 and the dealership worked on it and could never find a problem with the truck. My fifth wheel would "fail" but my flatbed trailer never had an issue. I got to looking and the fifth wheel had a Bargman, the flatbed had a Pollak connector.

I cleaned the plugs well with an emery cloth, sprayed with contact cleaner and coated with di-electric and the problem seemed to go away. I didn't discover this, I found the fix at Ford.com in a forum thread about the problem, so I can't take credit for the "discovery" LOL

Worked for me, maybe give it a try????

[Jim & DJ]

Shortly after starting this trip, my truck started displaying Trailer Disconnected message. This happened occasionally on my previous truck, but I was always able to jam it in and get it to work. Now I can't even do that. I have all my lights, just not brakes, so I suspect that connector on the plug is weak. I havn't taken it apart to see if I can "respring it" yet, and that's on my project list for this trip.

If it comes down to it, would I be better off just replacing the connector or just change out the entire plug and cable assembly and in the junction box. I'm comfortable either way, I just want to only have to do this once.
We would have that problem with our last TT when hooking up. Might sound gross but to cure the problem each time I just used to spit into the male end and it would start working every time.

[MarkS]

Newer Chevy's use Pollak also. I have weak brakes unless I am careful to push the plug in really hard. On my todo list to replace the plug.

[Bob Landry]

Bob,

Somewhere back in the "gray matter" I remember something about Ford using a Pollak connector and most RV manufacturers use either a Bargman or a Hopkins connector. They are "supposed" to be compatable, but if I remember correctly, the Pollak truck end has slightly smaller (or thinner) blades than the Bargman. So, with a little corrosion, the pins don't make good contact and the truck's computer "thinks" the trailer disconnected.

The remedy is to use a contact cleaner (or emery cloth) to remove all the corrosion and keep a good coating of di-electric compound on both ends to prevent further corrosion.

I had the problem on my F150 and the dealership worked on it and could never find a problem with the truck. My fifth wheel would "fail" but my flatbed trailer never had an issue. I got to looking and the fifth wheel had a Bargman, the flatbed had a Pollak connector.

I cleaned the plugs well with an emery cloth, sprayed with contact cleaner and coated with di-electric and the problem seemed to go away. I didn't discover this, I found the fix at Ford.com in a forum thread about the problem, so I can't take credit for the "discovery" LOL

Worked for me, maybe give it a try????

Thanks, John..
All of that makes sense. I'm not sure about the truck, but my trailer end is Bargman, and all I know is that the plug doesn't fit the truck and I'm without trailer brakes. I'm also guessing that Bargman is the cheaper brand and that's why the trailer manufacturers use them. Right now I'm sitting in a park outside of Hot Springs, Ar, so I've got plenty of time to call around and find a connector. My plug is molded and there's no way to get into it to clean contacts, and there's not much use in cleaning connectors that are a mismatch anyway.
Thanks again.. You guys are the bomb.

My list of to dos on this trailer just isn'y getting shorter.

BTW, I narrowed down my compressor issue with not running when plugged in at my storage place. It's the facilities' power. I hit the switch on my compressor while ago and it fired right off.

[K4BEV]

Tractor Supply should have the plug you need.
Most national car parts places too...

[Bob Landry]

Finding a plug isn't the issue. I want to find the one that mates with what I have. When I plug the trailer connector in, I feel zero resistance as the plug is inserted or removed. It will do me no good to pick up a generic plug, install it and have it end up with the same problem.
'

[ROLIN JOSEPH]

Bob,
I have replaced my Cougar (Bargman) female plug with a generic one from Princess Auto, (their in-house brand). It works well and is nice and tight. My tow vehicle is a 2007 Chevy Classic 2500HD D/A.
I had to replace mine because one of the pins was bent from day one but thought I could straighten it out later. Never could.

[Bob Landry]

I found a plug at a RV dealership here in Hot Springs. It's a Pollak. I took it outside to see how it fit the 7-pin on th truck, and I thought I was going to have to hit it to make it connect. Looks like that is probably going to solve my issue.

Edit: Problem solved. John, thanks for the heads up about the Pollak plug.

[Ken / Claudia]

I had same problem with current truck and Artic Fox years ago. The spray cleaner was cheapest,easy to do so tryed it first before replaceing anything, and it worked, I have been spraying once a year or so and no further problems.