Hot water bypass

[Dadstoy]

Do all hot water heaters have a bypass? I'm getting ready to winterize our 1890 FL and cant find a bypass valve.

[hankpage]

I am pretty sure all Keystones since '06 have had them, most had them before that. If you can see the back of your water heater the valve will be on the rear of the vertical tubing. (you may not see it but if you reach behind the tube you will feel it ... it is a ¼ turn valve)

[outwest]

On the keystone Vantage it's one of the controls in the compartment where the freshwater hookup is (on ours it wasn't labeled), on another trailer we had ('09 Open Range brand) it was one of a group of unlabeled valves inside, next to the water pump. On our '84 Avion there was no bypass, but sister's '86 Avion had one near water heater.

Dunno if that helps, but basically most newer trailers have it and it is usually in one of three places- in outside convenience center, near pump, or near heater.

[Dadstoy]

I found the bypass valve by removing a plywood partition under the sink.
I also removed the plastic drain plug and installed a brass drain valve. Now I need to go to the RV store and buy a inlet fitting for the Jet flow pump. That way I can pump my RV antifreeze through the system.

[rlehna]

I have a 2014 27rks and can't seem to find the access to the rear side of the water heater or where ever the the bypass valve is located as well. Any ideas?

[rlehna]

The bypass valve is located behind the aft plywood panel of the drivers side storage compartment on the back side of the water heater

[JRTJH]

I have a 2014 27rks and can't seem to find the access to the rear side of the water heater or where ever the the bypass valve is located as well. Any ideas?

The bypass valve is located behind the aft plywood panel of the drivers side storage compartment on the back side of the water heater

To further explain the location. Open the basement door on the driver's side (road side) of your fifth wheel, on the rear wall of that compartment is a panel held in place by two screws in a 1x1" molding into the side wall of the RV and by two screws at the other end of that panel (about 30" long). Remove those screws and pull the panel away from the wall. Inside you will find the hot water heater (enclosed in styrofoam) and plumbing attached to the back of it. On that plumbing, at the bottom T fitting you will find a 1/4 turn valve. Turn it to the "bypass" position (it will currently be in the 'On" position). Then, once your hot water heater is cool (don't scald yourself) open the pressure relief valve located inside the hot water heater outside door) to relieve pressure, then use a 1 1/16" socket to remove the anode rod to drain the hot water heater. You will need to open the relief valve and hold it open for the hot water heater to drain.

I would sugget just placing the wall panel back in position (don't reinstall it) since you will need to remove it again to access the bypass valve in the spring to place it back in the "on" position.

Also, inside that panel is the heat ducting that provides heat to the bathroom and bedroom registers as well as the drain for the shower.

[theeyres]

Holding the relief valve open to drain? I always just opened a hot water faucet in the trailer. Has worked fine for 30 years.

[therink]

You will find the bypass valve on the inside (cabin side) of water heater (unless your bypass valve is located separately in the water works area). You will likely have to remove a false panel of some sort to access cabin side of water heater. There should be a white valve, which is turned 1/4 turn to bypass it. Don't forget to drain and flush out the heater via drain plug / anode rod removal on outside. I usually retape and reinstall the plug/anode so that threads don't become corroded over winter.
Steve

[JRTJH]

Holding the relief valve open to drain? I always just opened a hot water faucet in the trailer. Has worked fine for 30 years.

Your method will work BEFORE you close the bypass valve. After the bypass valve is set to "bypass" opening the faucets is no longer "in the loop" That's when you will need to open the relief valve to drain the HWH.

[theeyres]

Your method will work BEFORE you close the bypass valve. After the bypass valve is set to "bypass" opening the faucets is no longer "in the loop" That's when you will need to open the relief valve to drain the HWH.
That makes sense. I have always drained it when I'm draining everything else, then close the bypass valve and put in the anti-freeze.

[JRTJH]

Earl,

Not that any one way is more correct than any other, the way I start my winterization is to connect a water hose to the trailer, remove the anode rod and turn the water hose on at the water supply faucet. That water pressure flushes out any sediment in the bottom of the tank. (flushing is recommended by the HWH manufacturers to remove sediment). Then I turn the water off at the faucet, close the bypass valve, open the low point drains and HWH relief valve and drain the water from the HWH and the lines.

I suppose it would be essentially the same to leave the low point drains open and close the bypass valve after the HWH is empty, I just got in the habit of standing by the HWH watching it drain so I know it's empty. Holding the relief valve, I guess, just gave me something to do while standing there ????? :)

I also use a pressure nozzle and a piece of rubber tubing to rinse out the bottom of the HWH and then use the same tubing to vacuum out all the remaining water from the HWH. That's probably "overkill" since the owner's manual says the 2 quarts of water remaining in the tank won't cause damage if it freezes. I just like to make sure it's completely empty.

I'd think your method is just as good, just a different way to "skin the cat."