New member and owner of a Bullet Premier 31BHPR

[Shogunles]

Hello all, new member. Just wanted to say hello and ask a couple of questions about my 2014 Bullet Premier 31BHPR. Which we love by the way! We use the heck out of all 3 of the travel trailers we have owned. And we I tent to use this one in the same way. Up and down the East Coast and no further than the Mississippi. A coast to coast trip is in the works in the next few years.

Anyway, there is only so much you can see wrong with your unit during the initial demo at the dealer. Not too much was noticed other than a few low point valves and U trap valves needed tightening. However, we are on our first trip with it to NC from NY and we noticed of all things that we do not have a toilet paper holder! I cannot imagine it would not come with one. Just the same I wanted to check in case it did not come with one.

Also, with the size of the unit, I anticipated stability issues. Which we are having. Just a slight side to side sway upon movement. I have the X-chock but it did not eliminate the issue. I was considering the Bal lock arm stabilizer or the Eliminator. I would rather get the Bal because of the price. But would of course go with the best product.

We have a few small issues with the unit after livi g it. Nothing major. Just small issues similar to the issues we first encou tered on our other units. They cannot be totally flawless.

Thank you to all of your input, tech help and opinions I have been reading prior to and after buying this unit. Made researching this unit ver easy to do. Be well and thank you for any help you can offer!

[Festus2]

Shogunles -

You may have been surprised that your unit did not come with a toilet paper holder but you shouldn't have been --none of them do. Don't feel bad - Keystone did not leave you out of the loop! It seems that people prefer to buy a certain type and mount it wherever they think best. "Freedom of choice"???

Two other stabilizers which have received good reviews here are the Steadyfast and JT Strongarms. You might want to check those out.

[GaryWT]

Welcome and congrats fellow 31bhpr owner. Yes no to holder, we bought a free standing one. We have camped all season without extra stableizers but started to look and buy this weekend. Bought one that goes under the frame by the door and will pick up one for the rear. It helped so we shall see.

[mom2budnbug]

Our Bullet came with one, but nothing to attach it with. We just opted for a basket.

[Kristi]

We also use a basket for the TP. We have 2 sets of BAL stabilizer bars and they have helped with the wiggle on our passport.


Sent from my iPad

[Shogunles]

Thank you for all of the information. Festus, I figured that they would not leave it out. That is why I asked before going into the dealer with my short list. Thank you for your help.

Kristi, so the Bal stabilizer seems to have worked out for you it seems. Did it stop all of the wiggle or just make it less noticeable? And did you just install the 2 it came with on the rear or from of the unit or buy 2 stabilizers and install them all around?

So I guess the towel bar is with the to holder LOL! There is a first time for everything.
Along with that, I would also assume that Keystone does not install a bypass on the hot water heater and not forgot my unit LOL! This is the highest priced travel trailer we have ever purchased. The other ones I have owned all had a bypass and a winterization kit on the water pump. These items are easy enough to install myself. It is just the point of the matter. I guess they are keeping production costs lower. Still, it does not change my opinion about the unit. Thanks you all for your help and for listening. Be well!

[Festus2]

Shogunles -

Guess what? You're right again. No bypass kit supplied. :D

[GaryWT]

I have not looked at the pump or water tank yet as I have not wanted to remove the panels. Not sure what I will find but from what I read they use a one knob bypass so it is different than the norm. We shall see in a few weeks.

[zenbuck]

Solved the bathrooms issues with a TP holder that hangs on the cabinet door, added a slip on plastic double hook at the top of the medicine cabinet to hang a towel and or the DW's hairdryer, added a self stick towel ring to the right of the mirror, and added a 6 hook hanger over the bathroom door....

Seems to cover all of the needs...

[Kristi]

Shogunles-

We bought 2 sets of stabilizers. They come with 2 bars in each set, we put 2 in front & 2 in back. I don't think anything will stop all the wiggle, but better chocks (we started with the cheapo plastic ones & upgraded to x chocks) & the stabilizer bars made a huge difference.

[JRTJH]

Solved the bathrooms issues with a TP holder that hangs on the cabinet door, added a slip on plastic double hook at the top of the medicine cabinet to hang a towel and or the DW's hairdryer, added a self stick towel ring to the right of the mirror, and added a 6 hook hanger over the bathroom door....
Seems to cover all of the needs...

Be careful hanging a lot of weight off the bathroom door. The hinges are not very strong and we have had members report that their door facing separated from the frame because of weight from hangers such as you describe.

[zenbuck]

Be careful hanging a lot of weight off the bathroom door. The hinges are not very strong and we have had members report that their door facing separated from the frame because of weight from hangers such as you describe.

Wow.. Usually a towel or two hangs from them.. Have to keep it lightweight....thanks......

[JRTJH]

6 hooks with 6 wet towels can way a heck of a lot. I'm not sure I'd want that on my "fiberboard" doors at home, much less in the trailer with those lightweight glued together doors :)

[Shogunles]

Gary... What I got from other members and looking at my water heater is that you must add the bypass kit. Cheap and easy to do. Just wish it was already there for the price we paid. No worries.


Kristi... Thanks for the input. I am going to start with one kit(2 stabilizers) and see how it goes. I already have the X Chocks which already stopped the front to rear shaking.

Thank you for the advice on the to holders and towel bars. Those doors as stated cannot support much weight. So we will keep the weight to a minimum. I think I am going to screw a to holder under the GCFI on the vanity using a small nailer board. Or just go with a free standing one.

With all of the luxury upgrades on this unit compared to the other units we owned, we are just surprised that there was not a winterization kit on the pump or a bypass on the water heater. They really are not big money upgrades for Keystone to add and easy enough to do. And for myself to do.

Thank you for all of you informative posts.

[zenbuck]

Found these 2 helpful vids for winterization tips... One is a Bullet Premier...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZshRDDVc9o&feature=share&list=FLTCYoHqTcRqwW0qiHk07RPw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkiToSzzuII&feature=share&list=FLTCYoHqTcRqwW0qiHk07RPw

[JRTJH]

Another good source is the Keystone RV website. On the "customer service" home page, there is a series of videos. The second one is "winterizing your RV" some good "generic" information there.

http://www.keystonerv.com/customer-service

[audio1der]

Welcome to the family!
FWIW we keep only the 2 kids' towels on an over-the-door style towel hanger, and feel very comfortable with the weight.
I'm paying for our 2nd, and last, winterizing at the dealer tonight; he's showing me how to do it as he goes.

[Shogunles]

Thanks for the welcome and the info. I always winterize all my previous TT myself. I cannot see spending $140 to do a half hour's work. Similar to replacing the in cabin filter in my vehicle. $20 for the filter and 10 minutes labor. Although the dealer would be more than happy to do it for $108. Rip off.

I was just surprised to see that there was not a winterization kit on the water pump or a bypass on the water heater after spending as much as we did on the unit. Being super anal, I usually blow out the lines and then add antifreeze. I know overkill. Just added insurance.

One question I have regarding the black water rinse or clean out on the unit. This is new to me. Do you usually blow this out? This is the first time using this appliance and what a great application it is! On my previous TT I used the Flush King. Which did the job and was the only appliance available to me. Just took a long time to use and it never got the tank as clean as it does now.

Thank you everyone for all of your help.

[CHIEF MK]

Hey Shogunles, I recognized your user name from Titan talk. Welcome. I'm Dasmoeturhead in TT. You just got a new Bullet? Awesome.

The wife and I just bought a new 2014 Passport Ultra Lite Elite 23rb. First time owners of an RV. We are loving it. Just got back from a shakedown cruise to Fish Lake Oregon. It was great the Titan pulls hard. There is this one hill that is 10 miles long with a 5% grade. The Titan pulled the TT with no problems.

Anyway I just seen your name and wanted to say hey.

Tom

[JRTJH]

Thanks for the welcome and the info. I always winterize all my previous TT myself. I cannot see spending $140 to do a half hour's work. Similar to replacing the in cabin filter in my vehicle. $20 for the filter and 10 minutes labor. Although the dealer would be more than happy to do it for $108. Rip off.

I was just surprised to see that there was not a winterization kit on the water pump or a bypass on the water heater after spending as much as we did on the unit. Being super anal, I usually blow out the lines and then add antifreeze. I know overkill. Just added insurance.

One question I have regarding the black water rinse or clean out on the unit. This is new to me. Do you usually blow this out? This is the first time using this appliance and what a great application it is! On my previous TT I used the Flush King. Which did the job and was the only appliance available to me. Just took a long time to use and it never got the tank as clean as it does now.

Thank you everyone for all of your help.

Many people blow it out, others use a hand pump and pump RV antifreeze into the line until they hear it in the black tank. Personally, I blow it out, then go under the sink and remove the antisiphon valve and store it with some other things we keep in the garage through the winter. That way, I know the valve won't freeze (unless the house freezes, that is).

[Shogunles]

Many people blow it out, others use a hand pump and pump RV antifreeze into the line until they hear it in the black tank. Personally, I blow it out, then go under the sink and remove the antisiphon valve and store it with some other things we keep in the garage through the winter. That way, I know the valve won't freeze (unless the house freezes, that is).

Thank you. Again this is all new to me. Where exactly is the anti siphon hose and what is it connected to? Would it be in the manuals?

[JRTJH]

The anti-siphon valve is a part of the black tank flush system. It us usually connected to the PEX tubing under the sink. Its purpose is to prevent backflow from the black tank into the water supply while flushing the black tank.

This is what it looks like to help you locate it. Many are under the vanity, some behind the shower wall. It's the part that "hummmmmmms" when you use the black tank flush.

It is "too fragile" and is the "weak link" in the black flush system. Some people have replaced it with a brass anti-siphon valve with good results. So far, I haven't had problems. Thinking pro-actively, I guess I should replace it before I have a flooded vanity, but keep forgetting to check for a suitable valve when I'm at Lowes. Oh, did I mention: I HATE PLUMBING !!! LOL

[Shogunles]

The anti-siphon valve is a part of the black tank flush system. It us usually connected to the PEX tubing under the sink. Its purpose is to prevent backflow from the black tank into the water supply while flushing the black tank.

This is what it looks like to help you locate it. Many are under the vanity, some behind the shower wall. It's the part that "hummmmmmms" when you use the black tank flush.

It is "too fragile" and is the "weak link" in the black flush system. Some people have replaced it with a brass anti-siphon valve with good results. So far, I haven't had problems. Thinking pro-actively, I guess I should replace it before I have a flooded vanity, but keep forgetting to check for a suitable valve when I'm at Lowes. Oh, did I mention: I HATE PLUMBING !!! LOL

Not my strongest subject either! So you actually remove the black fitting and bypass it with a jumper hose? What kind of fitting would replace that one?

I guess the smart thing to do is to open the water to the flush a little at a time to make sure you do not get a flood. This is one of the issues I have with Keystone. Plastic fittings. How much more would it actually be to use brass fittings!

I would have never have known what that was or where it was located. Thank you for the heads up!

[JRTJH]

No I don't "replace" it with anything. I simply take it off, put it in a box with some other things that we want to protect from freezing (hand soap dispenser, sun screen, hand lotion, etc) and leave the fittings open.

The black tank flush system is nothing more than a fitting on the outside of the RV with tubing running to that anti-siphon valve, then tubing running to the black tank sprayer head. It is NOT connected to the RV fresh water system in any way and is not connected to the gray tanks. Its "sole purpose" is to prevent sewer gas and fluids from "siphoning" back to the garden hose used to spray water into the black tank during flushing. The "danger" is that if sewer fluids were to "siphon" from the black tank, they could conceivably flow into the garden hose and cause contamination or spread of germs that are in the tank to an unsuspecting person who uses the hose for drinking purposes. So, that's the reason for the "double safety" practice of using a separate hose for black tank flushing and not using that hose to fill your fresh water tank or connect to campground water supply.

Most home garden hose faucets have an anti-siphon feature to prevent the effluent from your black tank from entering the house (or campground) water system, but it could enter the hose and cause contamination that way.

So, after all this "windy rubbish" I guess what I'm trying to say is that it does have a purpose (although it probalby wouldn't happen anyway) in the system. And when we remove it, we just leave the fittings open until next year and reinstall the valve as a part of the "de-winterization" process.

As for turning on the water gradually when using the black tank flush, some here have suggested (and I also follow the advice) that you turn on your water supply very slowly when using the black tank flush. There is a valve in there that snaps open when water is turned on. If you turn it on rapidly, the valve snaps open hard, turn it on slowly and the valve snaps open softly. The easier you "snap" that valve, the longer it will last before it snaps (breaks) the seat it's in and starts leaking.....

Hope that helps a little :)

[Shogunles]

No I don't "replace" it with anything. I simply take it off, put it in a box with some other things that we want to protect from freezing (hand soap dispenser, sun screen, hand lotion, etc) and leave the fittings open.

The black tank flush system is nothing more than a fitting on the outside of the RV with tubing running to that anti-siphon valve, then tubing running to the black tank sprayer head. It is NOT connected to the RV fresh water system in any way and is not connected to the gray tanks. Its "sole purpose" is to prevent sewer gas and fluids from "siphoning" back to the garden hose used to spray water into the black tank during flushing. The "danger" is that if sewer fluids were to "siphon" from the black tank, they could conceivably flow into the garden hose and cause contamination or spread of germs that are in the tank to an unsuspecting person who uses the hose for drinking purposes. So, that's the reason for the "double safety" practice of using a separate hose for black tank flushing and not using that hose to fill your fresh water tank or connect to campground water supply.

Most home garden hose faucets have an anti-siphon feature to prevent the effluent from your black tank from entering the house (or campground) water system, but it could enter the hose and cause contamination that way.

So, after all this "windy rubbish" I guess what I'm trying to say is that it does have a purpose (although it probalby wouldn't happen anyway) in the system. And when we remove it, we just leave the fittings open until next year and reinstall the valve as a part of the "de-winterization" process.

As for turning on the water gradually when using the black tank flush, some here have suggested (and I also follow the advice) that you turn on your water supply very slowly when using the black tank flush. There is a valve in there that snaps open when water is turned on. If you turn it on rapidly, the valve snaps open hard, turn it on slowly and the valve snaps open softly. The easier you "snap" that valve, the longer it will last before it snaps (breaks) the seat it's in and starts leaking.....

Hope that helps a little :)

Yes I understand now. I am not ignorant lol, rest assured. Since you opened my eyes to this I have read a number of forums on this. And found my fitting under the bathroom sink. Forgive me if you already answered this, I just want to be clear with all of this. So instead of using a pump to pump anti freeze into the black flush fitting, you just simply remove the anti siphon fitting so it does not freeze, correct?

I remember a few years ago, I had to install something similar on my auto lawn sprinklers as per code. It was not a big deal to do and as you said the dirty water contaminating the fresh water would probably never happen. But why not be sure.

I really do appreciate all of the help. I apologize if I am being repeat active. However, sometimes it is hard to get the picture someone is drawing when typing on a forum. Thank you for your patience, truly.

[JRTJH]

I first use an air compressor and a garden hose/compressor adapter to blow out as much of the water as possible, then I remove and store the anti-siphon valve. Other than that, I don't do anything to the black tank flush system.

[alien_scones]

Be careful hanging a lot of weight off the bathroom door.


as previously mentioned, too much weight will break your door:

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=374&pictureid=2177


see http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13266

[Shogunles]

I first use an air compressor and a garden hose/compressor adapter to blow out as much of the water as possible, then I remove and store the anti-siphon valve. Other than that, I don't do anything to the black tank flush system.

Obviously you need to have the black tank valve open to blow it out.

[Shogunles]

as previously mentioned, too much weight will break your door:

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=374&pictureid=2177


see http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13266

Yikes! Hope that was not your door! Those doors are nothing more than cardboard.

[JRTJH]

Obviously you need to have the black tank valve open to blow it out.

Obviously ? Yes, obviously....... Some things are simply "understood" to be accomplished.... sort of like: Walk to the side of the RV, Locate the Black Tank Flush fitting..... etc.

[jimmydee]

Just bought a 2014 keystone Springdale 267 and guess what we received both TP holder and towel holder we had to put them up and they were not great ones but hey they work

[Shogunles]

At least they gave them to you. You would think for $31k plus they would at least throw them in right LOL! Sometimes to see certain issues you need to live in it. My fault for assuming it had them and winter kit on the pump and water heater bypass. Never assume as they say! Be well!

[Shogunles]

Obviously ? Yes, obviously....... Some things are simply "understood" to be accomplished.... sort of like: Walk to the side of the RV, Locate the Black Tank Flush fitting..... etc.

Just making conversation Friend. And you are correct. Apologies if I pushed your buttons. Wasn't my intent. I appreciate your help with this. Thank you and Be well!

[GaryWT]

Gary... What I got from other members and looking at my water heater is that you must add the bypass kit. Cheap and easy to do. Just wish it was already there for the price we paid. No worries.


Kristi... Thanks for the input. I am going to start with one kit(2 stabilizers) and see how it goes. I already have the X Chocks which already stopped the front to rear shaking.

Thank you for the advice on the to holders and towel bars. Those doors as stated cannot support much weight. So we will keep the weight to a minimum. I think I am going to screw a to holder under the GCFI on the vanity using a small nailer board. Or just go with a free standing one.

With all of the luxury upgrades on this unit compared to the other units we owned, we are just surprised that there was not a winterization kit on the pump or a bypass on the water heater. They really are not big money upgrades for Keystone to add and easy enough to do. And for myself to do.

Thank you for all of you informative posts.

Winterized today did not have to add the bypass kit. As I first thought the one knob is all you need. Turned the knob and the top must have a check valve or something. No air or antifreeze entered tank so that was all that was needed. Had a kit to add to the pump but the pump is different so had to rig something to through the pump. Now I have 2 kits that I cannot use and too far from the store to return them, oh well.