WDH and truck height

[Andymon]

Before I hooked up the WDH, I measured the truck height. Ground to top of front fender was 34 3/4" and the rear was 38.

Hooked up the WDH and the measurement was 35" rear and 35 1/2 front.

Sound ok?

Drove a few miles and all seemed fine.

[Javi]

not so much.. I'd want the front to equal the before number and would adjust the tilt of the hitch and or the chains if possible to get there. Remember most hitches want the bars parallel to the frame and at least 5 links below the hook.

The rear don't really matter much.

P.S. I'd want the hitch adjusted so that the front of the trailer had a downward rake when hitched.

[Andymon]

not so much.. I'd want the front to equal the before number and would adjust the tilt of the hitch and or the chains if possible to get there. Remember most hitches want the bars parallel to the frame and at least 5 links below the hook.

The rear don't really matter much.

P.S. I'd want the hitch adjusted so that the front of the trailer had a downward rake when hitched.

the ball is about 6 degree back and the bars are almost parallel and on the 6 link as there are 7 links. If anything, the bars may be slightly downward so perhaps I should go to the 5th link?

thanks for the reply.

[Javi]

the ball is about 6 degree back and the bars are almost parallel and on the 6 link as there are 7 links. If anything, the bars may be slightly downward so perhaps I should go to the 5th link?

thanks for the reply.
Yes and re-measure the front.

[Andymon]

Will do and thanks!!

[Ken / Claudia]

The dealer set me up with the resse pro WD hitch system. I had 2 hanging links. I read thru the instructions after several trips and realized I was not doing the hook up correctly. It says to hitch up and than lower the jack to raise the coupled vehicles, than put the bars on. I than got 3 links hanging loose.
I checked both ways on a scale. I have 300 lbs lighter front axle at 2 links, 200lbs lighter on 3. Both ways truck handles like normal. I cannot get the front axle wt. any better. I asked the dealer about the wt.s I found and he said with the 1 ton that is fine. I never checked the distance change in inchs. I guess maybe 2 lower on rear, front I do not see a change when trailer is hooked up.

[Andymon]

The dealer set me up with the resse pro WD hitch system. I had 2 hanging links. I read thru the instructions after several trips and realized I was not doing the hook up correctly. It says to hitch up and than lower the jack to raise the coupled vehicles, than put the bars on. I than got 3 links hanging loose.
I checked both ways on a scale. I have 300 lbs lighter front axle at 2 links, 200lbs lighter on 3. Both ways truck handles like normal. I cannot get the front axle wt. any better. I asked the dealer about the wt.s I found and he said with the 1 ton that is fine. I never checked the distance change in inchs. I guess maybe 2 lower on rear, front I do not see a change when trailer is hooked up.

I thought about going with three links hanging but I was thinking I had the trailer and the truck up too high when I hooked up...guess not.

[Ken / Claudia]

I am not sure if I could SEE any difference between 2 or 3 links. Trailer looks level, hitch wt. was around 900lbs each time. I tried 4 links and the bars were bending. (I do not know how many links my bars have and I am speaking about links that are not used in the tension) Try each at a scale and see if it makes any difference to the wt. on the front axle. I never noted any difference in braking, steering etc. with trailer, with the links in either slot. My opinion is 300lbs lighter front axle on that truck makes no difference.

[Hansel]

Your truck is too high in the front, and sitting too low in the rear. You need to adjust the hitch head so that the front stays almost the same, and the back sitting down about an 1 1/2" over the unloaded height. Also you want the camper slightly nose down then take it to the CAT scales and see how your weight is on each axle.

[RGene7001]

It's same problem all over again, just different post. Transferring weight over very long frame requires EXTREME amount of tension applied around the pivot point and right weight distribution is not possible. There may be only 2 causes:
1. Tension bars are too weak; I don't care what is thair rating, I would like to have the strongest for such long truck. I use 1000 lb for approximately 600 lb of hitch weight.
2. There is flex in the hitch receiver, they are all full of cr@p, even in full frame vehicles. Long frame can flex as well but I hope this is not the case.
What you should do? It depends. Generally, a lot of landscapers and other contractors use no weight distribution with HD trucks but they usually don't have that much sidewall. See how it performs on busy highway, during windy weather and so on. Maximize your sway control; hopefully it will work

[Javi]

There need to be a minimum of 5 chain links between the hook and the bar for the system to function properly. The bars should be parallel to the trailer frame and the front wheel well height should be the same hitched and unhitched.

If this cannot be achieved with the way the hitch is setup now, then you need to either increase/decrease the tilt of the head or if that doesn't work look into heavier bars. It isn't uncommon for dealers to sell you the wrong weight range bars.

[Hansel]

It's same problem all over again, just different post. Transferring weight over very long frame requires EXTREME amount of tension applied around the pivot point and right weight distribution is not possible. There may be only 2 causes:
1. Tension bars are too weak; I don't care what is thair rating, I would like to have the strongest for such long truck. I use 1000 lb for approximately 600 lb of hitch weight.
2. There is flex in the hitch receiver, they are all full of cr@p, even in full frame vehicles. Long frame can flex as well but I hope this is not the case.
What you should do? It depends. Generally, a lot of landscapers and other contractors use no weight distribution with HD trucks but they usually don't have that much sidewall. See how it performs on busy highway, during windy weather and so on. Maximize your sway control; hopefully it will work

Can you explain your comments, I'm confused:confused:

Flex in the reciever hitch "they are all full of cr@p"?? Who is full of cr@p??

I've never heard anyone even talk about a truck with a long frame, taking that into account for because it's flexing. I don't see contractors or lawn guys using WD because the loads they carry probably vary too much, too mess with it.

[Andymon]

There need to be a minimum of 5 chain links between the hook and the bar for the system to function properly. The bars should be parallel to the trailer frame and the front wheel well height should be the same hitched and unhitched.

If this cannot be achieved with the way the hitch is setup now, then you need to either increase/decrease the tilt of the head or if that doesn't work look into heavier bars. It isn't uncommon for dealers to sell you the wrong weight range bars.

I bought the Eaz-Lift 1400 lbs set up. I'll look into the tilt of the ball.

[RGene7001]

http://physics.weber.edu/carroll/archimedes/lever.htm
The law of lever is crucial in understanding weight distribution as well as other aspects of towing. If you want to lift 100 lb on the top of 10 foot lever you have to apply 1000 lb 1 feet away from the fulcrum; however, if you got 20 feet long lever you have to apply 2000 lb at the same point. The TV frame is the lever and tension bar apply pressure just a few inches away from the ball ( fulcrum). Towbar is exposed to many ton of pressure but is very strong and never a problem.
Hitch receiver is more away but it still handles substantial loads and conducts force to TV frame through torsion. It's made of softer steel and that makes it vulnerable to flex. I may be critical to truck manufacturers because their ratings may be frivolous, testing procedures are not explained, not transparent and performance may be suboptimal even if you are following their recommendations. Generally they will resist innovation, extra costs and disruption of the technological process just to satisfy small group of customers ( RV ers). They will use the cheapest standard parts. A hitch receiver with 1500 lb of rating probably will not fall apart under the load but there is no guarantee that it will provide effective weight transfer. Reinforcement of the receiver involves extension of the square tube forward to the frame crossbar do you are no longer dependent from torsion only, but no manufacturer will ever do it.
Frame can get weakened by 14 years of use and exposure to elements; steel does get tired- physically, not in emotional sense

[Hansel]

http://physics.weber.edu/carroll/archimedes/lever.htm
The law of lever is crucial in understanding weight distribution as well as other aspects of towing. If you want to lift 100 lb on the top of 10 foot lever you have to apply 1000 lb 1 feet away from the fulcrum; however, if you got 20 feet long lever you have to apply 2000 lb at the same point. The TV frame is the lever and tension bar apply pressure just a few inches away from the ball ( fulcrum). Towbar is exposed to many ton of pressure but is very strong and never a problem.
Hitch receiver is more away but it still handles substantial loads and conducts force to TV frame through torsion. It's made of softer steel and that makes it vulnerable to flex. I may be critical to truck manufacturers because their ratings may be frivolous, testing procedures are not explained, not transparent and performance may be suboptimal even if you are following their recommendations. Generally they will resist innovation, extra costs and disruption of the technological process just to satisfy small group of customers ( RV ers). They will use the cheapest standard parts. A hitch receiver with 1500 lb of rating probably will not fall apart under the load but there is no guarantee that it will provide effective weight transfer. Reinforcement of the receiver involves extension of the square tube forward to the frame crossbar do you are no longer dependent from torsion only, but no manufacturer will ever do it.
Frame can get weakened by 14 years of use and exposure to elements; steel does get tired- physically, not in emotional sense

Gotcha, but he is still dealing with a incorrectly set up hitch that needs more adjusting to achieve the right truck ride heigh.

[B&T]

Dealer set up my WDH and had it set to 5 links but I checked and found my TV front end loading was too great. I tried 6 links but it did not give me enough weight transfer to the TV front wheels. Ended up using 5-1/2 links and this turned out to give me the correct TV front end loading.

[Javi]

Just thinkin'

Y'all do know you're supposed to adjust the hitch with the truck and trailer loaded as you will travel. If not you didn't really get it right. :D

[B&T]

Just thinkin'

Y'all do know you're supposed to adjust the hitch with the truck and trailer loaded as you will travel. If not you didn't really get it right. :D

Yes, that's just common sense :)

[Bob Landry]

Does everyone understand that the purpose of WD is to return the weight to the front end that is removed when a trailer is hitched? It's not to level the truck, make it "look right", or to make it "drive right", or actually to have anything to do with the rear height, No where in any hitch instruction will you see any reference to rear squat of the TV.

The front end height is also specified in the truck manual.. The manual for the new trucks specifies to split the two measurements with the WD. I'm not sure about the older trucks.
According to the OP, he was very close to having the correct fender height using five links under tension and the bars parallel to the tongue and could probably dial it in with the hitch head tilt without going to more chain tension. If it is not possible to get more transfer with the tilt using his current bars, then the next size bars would be appropriate.

As far as bar weight/rating, bigger is not always better. The bars should be sized to the next size above the tongue weight of the trailer.

[Andymon]

Does everyone understand that the purpose of WD is to return the weight to the front end that is removed when a trailer is hitched? It's not to level the truck, make it "look right", or to make it "drive right", or actually to have anything to do with the rear height, No where in any hitch instruction will you see any reference to rear squat of the TV.

The front end height is also specified in the truck manual.. The manual for the new trucks specifies to split the two measurements with the WD. I'm not sure about the older trucks.
According to the OP, he was very close to having the correct fender height using five links under tension and the bars parallel to the tongue and could probably dial it in with the hitch head tilt without going to more chain tension. If it is not possible to get more transfer with the tilt using his current bars, then the next size bars would be appropriate.

As far as bar weight/rating, bigger is not always better. The bars should be sized to the next size above the tongue weight of the trailer.

I'm going out to the TT on Sunday and will put the chains on link 5 and retake measurements. I don't have a torque wrench big enough or an impact wrench to loosen the bolts so may just bring the hitch to work and let the machine shop guy undo the bolts so I can slightly adjust the ball.

thanks for all the replies!!