Snapped lug bolts

[bartbill]

Sure hope the pics come through. This is a dangerous condition. 2012 Sprinter with 2500 miles on it. All six lugs snapped - could of killed someone when the tire came off! The folks I bought it from said' "oh yeah, you should torque the bolts every 500 miles. Really, That's the best engineering Keystone can come up with with such a potentially catastrophic event.

[Ken / Claudia]

Was it a dealer you mention or private sale. Any idea why they snapped, was it during travel or tire change etc. I have some reasons they could snap off but, tell us more.

[TandE]

I would like to know more also. I know when I check torque after they have been set before, I go ten percent less than the desired torque and watch to see if they move. If they do I torque them to the desired point.

[Bob Landry]

I had a Ford Ranger that my tire dealer was replacing snapped lugs on every time I went in for service. I was unable to figure out what was happening until I watched his guy put my wheels on. He was putting the lug nut in the air wrench and then starting the nut on the threads by pulling the trigger. The nut would cross thread and he would continue putting it on. When I saw that, I made the manager go back and pull all of my service invoices and reimburse me for all of the "bad" lugs he had replaced. He wasn't very happy, but he was more unhappy when I told him I wouldn't be back.
One thing I really like about Discount Tire is that they use the air gun to get the torque close then finish by hand.
Lug nut torque is not rocket science and for all 6 to snap, someone had to do something to stress those lugs. If this happened after a tire or brake service, I would be having that shop replace all of the lugs on every wheel.. And tighten the correct way.

[jsmith948]

Have to agree with the previous replies. We need more info. such as what type of wheel, were they recently removed, were they torgued and by whom?
I don't think this will likely be Keystone's fault.

[SAABDOCTOR]

I Have to agree with Bob. Lug nuts don't just snap or our wheels would be all over the highway and we would not need tire covers.Air guns are great for removing lug nuts. start them by hand then an air gun with a torque stick( so they are not over torqued) and final torque with a torque wrench. period! I thinks your service dept fubar'd them.:banghead:

[bartbill]

Thanks much for your comments. This is a 29' Copper Canyon bought new in 2012. Probably has 3k miles on it. We "lost" the wheel about 4 miles west of Durango CO. Didn't know it until we were in town. Went back looking for the wheel but it was picked up ( saw the tire tracks of who ever got it). The repair is a simple bolt replace but I'm now running on the spare. Wheels are Aluminum.

This axle has the grease zert plug in the grease cap and I lubed it once with three or four pumps of grease about a month earlier. Wheels have never been off since it left the dealership. Tires are wearing evenly and the unit pulls well. Actually thought the frame and axles were the best part of the unit.

But here is the issue; Torquing the lug bolts every 500 miles!
I talked to a RV dealership service manager here on the front range when I got back about this. That is the reason for the quoted statement in my earlier post. He said Aluminum wheels are known to cause bolts to snap. if not frequently checked. He said it posted somewhere but not sure where (about the 500 mile check). I look forward to tracking milage to maintain the wheels - especially on long hauls, like an Alaska trip. I just think Keystone could do better.

Regards

[hankpage]

These axles and wheels are not made by Keystone and are used by many other manufacturers. Your owners manual (as useless as it may be) clearly states the need for torquing wheels. Trailer wheels are not like automobile wheels and are subject to very severe twisting and side loads. Unlike on your car or truck if a trailer wheel comes loose you may not feel it until it is too late. (as you have found out) Thus the NEED to inspect and re-torque regularly. I do mine before each trip and at my first fuel stop along with air pressure and tire and hub temps. My '07 Cougar even came with a DVD on proper torque of wheels. Even auto wheels should be re-torqued about 25-50mi. after being mounted and is the owners responsibility. JM2¢, Hank

[JRTJH]

Bartbill,

I am sorry you're having the issues with lug nut/wheel separation, but it's a common issue with all trailers and any of the trailer manufacturers (from RV's to cargo trailers) has a BIG warning in their owner's manual that tells the owner to check lug nuts for tightness after 50 miles of towing (when wheels are changed/new) and daily before towing. When I bought my Gatormade cargo trailer, there were yellow decals on the fenders at all 4 wheels that cautioned to check lug nut torque frequently.

On each side of my Cougar is a warning sticker (over the wheel wells) that states:

WARNING: Loose lug nuts can cause wheel separation and damage. Check lug nut torque on the first trip at 10/25/50 miles, check lug nut torque before every trip, check lug nut torque after winter storage, check lug nut torque after excessive braking.

Your Keystone owner's manual has the following in the "IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION" section at the beginning of the manual:

"Lug Nut Torquing
Being sure wheel mounting nuts (lug nuts) on trailer wheels are tight and properly torqued is an important responsibility that trailer owners and users need to be familiar with and practice. Inadequate and/or inappropriate wheel nut torque (tightness) is a major reason that lug nuts loosen in service. Loose lug nuts can rapidly lead to a wheel separation with potentially serious safety consequences. Please see Chapter 4 for more information."

As I said in the beginning, I'm sorry for your loss, however, it appears that your issue may well have been caused or made worse by not checking the lug nuts as recommended by the manuracturer.

Almost all trailer wheels use lug nuts with "flat shoulders" which do not center the wheel on the axle and rely on torque to keep the wheel from shifting (or rotating on the spindle) which applies a "shear or cutting force" against the lugs. The only way to minimize that damaging force is through proper torque on all the lug nuts. Most of us check tightness on lug nuts regularly, many of us carry a torque wrench with us when we travel. I check my tire pressures and lug nuts every morning before towing. Your unfortunate incident is an example of just how important these checks are to safe towing of heavy RV's.

[Ken / Claudia]

Get a torque wrench, $20 or so. Those lugs were not torqued correctly, got loose, wheel lug holes grow bigger as it rotates until they snap off and the wheel leaves the RV. Seen it enough. Even just had a close friend that did that on a motorhome rear duals last winter. It cost close to 4,000 for the repair and replacement. He thought he had enough torque, with a star lug wrench. He got about 400 miles before he saw the wheel pass him on a highway. If that wheel/tire hit a small car or motorcycle rider. I seen that to.

[SAABDOCTOR]

A torque wrench is cheap at sears or auto parts store. use it before every trip. then recheck after 100-200 miles. then i am good for the rest of the trip. I have aluminum wheels and have never had an issue with a lug with this procedure. I would check the rest of your wheels if they have loose nuts look at the hole if it is enlarged it's time to replace them. then fallow the recomende procedure for wheel replacement. do them every 50 miles. mine stayed tight after 400 miles the first time out when new. glad your ok.;)

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Lots of folks think that simply re-checking the lug torque is
done by placing the socket and torque wrench on the nuts and
lean on it till it clicks, or however their TW works.... If it was over
torqued before they'll never know. Proper method is to loosen the
nuts a quarter to a half turn then apply the torque wrench to it until
you get the proper indication. Using the correct sequence of course.
The last sentence or 2 is the good part;
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107

hankaye

[Terrydactile]

Howdy All;

Lots of folks think that simply re-checking the lug torque is
done by placing the socket and torque wrench on the nuts and
lean on it till it clicks, or however their TW works.... If it was over
torqued before they'll never know. Proper method is to loosen the
nuts a quarter to a half turn then apply the torque wrench to it until
you get the proper indication. Using the correct sequence of course.
The last sentence or 2 is the good part;
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107

hankaye

Correct, but I would venture to say that most do not do this and may never know someone over torqued their lugs. Over torqued lugs should be replaced.

[Javi]

This is the reason I will never again own aluminum wheels. I've had no problem with the set currently on my Passport, but I am contentious about checking the torque before towing. However it is really a PITA and not necessary with steel wheels and tapered lug nuts.

[JRTJH]

This is the reason I will never again own aluminum wheels. I've had no problem with the set currently on my Passport, but I am contentious about checking the torque before towing. However it is really a PITA and not necessary with steel wheels and tapered lug nuts.

Javi,

It is still necessary to check for proper torque and proper inflation of tires even with steel wheels. There may be less potential for steel wheels with tapered lug nuts to loosen, but it remains prudent (and by the owner's manual, necessary) to check the lug nuts for proper torque when first installed or changed, after 50 miles and daily before use with all wheels, including steel wheels.

There is no difference stated in the owner's manual. The requirement is the same whether using aluminum or steel wheels.

[Javi]

Javi,

It is still necessary to check for proper torque and proper inflation of tires even with steel wheels. There may be less potential for steel wheels with tapered lug nuts to loosen, but it remains prudent (and by the owner's manual, necessary) to check the lug nuts for proper torque when first installed or changed, after 50 miles and daily before use with all wheels, including steel wheels.

There is no difference stated in the owner's manual. The requirement is the same whether using aluminum or steel wheels.

Be that as it may... I've towed several 100K miles with heavy trailers using steel wheels and have yet to find a loose lug nut on a steel wheel that was properly torqued from the beginning. I cannot say that about aluminum wheels even on a car or truck... In fact I've seen the lug nuts on an aluminum wheel loosen while the vehicle sat over the winter.
I will never own another trailer or pickup with aluminum wheels and would be changing the set I currently own if the DW wasn't wanting to buy a new trailer.

[SAABDOCTOR]

NEVER HAD AN ISSUE WITH ANY OF THE 16 ALUMINUM WHEELS on any of my trailers cars trucks golf cart I'm going out to buy a lottery ticket!:D

[JRTJH]

Be that as it may... I've towed several 100K miles with heavy trailers using steel wheels and have yet to find a loose lug nut on a steel wheel that was properly torqued from the beginning. I cannot say that about aluminum wheels even on a car or truck... In fact I've seen the lug nuts on an aluminum wheel loosen while the vehicle sat over the winter.
I will never own another trailer or pickup with aluminum wheels and would be changing the set I currently own if the DW wasn't wanting to buy a new trailer.

I'm sure you're happy that you have had such great success with steel wheels. I will agree with you that they seem to be more "reliable" in that they don't seem to experience loose lug nuts as readily as aluminum wheels, however the owner's manual for Keystone (and manuals from all other RV manufacturers I've seen) specifically require ALL lug nuts to be retorqued at specific intervals. There is no disticntion as to the type of wheel used on the RV.

To lead the membership to believe that lug nuts on steel wheels "don't come loose" and therefore "don't require checking torque" could give some members who own RV's with steel wheels a false sense of security and lead them to believe that they don't need to check torque on their lug nuts. That's not the situation at all. Every lug nut on every RV has the potential to work loose and could cause a wheel separation. It's the same on truck/car wheels and essentially the same requirement to check torque on the lug nuts is included in vehicle owner's manuals as well. Ford requires that lug nuts on the F250 be retorqued at 100 miles after any wheel disturbance on single rear wheel vehicles and at 100 miles and again at 500 miles on all dual rear wheel vehicles.

To say, "I've never had a lug nut come loose in several 100K miles" doesn't mean that you won't walk out and find 32 loose lug nuts today. Safety doesn't just happen, being vigilant and remembering to do the recommended safety checks will help keep all of us "out of trouble" Checking lug nuts on steel and aluminum wheels is a wise habit to have. Following manufacturers safety requirements is also prudent.

[Jim W]

Howdy All;

Lots of folks think that simply re-checking the lug torque is
done by placing the socket and torque wrench on the nuts and
lean on it till it clicks, or however their TW works.... If it was over
torqued before they'll never know. Proper method is to loosen the
nuts a quarter to a half turn then apply the torque wrench to it until
you get the proper indication. Using the correct sequence of course.
The last sentence or 2 is the good part;
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107

hankaye

I guess I am in a different camp when checking my lug nuts on the trailer.

First this is done every trip and every day that we set out to tow the trailer or night before. I do not loosen the nuts since I use static torque to check them not the dynamic torque that is used to install the nuts. This was the method we taught the assemblers and mechanics to use at Cat for all fasteners torques.

The lug nuts are installed by me and only I and they are installed by using hand tools only. When they are installed I bring them up to 50% torque first in a star pattern. Then they are finally torque to their correct value in the same star pattern. I have never had a wheel stud fail on me with this method or a loose wheel nut on my trailer rims.

Jim

[SAABDOCTOR]

Good words Jim the only thing i do different is after starting the nuts by hand I run them up with an air gun and a 60lb torque stick. then I step torque like you do. and I am the only one that puts the wheel on. after that they get checked before every trip if multi day the every day before i head out. also John good advice about not checking steel wheels.My small utillity trailer that i tow my tractor or golf cart with has steel wheels 8 inch diameter, they are the ones that always loosten a bit after use. ;) pays to all ways check! Murphy waits around the corner:banghead:

[Ken / Claudia]

In March I did the spring check up on the boat and rotated the wheels (4). It sat for several days than I gased it up and rechecked the wheels. 1st time I found a nut mabybe 1/4 turn loose on steel wheels, mine. On the work boat trailers both type of wheels it would happen but, not often. I have had the tire dealer start telling me to bring the vehicles back to check the nuts after rotation for the last couple years. By the way I have met Murphy, he comes around when I am wore out or in a hurry and I don't like him.

[Javi]

I knew that when I posted my distaste for aluminum wheels that it would provoke many to disagree and some to tell me how wrong I am. That's the nature of the internet, everyone is ready to tell you you're wrong.


But in the fifty years since I first became a legally licensed driver I've owned three vehicles with aluminum or more accurately ALLOY wheels.

The first was my '57 Chevy which in 1964 I equipped with American Racing “MAGS”. After nothing but trouble with the lug nuts backing off and other issues I swore that I'd never use a Mag again on the road.


The second time was in 2011 when I let the local Ford dealer talk me into a set on my new F150. His line on those wheels was pretty good and had about the same amount of truth as his line about how the truck would pull my soon to be trailer. Both were less than factual. Based on my past experience I was meticulous with checking the torque and rarely did I find the nuts to spec. Usually at least one had backed off a little and often more than one on the same wheel.


The third time was on the New Passport which the dealer assured me was only available with Alloy wheels. I accepted that and went on with the plan to ditch them when the tires wore out. I have again been very conscientious about checking the torque and in more than twenty trips I've only had one time that at least one of the lug nuts were not below torque specifications before hooking up to the truck.


In those same fifty years I've lost count of how many trailers, trucks, tractors and cars I've owned and driven with steel wheels, but I can count on one hand the times I've found a loose lug nut on a steel wheel.


My new truck has steel wheels and when I buy the new trailer it will either have steel wheels on it or I will find another dealer. I don't mind checking the torque before hooking up for a trip, but I do mind that I nearly always find a few loose nuts when I do. So no more ALLOY wheels for me from now own.

That's my opinion and the reasoning behind that opinion..."bouncey:

[SAABDOCTOR]

AND THAT IS WHY GOD MAKE STEEL AND ALUMINUM WHEELS. KEEPS YOU HAPPY KEEPS OTHERS HAPPY. oops forgot the caps lock again sorry if we keep this up it can turn into my truck is better than yours and so are my wheels!!! how did this start?It's friday and it is time to:party: that's my story and i'm sticking to it!:D

[gearhead]

In my 45 years of ownership I can't recall how many vehicles I owned that had alloy wheels. Couldn't count them all. I also can't recall one issue with loose lug nuts or failed studs. But in a moment of sheer boredom last week, I did check the torque on the lug nuts of the boat trailer. Out of 4 wheels maybe 3 nuts turned less than a flat before they reached torque. Of course all the others could have been over torqued.
But, dang it, I will go check the Cougar, because if I don't it will drive me crazy.
I'll report back...
Y'all don't want a last word indicator on the studs to measure bolt stretch do ya??
just kidding.

[Javi]

AND THAT IS WHY GOD MAKE STEEL AND ALUMINUM WHEELS. KEEPS YOU HAPPY KEEPS OTHERS HAPPY. oops forgot the caps lock again sorry if we keep this up it can turn into my truck is better than yours and so are my wheels!!! how did this start?It's friday and it is time to:party: that's my story and i'm sticking to it!:D
Naw... I'm done with it :D

It's Friday and I have a full bottle of "Buffalo Trace" Kentucky whisky a bin full of ice, a small bottle of soda water and a highball glass waiting on me at the house. Y'all have a good weekend.

[SAABDOCTOR]

Javi that sounds as good as the rum and cokes that are in the chiller as Jimmy Buffet and Allen Jackson said "it's five o'clock somewhere" let the others argue 'bout wheels we'll drink!!!!

[hankpage]

FIVE O'CLOCK???????? I don't care what the song says ..... Why should happy be limited to one hour?????? Cheers http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=251&pictureid=1156 To stay on topic ... torque the steel cap off that bottle or pop the top of that aluminum can and relax. It's Friday.

[SAABDOCTOR]

Hank I was not talking happy hour i am talking all week end hour!!!:cool::cool: 10 min. to go work is done!:banghead: torque wrench is put away. everyone's nuts are tight. Moday will bring more Sorry About Another Breakdown's SAAB's and we can do it all over again

[Jim W]

Hank I was not talking happy hour i am talking all week end hour!!!:cool::cool: 10 min. to go work is done!:banghead: torque wrench is put away. everyone's nuts are tight. Moday will bring more Sorry About Another Breakdown's SAAB's and we can do it all over again

Explain what is work again!!!

I have not worked in four years forgot what that is like, Cat pays me to stay home. Best job I have every had.

Jim W.

[gearhead]

I'm just wondering what Javi is gonna do with that "small bottle of soda water".
I'm stocked up on Makers Mark.
I eyeballed that bottle of Woodford Reserve on the store shelf but....naaa.
Hey Javi: have you tried Shiner Ruby Redbird? Takes a few to get your taste buds acclimated, but once done it's a great summer brew. Kinda Shiner light with grapefruit juice in it. Tastes better than it sounds.

[Javi]

I'm just wondering what Javi is gonna do with that "small bottle of soda water".
I'm stocked up on Makers Mark.
I eyeballed that bottle of Woodford Reserve on the store shelf but....naaa.
Hey Javi: have you tried Shiner Ruby Redbird? Takes a few to get your taste buds acclimated, but once done it's a great summer brew. Kinda Shiner light with grapefruit juice in it. Tastes better than it sounds.

The soda water is for the DW :D

[hankaye]

Jim W, Howdy;

I guess I am in a different camp when checking my lug nuts on the trailer.

First this is done every trip and every day that we set out to tow the trailer or night before. I do not loosen the nuts since I use static torque to check them not the dynamic torque that is used to install the nuts. This was the method we taught the assemblers and mechanics to use at Cat for all fasteners torques.

The lug nuts are installed by me and only I and they are installed by using hand tools only. When they are installed I bring them up to 50% torque first in a star pattern. Then they are finally torque to their correct value in the same star pattern. I have never had a wheel stud fail on me with this method or a loose wheel nut on my trailer rims.

Jim

My experience is on aircraft, both the Navy's and the Coast Guard's. Counting
active duty and as a Contractor about 25 years worth of main rotor blades,
tail rotor Blades, main transmission attach bolts, and the best of all the Jesus
Nut (holds the rotor head to the top of the shaft). Head bolts on 18 cylinder
Radial engines and the 2,500 ft. lbs. (hydraulic torq. wrench) needed to put
the prop hub nut on the old Pratt & Whitney we had on the old C-123B's I
flew in, in the CG. We couldn't do up all the nuts an bolts ourselves so we
had to do it 'after' someone else, and usually while being watched by an
inspector.

hankaye

[Jim W]

Hankaye, Thank you for your service to our country.

I am not saying your way is incorrect just that there is another way to check these. From my engineering and manufacturing experience; retired engineer from Cat; we just never loosen a nut/bolt to check fastener torque. Could you see that being done on a 16 cylinder 3500/3600series engine? These engines are as big as most trailers that people pull.

So SAE and ISO establish fastener guide lines as far as dynamic and static torque for all grade 5, 8, 9.8 and 10 bolts that I am aware of. We used the static torque values for checking and audit purposes so that is why I proposed this way to check lug nut toques. Just another way to do things.

Jim W.

[gearhead]

OK, I'm reporting back...I checked all 24 of my lug nuts with my Chinese Harbor Freight torque wrench; that has never been calibrated. Of the 24 I think 3 of them moved a tad...less than a flat.
Then I thought what the heck, I'll check and see if I have those flat nosed lug nuts that somebody was talking about. No I don't. I'm getting old but I can't remember seeing a flat nose lug nut.
Similar background as others.....35 years in a huge Houston refinery as a machinist/millwright then foreman, inspector, and finally Machinery Specialist. But I sure haven't seen everything.

[Javi]

OK, I'm reporting back...I checked all 24 of my lug nuts with my Chinese Harbor Freight torque wrench; that has never been calibrated. Of the 24 I think 3 of them moved a tad...less than a flat.
Then I thought what the heck, I'll check and see if I have those flat nosed lug nuts that somebody was talking about. No I don't. I'm getting old but I can't remember seeing a flat nose lug nut.
Similar background as others.....35 years in a huge Houston refinery as a machinist/millwright then foreman, inspector, and finally Machinery Specialist. But I sure haven't seen everything.
Here ya' go :D

Consider that the alloy wheel will grow and shrink more than the steel wheel due to temperature variations and that the inherent "spring" of the steel wheel tapered seat having a lock washer effect versus the solid "squash" :D of the alloy wheel I'm still going with the steel offering less chance of a loose nut.. :D :D

Maybe we should go with Hubcentric vs Lugcentric next.

[Jables]

It was over tightened or over stressed at some point. Can't blame alloy wheels, every high horsepower vehicle runs alloys and blaze tires and heat brakes up beyond reason. Huge heat cycles and no broken studs.

[gearhead]

Javi: "I sure haven't seen everything"; and that's a lug nut I haven't seen. Who uses that??

[Outbackmel]

Really... your wheels can fly off and cause harm to others and you recommend spending $20 for a wrench. Please do some home work and buy something more reliable than a $20 wrench calibrated in Uganda or Vietnam where they don't have RV's....

My wife and I dodged a wheel while motorcycling east on the NB Broward bridge in Jacksonville, Florida, 15 years ago. This thing flew down hill, coming the opposite direction at a force that would have possibly killed us if we had not quickly reacted.

On my 5er, I check the lugs as recommended, takes 10 minutes tops. Safety is number 1. Fortunately in 2 1/2 years and thousands of miles, never had and issue or even a lug that was loose.

Be safe out there....road demons are everywhere :eek:

[gearhead]

JimW: This one is the wrong color isn't it?? Installed 10 of these last year on my part time job. I wished they were yellow.

[gearhead]

Outbackmel who are you talking to???

[Javi]

Outbackmel who are you talking to???

Sounds like he don't like the Harbor Freight torque wrench :D

[Javi]

Javi: "I sure haven't seen everything"; and that's a lug nut I haven't seen. Who uses that??

Alloy wheels which are lugcentric as opposed to hubcentric. Pretty common among alloy wheels.

[Ken / Claudia]

Outbackmel may have been refurring to my post.
The bottom line is spend as much as you want. If that wheel/tire that nearly got you would have been put on and checked as required with a $20 wrench it would not have come off unless there was another issuse. I have 2 wrenchs a $20 and $80 ones. They both work, are they the best money can buy, NO. I am glad you were not hurt.

[JRTJH]

Outbackmel may have been refurring to my post.
The bottom line is spend as much as you want. If that wheel/tire that nearly got you would have been put on and checked as required with a $20 wrench it would not have come off unless there was another issuse. I have 2 wrenchs a $20 and $80 ones. They both work, are they the best money can buy, NO. I am glad you were not hurt.

I agree with you.

Sterret $300 torque wrenches "may" be slightly more accurate than the Harbor Freight $20 wrench. (I paid $9.99 at HF for mine on sale with a coupon). I took it to a friend who runs a PME calibration lab. He ran it against the standards and said the calibration was within 2% of the indicated value at 25%, 50% and 75% of maximum torque value. That's good enough for me. Actually, it hss better accuracy than the Sterret wrench that was accidentally stored on the maximum torque setting (rather than being reset to the lowest value) and it's more accurate than the "high dollar" wrench that was dropped on the concrete last time it was used.

There's nothing wrong with "cheap" tools that are used for "hobbist" projects. I wouldn't want to rely on "cheap" for professional use, but then I wouldn't want to stock my chest with Craftsman if I made my living with the tools. I'd look more toward Snap-on or another "professional grade" tool set. But for torqing lugs on a trailer, cheap is much better than not doing them at all.

Just my opinion, others may view differently.

[gearhead]

Yeah, I'm with y'all. I've got torque wrenches for gun scope mounts up to a 3/4" drive. Are they Snap-On, or even Proto. Heck no. Two of them are Chinese Harbor Freight. For the few times I want them, they work good enough, I assume.
Look, I figure 95% of the folks out on the highway wouldn't know a torque wrench if someone hit them between the eyes with one. Do they ever check their lug nuts? Of course not. We are way ahead of them, Chinese tools and all!!
And...if safety is #1, the last thing I would be doing is riding a murdercycle.
But....oh those Triumph Thruxtons are sweet looking!! LOL
Yes my alloy wheels were dirty in my pic. I washed them.

[hankaye]

Jim W, Howdy;

Hankaye, Thank you for your service to our country.

I am not saying your way is incorrect just that there is another way to check these. From my engineering and manufacturing experience; retired engineer from Cat; we just never loosen a nut/bolt to check fastener torque. Could you see that being done on a 16 cylinder 3500/3600series engine? These engines are as big as most trailers that people pull.

So SAE and ISO establish fastener guide lines as far as dynamic and static torque for all grade 5, 8, 9.8 and 10 bolts that I am aware of. We used the static torque values for checking and audit purposes so that is why I proposed this way to check lug nut toques. Just another way to do things.

Jim W.

When I was doing all my torqueing it was between the late 60's to the early 90's. ASE didn't apply to Military aircraft and ISO was in it's infancy .... I'm the
same as you, not saying one way is better than another, they all have there
place and application. I stand over Daryl and his brothers Larry and Larry to be sure that they torque the nuts by hand and the nut moves to torque
before 'clicking'. Then when I drive/tow near 50 miles I find a spot to safely
pull off the road (generally home by then), then recheck the torque (no telling
how many times Daryl has tossed the wrench he uses into his toolbox), using my Tq. wrench. Then I can static check at 500 mi. :cool:.

In the end we are human beings and will migrate to what we know from past experiences and what we are comfortable with.
You with yours and I with mine ...

hankaye