Alright sewage experts, black tank valve won't close all the way.

[therink]

My rig is about 4 months old now. Yeah, I know it's under warranty but I prefer to fix myself. My cable operated valve won't close all the way. It has worked smoothly until yesterday when dumping full tank and super flushing it. The handle won't go in the last 1/2" therefore now drips.
I am real anal about flushing and using plenty of water so I don't believe lack of maintenance is an issue.
When I got home yesterday, I opened a flap in the belly and exposed the valve. I also super flushed the tank again to remove all residual poo I could and drip emptied it.
Before I try removing the valve to inspect/clean/repair it, I thought I would check with you to see if I should try something else first. I hate to disrupt the valve assembly if I don't need to.
I have thought that maybe the round disc from the factory maybe lodged in there as I think the tank drained a bit slower the last 2 dump events. Can I try putting a garden hose up the tube and flush it out?
Secondly, is there a linkage adjustment on the cable that may have moved or slipped out of adjustment?
I don't believe the cable is seized or needs lubricant as it has always moved very smooth until now.
Thanks for feedback.
Steve

[therink]

Anyone have input?

[Essness]

I have one of these,

http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-F02-4100-45%C2%B0-RV-Hydroflush/dp/B0002UHVAA/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_i

If there is something stuck be the valve, this wouls beat putting a hose up there.

[billb800si]

Here’s a dual flush tank system with a gate valve included. There’s also a video on its operation just click on the small photo left of the product photo on the page.
It’s nice having a gate valve as part of the total unit.
Good luck,

click here: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-39062-Flush-Holding-Rinser/dp/B000BUQOAE/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1374070074&sr=1-5&keywords=drain+flush

[hankaye]

therink, Howdy;

Don't have any experience with the cable variety of valves.
Mine have all been solid connector rod types. That said, you
may have either jammed something (a wad of un-dissolved TP),
into the gap between the seals or rolled an edge of one of the seals.
Only one way to see ...

hankaye

[hankpage]

Steve, Since you have already opened the belly of the beast you should be able to see if the valve is traveling all the way. If it is and still dripping then hankaye is most likely correct (as usual) and you will have to open the valve for repair. Good luck and let us know what you find. It is a fairly easy repair but not very pleasant.

[therink]

Thanks for the responses.
I am hoping the infamous plastic disk isn't in there from Gilligan at the factory (when he drilled the rank to at toilet or vent pipe. Whatever the valve is hitting, it feels hard.
I will let you know what I find.
Steve

[twstdpear]

Looks to me to be a good excuse to buy a tool:

Borescope/Snake camera
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003629WRQ

There are better name brands, but this one gets excellent reviews considering the price.

I've seen similar, probably more expensive ones at my local Home Depot, too.

[hankpage]

Looks to me to be a good excuse to buy a tool:

Borescope/Snake camera
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003629WRQ

There are better name brands, but this one gets excellent reviews considering the price.

I've seen similar, probably more expensive ones at my local Home Depot, too.

They don't work very well when everything is colored black. The lights just are not bright enough. They are good inside heat ducts and walls. And unless you spend $$$$$$ they are not long enough.

[LouSlugger]

You may want to put some stool softener through the system to see if that helps. :)

[GMcKenzie]

Buddy had a similar problem. Had to pull everything apart to find paper towel blocking the valve.

His kids don't get to use the toilet in the trailer anymore.

[therink]

Update- I removed the four bolts and tried to remove the valve. It wont budge. The 3" drain outlet pipe goes up into the belly to a 3" Y fitting with the grey and black tanks and valves on either side of the Y (fore and aft). I can not get the valve flange to separate and dont want to force things in fear I will crack something. All plumbing is very tight (no movement).
Also, it turns out that Keystone installed "Bristol" brand cable actuated valves on both grey and black tanks. They are not very common. Valterra seems to be the more common valve brand. Here is the exact valve: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-3-5-Bristol-Valve-48-cable-Waste-Gray-Water-Camper-RV-Trailer-NOS-/251296572057#vi-content

Has anyone tried to remove one of these? Help......

[hankpage]

If it helps, Valterra claims their valves are interchangeable with Bristol. As you said they are available everywhere.

[hankaye]

therink, Howdy;

Take a look at the hanger straps for the plumbing run see if you can
loosen them enough to give some 'wiggle room'. May be enough to
allow you to get 'at' things.

hankaye

[jtyphoid]

As was already mentioned, loosen all of the hangers. You will need about 1/2" of additional separation between the flanges to be able to slide the valve body out.

However, I'm in the process of replacing valve seals on black and one grey on my 2009 Raptor, and, there is no room to get the valves out without cutting pipe. The tanks are on one side, then the other side butts up to a frame cross member. Not fun.

[therink]

As was already mentioned, loosen all of the hangers. You will need about 1/2" of additional separation between the flanges to be able to slide the valve body out.

However, I'm in the process of replacing valve seals on black and one grey on my 2009 Raptor, and, there is no room to get the valves out without cutting pipe. The tanks are on one side, then the other side butts up to a frame cross member. Not fun.

That is what I am thinking I am running into. I really don't want to cut. I haven't tried looking for or removing hangers. That will be next. I am going to wait a couple days until it cools down a bit here. High hear, swear, mosquitoes and poo don't mix well for this guy. These Bristol valves appear to be one piece whereas the cable assembly is boxed and cannot view the movement of the cable at the valve.
I'll update once I get into it. These
Thanks for the tips.

[woster]

I also had what I thought was a valve stuck open and found that the valve control rod/handle had turned inside the sleeve where it comes through the frame. I couldn't move the handle in or out. Not sure if this is your problem or if you just can't close all the way. Anyway, after taking everything associated with the valve cable/handle apart, I was able to put the sleeve in a vise and turn the handle/rod until it popped back into the grooves. Re-lubed everything, took the kinks out of the cable routing and now everything is good again.

Good luck.

[therink]

Aha... Figured it out. Removed the valve and found a baby wipe jammed in the valve seat, compliments of my 8 year old DD. I am going to make sure she sees it.
BTW- had to remove both the grey tank and black tank valve bolts and remove the drain pipe hanger. Had to pull on it then the whole Y and valve flanges popped off in one piece. It appears that the valves themselves are glued to the flanges on the tanks.
Now I have to go put it all back together.
Thanks everyone.
Steve

[Festus2]

[QUOTE=therink;87574]. I am going to wait a couple days until it cools down a bit here. High heat, sweat, mosquitoes and poo don't mix well for this guy. QUOTE]

Thanks for the update and happy to hear that it turned out well despite all of the above hardships. Somewhere in your repair story, there is a lesson to be learned for all parents of young children. Educate them regarding use and misuse :eek: of the RV toilet. All it takes is just one Baby Wipe.

[therink]

As Festus said, all it takes is one baby wipe to jam a valve. It was lodged into the valve groove real good. I had to use a screw driver to remove it.
We have a "no baby wipe in the toilet" policy but obviously that didn't work.
I am having trouble spreading the flanges on the tanks to get the Y fitting and both valves back into the seats while keeping the o ring seals in place. I thing I will start another thread lookingfor help on this one.
Steve