Gray water tank

[V2k1966]

We have a 2010 couger 318sab the galley grey tank lever that is under the rv is broken off.
All we see is the slit in the underbelly stuff. Would this be an easy fix?
Do we just cut that slit bigger to see in there and hope its just the lever and try and fix?
Does anyone have any photos of what it's going to look like in there?

Thank you

[mguay]

You will have to remove or cut the coroplast to change the cable. If you cut it...make sure to seal it back together as best as you can.
For pics, see my underbelly post http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10892

[Jim W]

We have a 2010 couger 318sab the galley grey tank lever that is under the rv is broken off.
All we see is the slit in the underbelly stuff. Would this be an easy fix?
Do we just cut that slit bigger to see in there and hope its just the lever and try and fix?
Does anyone have any photos of what it's going to look like in there?

Thank you

When I had a catastrophic tire failure on my 318 SAB Cougar a couple years ago, the tire failure took out the kitchen gray water tank handle drain. I had to call a RV repair technician to replace the drain and check out to see what else had been damaged. The insurance company wanted this done if they were going to pay for the entire claim.

So the RV technician removed the failed rod that broke off with one to two inches of the rod sticking out of the gate valve. The drain line and gate valve never failed but the valve did open due to the rod failure. You could feel the rod sticking out but could not see the rod behind the coroplast covering. He threaded a new rod with a handle on to replace what was missing into the gate valve. He did this all without removing or cutting the coroplast to fix the kitchen gray tank gate valve handle. You may be able to do the same thing.

The rod is 1/4X20 threads per inch if I remember correctly. I have some 4 FT long threaded rod in my Bonnie Box for repairs. I also have a couple of 1/4X20 inch couplers with nuts also. I have had to fix the Black tank connecting rod in the past when it failed also due to something breaking it in the lower basement compartment.
Jim W.

[Festus2]

A while back, the whole rod and handle pulled loose when I was starting to empty the gray tank. It seems like the threaded handle had, over time, worked itself loose and just came apart while I was pulling on it. I did have to make a small slit and open the coroplast a bit so I could see the valve properly. I applied some Loctite to the threads of the rod and used a flashlight so I could align the two pieces up, and screwed it back on. Applied some Gorilla tape to the slit afterwards. Since then, it has held tight.

[Outbackmel]

Mandatory for all RV necessary routine repairs or emergency. God Bless Gorilla Tape and Loctite!!"bouncey:

[WaltBennett]

You will have to remove or cut the coroplast to change the cable. If you cut it...make sure to seal it back together as best as you can.
For pics, see my underbelly post http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10892

My valve handle comes out through the frame in front of a tire so I wouldn't have to do that, BUT your link's story gives me a lot of food for thought! Someday I'm going to have to peek in there and see how well they actually insulated my Montana. Don't work for an insulation company, but I've done a lot of DYI stuff in three homes and an earlier trailer.

[Festus2]

WaltBennett -

You might want to check out Geo's posts about the underbelly's insulation, or more accurately, the lack of it. He has done more exploration and research into the underbelly of his previous Alpine but his findings would also be relevant to your Montana.
Geo has been dubbed "Lord of the Underbelly" and knows pretty much all there is to know about this area and beyond.
Unless your Montana is different than most, you should prepare yourself for what you might not find.
When you have completed your trip into the underbelly, let us know how you made out - what you found (or not). Be sure to tell your wife where you are going and when you expect to be back.

[WaltBennett]

Sounds like this is a major project. We're leaving Thursday for a three week trip to cooler climates though, and it'll have to wait. The whole last week has been in the 90's here (both temp. and humidity) with lots of rain. Michigan & Canada are supposed to be in the 70's and dry - wouldn't mind staying longer, but LOML has a convention to go to.

[billstuart]

I solved that problem on our Alpine by leaving the galley drain valve open and installing a bayonette style valve on the end of the pipe. No more standing on my head to open the valve or having the end of the two piece rod come off in my hand.

[JRTJH]

I solved that problem on our Alpine by leaving the galley drain valve open and installing a bayonette style valve on the end of the pipe. No more standing on my head to open the valve or having the end of the two piece rod come off in my hand.

Bill, Your "workaround" is good for summer camping, but doing that during the winter puts the drain pipe from the gray tank to the bayonette fitting full of water and possible frozen/split drain pipe during the winter. The valves are inside the closed belly to protect them from freezing, allowing water to stand in the pipes outside the belly will "void" your "Polar Pack" ability to protect your "gray water" LOL

Your idea is great and I've done it on multiple tank RV's to gain a bit more shower water storage by equalizing the gray tanks. Just remember to protect the exposed drain pipes if you do this during the winter !!!!!

[mikell]

And Micigan is back into the 80 starting today. but the nights will be in the 60's