Another Dometic Refrigerator Mystery

[Jim_VaBeach]

We have a RM1350 4 door Stainless Steel Refrigerator in a 2011 Alpine. Yesterday morning as I opened the door to it, the light was not working. The temperature is fine still 24 hours later, but no light and I have tested the bulb in another camper and it is fine. I have played with the two door switches to see if this makes it come on but it did not. Naturally Dometic does not have Technical staff to talk to lowly customers and my handy dandy Dealer is to busy to answer phone calls. Any ideas? I did take to outside lower access cover off and saw a 4 amp fuse holder which checked out okay but did not dig any deeper so as to not void any warranty.
:banghead:

[hankaye]

Jim_VaBeach, Howdy;

Several threads on this one ....
Long story short .... Go to the outside access panel,
inside look around and you'll see a small Black Box,
inside it are 2 automotive (Glass cylinder style). fuses.
One is for the 120vac side It's a 10 amp.
The OTHER is for the 12vdc side AND is the primary power
source for the whole she-bang.
If that's not the problem I'm outta ideas...:rolleyes:
and you'll have to use the search function in the toolbar up top...

hankaye

[Jim_VaBeach]

Jim_VaBeach, Howdy;

Several threads on this one ....
Long story short .... Go to the outside access panel,
inside look around and you'll see a small Black Box,
inside it are 2 automotive (Glass cylinder style). fuses.
One is for the 120vac side It's a 10 amp.
The OTHER is for the 12vdc side AND is the primary power
source for the whole she-bang.
If that's not the problem I'm outta ideas...:rolleyes:
and you'll have to use the search function in the toolbar up top...

hankaye
I believe I saw that box. It is on the right side with several wires going into it and a latch on each side. I killed the power and shut off the battery earlier today trying to enter this box. The latch on the one side is almost impossible to unlatch but I will try again tomorrow if that is where the two fuses are located. Thank you for the reply, I have been searching for answers and have not found any on here.

[hankaye]

Jim_VaBeach, Howdy;

Sounds like you found the control box, be sure to take the fuses
out before testing, otherwise you are just bridging the gap and
will get a false good reading ...... I found out the hard way ... :banghead:

Good luck,

hankaye

[Jim_VaBeach]

Jim_VaBeach, Howdy;

Sounds like you found the control box, be sure to take the fuses
out before testing, otherwise you are just bridging the gap and
will get a false good reading ...... I found out the hard way ... :banghead:

Good luck,

hankaye

I went back to the camper this morning and the temps were fine.I got the black box open, I found one glass cylinder type fuse and one of the >"U" shaped fuse similar to the one I found yesterday. Both were fine. I had to unplug the frig to get the box open as room is very limited. So with my tail between my legs, I reassembled everything, went inside to make sure it would turn on and now my door light is working. WTF???

[hankaye]

Jim_VaBeach, Howdy;

One of them, most likely the glass cylinder, may have
been a bit loose or corroded and the in/out routine may
have scuffed it clean enough to make a better contact.
Being as your handle reads Va.Bch. you have plenty of
salt in the air (I was at NAS Oceana for11 years).
You may want to use a Scotchbrite pad and clean them off
"officially" and keep your fingers crossed.

hank

[raytronx]

Interesting, I had just read this article yesterday.

http://rvlife.com/blogs/entry/adventures-in-rving-boondocking-thief.html


It talks about disabling the heat strip when boondocking to save power, a by product of that is no fridge light. I wonder if your issue is to do with that circuit...