black tank chemicals

[yeabuddy]

So I recently posted about leaving the black tank full while I was gone form our seasonal to help in tank digestion before I return to dump it. I received a lot of replies (on here and another forum) from folks who say these chemicals don't do anything but maybe help with odor.
Now I know you can't believe everything you read and I doubt any of these folks are scientists or have ever really tested this theory... but maybe.
So my question is, has anyone ever really tested this? These products advertise "break down solids", "enzymes digest waste", "liquefies waste" etc. etc.
Not that you'd $#!* in a jar, pour some chemicals over it and watch what it does but... :rofl: there sure are a lot of companies out there promoting these chemicals so I thought I'd ask.
Maybe someone has some scientific evidence we could all learn from.

[2011 keystone]

Just a question but why would you not want to dump the black tank befor you leave?

[Javi]

Here's what the University of Arizona said about it..

http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/water/az1233.pdf

[yeabuddy]

Just a question but why would you not want to dump the black tank befor you leave?


To liquefy waste and avoid clogs

[Bugle Boy]

http://www.calarvc.com/pdf/RV_Holding_Tank_Products.pdf

We have always used the TST Orange. Looks like it is OK according to the AZ report.

[SAABDOCTOR]

ARE YOU asking to be the poop tank tester? I have no desire to see what the chemicals are doing in my tank!:eek: I drain and flush the tank when i head home from the camper. sorry that would be a sh&*^%y job:D have a great night

[hankpage]

If you dump and rinse your tank when you're done using it, there is no need to "Digest and liquefy" it's contents .... it's gone. It is a holding tank, not a septic system. Enzymes take a long time to work and if the tank is empty .... no need for them. Perhaps if you want to dump ... fill the tank with clean water and these additives and then dump when you return there may be some benefit, but I don't see a NEED for it. JM2¢, Hank

[therink]

Personally, I dump the tank as needed and refill with about 5 gals water before using or letting it sit for extended period. I also use back flush extensively when dumping. I Don't use chemicals, no odor issues for years using this method. The key is to use plenty of water so bottom portion of tank is submerged and not in contact with air. Exposure to air is what causes odors for the most part.

[Kenworth]

I have noticed that after a week in the tank, that when it is drained it is all liquid, and with 4 people using it...it isn't all liquid going in.:surprise:

[diugo]

The use of enzymes to completely liquify solid waste just isn't necessary with three-inch RV plumbing under typical use. Most of the solids, including the TP, are highly water soluble and will liquify on their own. The remaining solids generally aren't sticky enough to glom together to form a clog in the space of a few weeks.

I haven't used an ounce of chemical in over eleven years and have never had a holding tank clog. RV tank chemical is literally money down the drain.

[mowin]

We are seasonal, and head to the CG every Fri afternoon. When I flush the toilet the smell permeating from it isn't pleasant if I let the contents in the black tank sit all week long. Even more so during the steamy summer months. I do use chemical packs too. So I dump after each weekend. Durring every bathroom visit I usually hold the flush peddle down for 30+ seconds just to attempt to fill the black tank about half way before the weekend is over. Many times I'm holding the peddle down for several minuets on Sunday afternoon so there is sufficient water in the tank to dump.

[mikell]

You need to put enough water in to fill the back side of your valves so the pipes don't get filled with a big plug. Give the tanks time to work before they fill

[SoGaDually]

We drain and flush ours all of our tanks every time before we leave the campground. We always add some water back into the black tank along with powdered water softener.
Here is something I came across several years ago, we tried it and it worked very well and still using this method...

Black and Gray Water Holding Tank Maintenance

Everyone who owns an RV should be concerned with maintaining its waste-water tanks. Problems with waste-water tanks that can be avoided should be avoided. Waste-water tank repair is expensive. Due to health concerns, many service facilities will not work on waste-water tanks and lines until the tanks have been completely emptied and sanitized. This may be quite difficult when the tank(s) is in need of repair. So, common sense dictates that the tanks should be kept relatively clean at all times. Additionally, improper use of the waste-water tanks can lead to a build up of solid wastes, which in itself may cause the system to fail.

I've discovered very simple, effective, and inexpensive methods of maintaining my waste-water tanks in a relatively clean condition at all times. I developed these methods myself through my understanding of chemistry, physics, and biology with a smidgen of common sense thrown in for good measure. I also read my RV owner’s manual. Although we are not full time RVers we use our fifth wheel camper at least one weekend a month. We never use public bathing and toilet facilities. In other words, our waste-water tanks are fairly heavily used. Since I've met a number of RVers who don’t seem to know how to maintain their waste-water tanks I thought many RVers would find my tips useful. If you have not been maintaining your tanks I believe you will be pleasantly surprised the first time you employ these tips. I do these things and they work.

1. DUMP A FULL TANK
When you are camping and your RV is connected to a sewer/septic intake, leave the drain valves closed until the tank is full and ready to dump. Dumping a full tank provides a sufficient quantity of water to flush solids from the tank. Leaving the drain valves open allows the water to drain off without flushing out solid waste. That solid waste will collect in the tank(s) and cause problems over time.

2. DUMP TANKS IN ORDER FROM DIRTIEST TO CLEANEST
In other words, dump the black (commode) water tank first, then dump the galley tank, then dump the shower and bathroom sink tank. This way you will be flushing out the dirtiest water with progressively cleaner water.

3. USE WATER SOFTENER
This stuff is amazing and it works. Buy a couple of boxes of powdered water softener at the grocery store. You’ll find it located with or near the laundry detergent products. I prefer Calgon Water Softener because it dissolves quickly in water. Cheaper water softeners work just as well but dissolve more slowly. Dissolve two (2) cups of the water softener in a gallon of hot water. Then, pour the solution down the drain into the empty tank. Use two cups of softener for each waste-water tank in your RV. The tank’s drain valve should be closed otherwise the softened water will just drain out. Then use the tank(s) normally until it is full and drain it normally. Add a cup of laundry detergent to the black (commode) water tank at the same time. This will help clean the tank.The gray water tanks should already contain soap through normal use.

The water softener makes the solid waste let go from the sides of the tanks. If you've ever taken a shower in softened water you know that after rinsing the soap from your body your skin will feel slick. That’s because all the soap rinses away with soft water. Softened water also prevents soap scum from sticking in the tub. Get the connection? With softened water gunk washes away instead of sticking. The same thing applies to your RV’s waste-water tanks.

I use one of those clear plastic elbow connectors to attach my sewer drain line to the waste-water outlet on my RV. It allows me to see how well things are progressing during a waste-water dump. Before I began using water softener regularly the black water tank’s water was brown, the galley tank’s water was brownish, and the bathroom tank’s water was white. The first time I added water softener to the tanks the water coming from the black water tank was actually black (not brown) and the kitchen tank’s water was also black (not brownish). The bathroom tank’s water remained white. That told me that the water softener had actually done what I had intended for it to do and made solid waste, which had been stuck to the interior of the tanks, let go and drain away. I added water softener to all the waste-water tanks for the next few dumps to be certain all the solid waste possible had been cleaned away. The waste-water only appeared black on the initial treatment. I now add water softener to each tank once after every few dumps to maintain the system.

Occasionally, I pour a gallon of liquid bleach into each tank to sanitize and disinfect them. I no longer use the blue toilet chemical because it isn’t necessary. I have no odors coming from my black water tank. Generic brand liquid bleach is cheap and very effective.

4. USE A WATER FILTER ON YOUR FRESH WATER INTAKE LINE

Most fresh water contains sediment. Sediment will accumulate in your waste-water tanks and your fresh water lines. It also tends to discolor your sinks, tub/shower, and commode. I use the disposable type and have found that they eventually fill up and begin restricting the fresh water flow resulting in low pressure. That’s how I know it’s time to get a new filter. It works, it’s cheap, it avoids problems, do it.

SOME OTHER THOUGHTS
• I believe occasionally traveling with partially filled waste-water tanks that contain softened water promotes cleaning by agitating the water. The same goes for chlorine bleach.
• I believe this process works faster and more efficiently during warm weather. However, I know it works well even during cool/cold weather.
• I believe the process works best the longer the water softener remains in the tanks. So, I don’t add water softener during periods of heavy waste-water generation. I wait until I know we won’t be generating waste-water quickly so that the softened water remains in the tanks for several days before dumping.
• I add a small amount of chlorine bleach to the fresh water tank twice a year to disinfect and sanitize the fresh water tank and fresh water lines. A weak chlorine bleach solution will not hurt you. However, it certainly makes the water taste bad. When we have chlorine in the fresh water system we use bottled water for drinking and cooking until the chlorine is gone.
• My tanks are plastic and my pipes are PVC.
• Don’t be afraid to use your tanks. Just use common sense about their care and maintenance.
• These tips are inexpensive to do. Some of them don’t cost anything. You have nothing to lose in trying them and I encourage you to do so. I actually feel a certain amount of pride in the condition and cleanliness of both my waste and fresh water systems. Naturally, these tips make dumping a much more pleasant and sanitary procedure.
• If you have odors in any of your water systems these procedures should eliminate them. Odors indicate a sanitary problem and degrade the enjoyment you derive from your RV.
• When my RV is parked and not in use I place stoppers in my sink and tub drains. This allows the waste-water tanks to vent through the vent pipes to the outside instead of through the drains into the RV.

[Jim2366]

Five Star PBW all purpose alkaline based cleaner. Used to soak and then rinse and empty.

[Max23]

So, didn't want to requote that entire post, so just a question out of it. If your putting soft water into your tanks, would it be safe to say, why not just put that water softener into your main water holding tank?? Can this be done? Anyone ever do it?? I would think this would help keep all lines and everything else from buildup of mineral deposits as well. Obviously you can't [or shouldn't] be drinking soft water, however, we aren't drinking from the holding tank anyway. So, using a filter, yes already do, can the water softener be introduced this way???

[Jim2366]

Max23
Your question about the safety after using a water softener is the reason why I posted about Five Star PBW. It is safe to drink after it is flushed out. It is used alot to clean the equipment in making beer.

[Max23]

Actually I was wondering, since we DON'T drink water from our holding tank, could a person just introduce the soft water through the system that way instead of pouring it into the black and grey tanks separately. I mean, kinda my thought is, it would keep mineral deposits from forming in the lines and in the pump and faucets etc etc. Is this an acceptable practice or is there something along the way this would harm, ie the pump or something? I get a lot of people would use the main tank for drinking water as well, just saying if you weren't going to drink from there could this be done or would you risk hurting something along the way.