Sticky grey water valve

[Jim7411]

I have a 2012 Laredo 324rl with a very stiff grey water valve. My dealer suggested running some antifreeze through it to loosen it up. He says the antifreeze has a lubricant in it that might help. The only other option would be accessing the valve and repairing or replacing it, which is a bit of work since the propane line would have to be dropped before the belly cover can be removed. Any ideas?

[mguay]

Check out the pics in this http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10892 thread. This is what I found in my 2010 underbelly. If the valves have been like that since new....it is probably a cable issue like mine was.

[SteveC7010]

I have a 2012 Laredo 324rl with a very stiff grey water valve. My dealer suggested running some antifreeze through it to loosen it up. He says the antifreeze has a lubricant in it that might help. The only other option would be accessing the valve and repairing or replacing it, which is a bit of work since the propane line would have to be dropped before the belly cover can be removed. Any ideas?
Do you know if yours is a remote valve with up to 6' of cable or is the handle connected directly to the valve? You may have to peek above the coroplast to verify this.

I ask because if it is a remote cable model, there's also a fair possibility that the cable is binding and not the valve. The end result is the same and so is the feel when you try to open or close it.

Once you know which you have, then you can plan how to fix it. A while back we had a detailed discussion about how to deal with a sticky cable so you can use the search function to find that. If the handle is connected directly to the valve, then you can try the antifreeze trick. Others have reported good luck with coconut oil, too.

You may not have to fully drop the propane line. If you just remove the hangers, it may sag just enough to get the screws out of the edges of the coroplast and pull it away. As we've recommended many times, you really don't have to drop the whole belly. Once you can see up in there, you can determine what is where. Most folks will cut the coroplast and only expose the area they need to work on. We always recommend cutting no more than 3 sides so that you have a flap. Generally the hinge of the flap should be to the front of the trailer so that if it does come loose, it won't act like a scoop when traveling. Since you're working from the edge, you'd only have to cut two sides. Again, there are already quite a few threads with details and hints on working with the coroplast.

[chuck&gail]

If it is the valve, try this. FIRST EMPTY the waste tank. Then shoot a little silicon spray on the pull rod, then fog half a can of silicon spray back up the dump outlet while working the valve.

[theeyres]

If it is just a lever connected directly to the valve (no cable) I just squirt a whole bunch of WD 40 onto the shaft and work it back and forth. It has always worked.

[Jim7411]

It's a cable operated valve, so I guess I need to do a little more digging. The cable routing seems like a good probability. Looks like it's time to get on the ground and start looking. Thanks for the ideas!

[Jim7411]

Thanks Steve. I crawled underneath and took out enough hanger clips so that I could squeeze my arm into the underbelly. I was able to pull the cable enough to lessen the tight bend in it. Works just fine now!