3180RE Water Heater

[NOVA 3108RE Owner]

We have a 3180RE that we have had out three times. It seems the electric mode is not working. There is a switch on the panel for electric and one for gas. The light on the panel never lights even if I have both switches on. The water heater is definitely working in the gas mode.

How can I verify if electric is working?

This post is being moved from the Forum Technical area to the Repair and Maintenance area since it does not involve any forum related technical problems.

[Festus2]

If it is a Suburban, it may have a small black rocker switch on the outside access panel to the HW heater. On ours, this switch has to be in the ON position before it will work on 110vAC.

You'll have to go outside, open up the access door and look near the bottom left-hand corner to see this rocker switch.

Note that your set-up may be different than ours and the rocker switch may not be there.

[byrdr1]

I know its hard to see but onthis picture in the lower left hand corner you can see a cotter pin that keeps the electric Off/On switch from being turned on. Its right behind that curved gas tube..
check that. the cotter pin is very small and hard to reach with your hands i removed mine with needle nosed pliers.
randyhttp://bretzrv.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/waterheater.jpg

[fla-gypsy]

My money is on a 2nd switch outside in the WH compartment. Let us know what you find.

[CUFFS054]

Nova,
not sure I'm following you, but the only time the red light comes on in my Springdale is when I'm runnig gas and there is a failure to fire. If you keep the inside switch off and then pull the pin and flip the little black switch outside you should be 100% electric. Many have said that you can run both gas/ele for quicker recovery but my W/H is not happy and will throw the high limit gas switch. BTW, MAKE SURE YOUR W/H IS FULL BEFORE SWITCHING ON THE ELECTRIC! IT TAKES ABOUT A NANO-SECOND TO KILL THE ELEMENT IF YOU FIRE IT DRY (ask me how I know)

[NOVA 3108RE Owner]

Here is what I have found.

The propane side of the unit is accessed on the outside. The electric side is accessed from the inside. There is no switch on the unit. Its supposed to switch over on its own. If the propane switch is set to ON in the RV control panel, the unit will try three times to fire. If it does not fire it will switch to electric if the electric switch is ON in the RV control panel. If not then the red light on the panel comes on.

When I pulled the panel on the electric side I noticed way in the back on the top outside of the heater some wires. When I looked closer I found they had not been connected. You will note in the photo the coupling is not connected - sorry for the poor quailty of the photo but I think you get the idea. This line supplies the electric element. No wonder the electric side did not seem to work! No power! I guess they forgot to do this at the factory and the dealer never tested it.

I have now connected the two sides, hooked up the water and electric to see if the electric heater is working. Will let you know as it will probably take a couple of hours to heat.

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=361&pictureid=1869

[NOVA 3108RE Owner]

That seems to have done it. Hot water from the electric now.

[Festus2]

Excellent! "bouncey: Glad that it turned out to be a fairly easy and very cheap fix.

[geeman]

....... BTW, MAKE SURE YOUR W/H IS FULL BEFORE SWITCHING ON THE ELECTRIC! IT TAKES ABOUT A NANO-SECOND TO KILL THE ELEMENT IF YOU FIRE IT DRY (ask me how I know)

Does anyone know how to test an electric element? Does continuity work?
What about voltage off each screw?

I think I may be in the above catagory when my kids slept in it on thier own and no water.:banghead:

Gas still works great, just no=go on electric. (external switch is on, never turn it off, but may have to start.)

[Festus2]

[QUOTE=geeman;86029]Does anyone know how to test an electric element? Does continuity work?
What about voltage off each screw?

QUOTE]

If you remove the cover for the element, you should see 2 terminals (110V) - with a white wire going to one and a black going to the other. Turn the power off and put a tester across the 2 terminals (for continuity) and see if you get a reading. If you don't, chances are your element is toast.

Let us know what you find.

[geeman]

[QUOTE=geeman;86029]Does anyone know how to test an electric element? Does continuity work?
What about voltage off each screw?

QUOTE]

If you remove the cover for the element, you should see 2 terminals (110V) - with a white wire going to one and a black going to the other. Turn the power off and put a tester across the 2 terminals (for continuity) and see if you get a reading. If you don't, chances are your element is toast.

Let us know what you find.

Did not have meter so went ahead and put in new element cause surely, that has to be it, right? Wrong. Took home to meter and did not have voltage to element. Took cover off of high limit switches, the one with the two rubber resets on it. Found there is actually 4 limits, two on each side tied together with a solid wire spot welded one. One of those ends was loose. Soldiered it back on and then had voltage at the element. Heater working great.:)

Probably did not need element but then I guess education comes at an expense some how....:cool: