Suburban Anode Rod Question

[FragmagnetEOD]

Hey all, so I replaced the anode rod and the question I have is this. When I screwed the new one in place, I noticed that I have what to me seams like an excessive amount of threads still showing(3-4). I didn't have any problems starting it by hand or snugging it up with the ratchet. I also got a nice rap of teflon tape going too. I feel pretty confident that it is alright the way it sits, just need some affirmation.

Wes

[86GT2r]

You should be fine. The threads are tapered & it would be next to impossible to screw it in until the threads weren't showing.

[therink]

I recently replaced mine. The replacent anode had about 1/8" more threads. I noticed that too. Mine is in with additional threads exposed and doesn't leak.
Steve

[TAZ23]

You will be fine as long as its not leaking. check it after a couple of hours, If you dont see any water below the heater you are good to go.

[Bushman512000]

Do away with the tape buy a tube of Teflon paste like in a small travel size of tooth paste. Last a long, long time and keeps the threads from rusting and also seals better get it at any hard ware store...I store it in the Hot water heater so I have it handy at all times Bushman :D

[diugo]

I skipped the teflon thing altogether. No leaks and no problem removing the old anode after 16 months.

[JRTJH]

I skipped the teflon thing altogether. No leaks and no problem removing the old anode after 16 months.

You were very lucky. For the additional 3 cents worth of teflon tape, why risk potentially destroying the anode fitting in the water heater tank? If you ever do have corrosion problems and twist off that fitting, you're looking at at least $500 in repairs to replace it.

[diugo]

You were very lucky. For the additional 3 cents worth of teflon tape, why risk potentially destroying the anode fitting in the water heater tank? If you ever do have corrosion problems and twist off that fitting, you're looking at at least $500 in repairs to replace it.


Not lucky, just smart. I know how galvanic corrosion works. The whole fundamental purpose of the anode is to prevent corrosion entirely---including at the rod itself. I have never had any "corrosion problems" because I always replace the anode before it is depleted.

Why no tape? Because the anode and tank MUST be in good electrical contact in order for the anode to do its job. Tape actually reduces the electrical contact, reducing the anode's effectiveness.

The only time tape is needed is when some bonehead fails to replace the anode before it dissolves, and corrosion then damages some of the threads, leading to leaking.

[SteveC7010]

I skipped the teflon thing altogether. No leaks and no problem removing the old anode after 16 months.
My dad was a plumbing and heating contractor. I grew up working with these things. Skipping the teflon tape or paste is not the way to go here.

[Festus2]

As long as the sacrificial zinc or anode is in contact with the water in the tank, it seems to me that is all that is required. If the zinc/anode is in good condition and not eaten away, then the tank is being protected from corrosion. The zinc/anode rod isn't there to protect itself, it is there to protect the tank and its components and its function is simply a sacrificial one. "Eat me first" if you like.

The Teflon tape IMO simply makes it easier to remove the plug and to help prevent leaking.

But in response to the OP's question and back to the topic, it isn't unusual for a few threads to be showing as others have already indicated.

[Jim W]

Not lucky, just smart. I know how galvanic corrosion works. The whole fundamental purpose of the anode is to prevent corrosion entirely---including at the rod itself. I have never had any "corrosion problems" because I always replace the anode before it is depleted.

Why no tape? Because the anode and tank MUST be in good electrical contact in order for the anode to do its job. Tape actually reduces the electrical contact, reducing the anode's effectiveness.

The only time tape is needed is when some bonehead fails to replace the anode before it dissolves, and corrosion then damages some of the threads, leading to leaking.

No; you are dealing with pipe threads that taper to forum a binding fitment has the components are screwed together. Since you are dealing with pipe threads the fitment may be slightly lose between the root of the female fitting and the peak of the male fitting, allowing a leak. That is why a third medium is used to take up this gap between them. This is why the industry uses either pipe dope or Teflon tape for this joint.

Jim W.

[halfprice]

Being kind of new to RVing I had no idea what maintenance was needed for the water header. I was just told yesterday that my buddies water header had a leak because he never changed the anode. The leak rotted out the floor of his toy hauler. From what I was told he is in the process of ripping out the floor so he can replace it with new wood.

Last night I checked my header and the anode looked pretty corroded. I sprayed it with wd-40 hoping it would loosen it up. This morning I ran to the store to get a 1 1/16 socket. Luckily the anode came right out, but it was just a wire. The anode was completely gone.

I saw a you tube video last night about cleaning the heater. They said to fill it half way with vinegar then top off with fresh water. Turn the heat on then let in sit over night. In the morning flush. So I got 3 gallons of vinegar from Costco. I'll fill it and let it do its thing.

I also ordered 2 anodes off of ebay. They should be here by next weekend.

Jerry

[halfprice]

What other maintenance like this is needed on the trailer???? I already ran the bleach through the water line. Did that last weekend to get ready for the season.

Anything need to be done to the a/c heater???


Jerry

[Festus2]

I've never heard anything about adding 3 gallons of vinegar mixed in with 3 gallons of plain water to the HW tank, turning it on and let it sit overnight in order to clean the HW tank. I would imagine that this process would be similar to cleaning out your electric coffee maker or iron -- to get rid of deposits that build up over time.

HW heater anodes should be checked at least once every year. If you live or visit areas where the water is heavy in certain mineral content, your anode will get "eaten away" quickly. When the zinc on the rod reaches less than 50%, I would replace it right away. I generally look for 70% and then I will replace it. The anodes aren't that expensive so it is cheap insurance.

I would recommend that you use Teflon tape on the threads of the anode before you install it.

[ThePressureIsOn]

The best way to clean your HW heater is to turn it off for 24 hours before you drain it and then remove the anode rod, under pressure, while standing in front of it. Does a great job....of course you will need to place all of your clothing in a dryer for a while. For some reason I have done this twice. One thinks that I should have learned to let the pressure off after the first drenching.:o

[B&T]

just more trivia:

Had a suburban on my last TT. Due to that TT design, I could open my low point drains when leaving a campsite and the Hot water heater would drain completely. Since I only had water in the tank while camping the anode rod was still barely pitted after two years. I checked it yearly when I flushed the tank out. Still have a spare anode rod that I bought but never used -- don't need it on the current Atwood HWH.

[JRTJH]

There is a procedure to use white distilled vinegar in a mixture of 2:1 (4 gallons of vinegar to 2 gallons of water) to reduce the smell of sulfication in the water heater. Occasionally, there is a bacteria that gets in the water heater, sets up a "not too nice smell" and persists even though the water heater may be emptied, rinsed and refilled. The vinegar helps kill the bacteria and neutralize the sulfur that they produce. There is also a procedure to use clorox to do the same thing. Either way will remove the bacteria and their byproducts. You can look the process up at the following website: http://beamalarm.com/Documents/atwood_water_heater_troubleshooting.html
or here: http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/waterheaters/MPD%2093756%20SP%2011.19.07.pdf

One thing that I read last year (never paid attention to it before) is that RV antifreeze is extrememly corrosive to the anode rod. The recommendation was to leave the rod out of the water heater if you pour any antifreeze into the tank (to freezeproof the small bit of water left in the tank).

Hope this helps you some, but unless you've got a sulfur smell or taste, there's no need to use vinegar.

[halfprice]

The you tube video I saw said the vinegar help remove deposits in the tank. Since I purchased the 5th used and after seeing what was left of the anode I figured the vinegar wouldn't hurt.

Now that I know about this I'll be checking the anode regularly and most likely draining the water heater after each trip.

Now is there anything else I should be doing?????

Jerry

[Festus2]

I seldom drain the water heater (except during winterization) and certainly not after every trip. My fear is forgetting to turn the shut off valve back, and turning the switch on to heat the tank which, of course, is empty! If my memory was better, I might consider that.

I've never had any problems with leaving the tank full of water between trips so I will continue that practice.

[halfprice]

Little up date with the water heater. In the video I saw that said to put the vinegar in the tank and let it sit. When they flushed their tank you could see the water was whitish in color. It took a while before it cleared up.

Well I drained my tank this morning. It was clear. So this tells me the tank is clean and I feel lucky because I don't think the anode was ever changed by the previous owner.

From now on I'll check the anode every 6 months and flush the tank good each time. I will not do the vinegar again. It didn't seem to do anything.


Jerry

[halfprice]

One more thing. When I first drained the tank there were lots of pieces of the old anode in the tank. I used a Water Heater Tank Rinser that I got at Camping World. It worked great. It makes a strong stream of water that cleaned everything out of the tank. Well worth the $6

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/water-heater-tank-rinser/49070

Jerry

[Jim W]

The you tube video I saw said the vinegar help remove deposits in the tank. Since I purchased the 5th used and after seeing what was left of the anode I figured the vinegar wouldn't hurt.

Now that I know about this I'll be checking the anode regularly and most likely draining the water heater after each trip.

Now is there anything else I should be doing?????

Jerry

Jerry, are you asking about the water system when you ask what else I should be doing?

If so you should clean and purify the water system yearly. I do this every time I take the camper out of winter storage. There are many products and or home remedies that are used to clean the water system and its holding tanks. I would do a search on this site looking for water tank cleaning. Or you can purchase a product called Spring Fresh Water System cleaner from camping world and follow the directions on the bottle.

Jim W.

[halfprice]

Jerry, are you asking about the water system when you ask what else I should be doing?

If so you should clean and purify the water system yearly. I do this every time I take the camper out of winter storage. There are many products and or home remedies that are used to clean the water system and its holding tanks. I would do a search on this site looking for water tank cleaning. Or you can purchase a product called Spring Fresh Water System cleaner from camping world and follow the directions on the bottle.

Jim W.

Thanks Jim but yes I knew about this. Just did it two weeks ago. Again I learned about this on this site.

I guess I was asking about other general maintenance. Maybe to the a/c heater. Guess I'm not really sure what else on the trailers need service. Tires, brakes, bearings and battery get checked every year or more often. I spray the slide with graphite and 303 the slide gaskets. All learned here.


Anything else??


Jerry

[JRTJH]

Check the rubber roof. Pay very close attention to all the DICOR sealant around every "hole" in the roof and especially along the drip moldings at the sides and front/back. If there's any question, clean the area, remove any "LOOSE" sealant and apply a generous coating of self leveling DICOR to flat surfaces and/or lap sealant (doesn't run) DICOR to vertical surfaces. Then check the windows, door seals, all the appliance mountings.

Make sure to double check the aluminum molding that runs along the lower edge of the RV, just above the "color change" from the skirting to the fiberglass walls.

Check and clean the appliance gas fittings, furnace vents and make sure the refrigerator drain hose is in good condition and routed outside the refrigerator outside panel.

There are bunches more, but these are the basic "keep it healthy" parts.

[halfprice]

I cleaned and checked the roof two weeks ago. All good up there. Fridge drain hose is good. Replaced that last year and its still looks good.

So far so good. Thanks


Jerry

[Comptech]

Ok so I too just flushed out my water heater and these pieces came out... any idea what they are? the seem glass like and the edges seemed burnt

[Festus2]

Comptech -

Now that you've flushed your tank, reinstalled the anode (if you have one), refilled the tank with water, have you tested it out using both electric and propane? I'd be interested knowing if the tank still heats the water on electric. The reason why I am asking is that these pieces MAY BE fragments of your electric water heater element. It's also hard to tell the size of them from the photos.

[Comptech]

Ok let me check to see if the electric part works...
Is the inside of the tank coated with any sort of coating? Also if the element is burnt out can it be replaced?

[CUFFS054]

yep, element can be replaced.

[Comptech]

So the electric heating work very good, had the water heater on gas, shut that off, turned on the electric and about a hour later checked the hot water. It was hotter then when i had it on gas... I am going to see if I can take some better pictures of the pieces I found...

[JRTJH]

The tank is "glass lined" meaning there's a coating on the inside of the tank that's similar to the old "blue granite" coating on stamped steel cookware. In the owner's manual for Suburban HWH's there is a statement that sludge and minerals settling in the bottom of the tank will insulate the bottom of the tank and cause it to overheat. Overheating will damage the glass lining (crack it) and what you've found are probably bits of the glass lining from the tank. I'd watch closely for leaks around the HWH. If you have a borescope, or a small computer camera, you may be able to insert it into the anode fitting and inspect your tank, otherwise, just keep an eye on it. Replacement tanks are available, but unless you're "quite handy" it's probalby easier and likely to be cheaper to just buy a replacement hot water heater.

If you're interested in getting a "borescope" there's one available at Harbor Freight for about $75 or you can get a "pencil computer camera" like the on in this link. http://www.ebay.com/itm/7mm-Inspection-Camera-200X-USB-Microscope-Endoscope-Borescope-Waterproof-2M-TE15-/321060396782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac0b0deee

Keep in mind that the EBay borescope is connected by a very flexible cable and is difficult (not impossible) to manipulate once it's inserted in the anode fitting. Inspecting the inside of the tank is not mandatory, but I'd almost bet you've got a cracked glass lining.

[Comptech]

Jrtjh,
Thank you, that is what I thought it was. So Now that I have an extended warranty on the 5er I need to call and see what my options are.
I really do not know how this happened either. I never ran the unit dry, and I only used the gas mostly....

[Festus2]

So the electric heating work very good, had the water heater on gas, shut that off, turned on the electric and about a hour later checked the hot water. It was hotter then when i had it on gas... I am going to see if I can take some better pictures of the pieces I found...

So-- is your tank working again? Can you see any evidence of leaking around the tank or from underneath?

If it is functioning properly again, not sure why you are looking at extended warranty coverage?

Hopefully, it is working and you won't need to get a new one.

[Comptech]

I called the MFG and they said it is most likely the lining cracked. It is still under the MFG 2 year warranty. They directed me to a local RV warranty repair shop not too far away. I sent them the pics of the pieces I found, so I still need to follow up with them. My problem is that we leave for Pigeon Forge on Saturday and then the RV will stay at the lake for the rest of the season. I wish they was a way to get the water heater and install it myself, I have done one before. they are not that hard...

FYI, there is no leaking and it does seem to work very well... so maybe I caught it before it got too bad. Thanks to this awesome forum, I would have never tried to wash out the water heater tank without reading it here.(tx)

[Charli]

Interesting thread. I just finished dewinterizing my unit. I had taken the anode rod out in the fall and left it out for the winter. Before screwing it back in I cleaned the threads off. Lots of sediment and left over Teflon tape. When I went to screw it in I noticed lots of sediment on the threads inside the tank. Tried to clean it but difficult to get at. After screwing it in as far as I could there were lots of threads showing and was concerned the sediment was the problem. After reading this thread I now know that this isn't a problem and it doesn't appear to be leaking.

[alien_scones]

This anode is from 1 year of use. (around 40 nights of camping)

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=250&pictureid=1978

Also, there was a lot of sediment in the tank... crazy amount - So much I'm surprised it has not clogged up other fixtures in the camper.

[JRTJH]

I called the MFG and they said it is most likely the lining cracked. It is still under the MFG 2 year warranty. They directed me to a local RV warranty repair shop not too far away. I sent them the pics of the pieces I found, so I still need to follow up with them. My problem is that we leave for Pigeon Forge on Saturday and then the RV will stay at the lake for the rest of the season. I wish they was a way to get the water heater and install it myself, I have done one before. they are not that hard...

FYI, there is no leaking and it does seem to work very well... so maybe I caught it before it got too bad. Thanks to this awesome forum, I would have never tried to wash out the water heater tank without reading it here.(tx)

What ever happened with your hot water heater and talking with the repair shop? Have you got any "final word" on the situation yet?