WD hitch play?

[audio1der]

There is a lot of slop in between the shank and receiver, and again some between the hitch head and shank. When the entire hitch assembly is in the receiver if you measure the wiggle at the back end of the ball it moves a good 3/8, almost 1/2".
I don't know about the shank into the receiver, but it seems as though maybe there should be a large washer or 2 to suck up the space between the shank and hitch head?
I'm wondering if this is multiplying across the length of the trailer partially causing the sway we encountered last fall?
We have towed it only once. It is a new truck with factory installed class IV hitch, Reese 15,000/1,500lb WD trunion style hitch with dual cam sway control.

[SteveC7010]

There is a lot of slop in between the shank and receiver, and again some between the hitch head and shank. When the entire hitch assembly is in the receiver if you measure the wiggle at the back end of the ball it moves a good 3/8, almost 1/2".
I don't know about the shank into the receiver, but it seems as though maybe there should be a large washer or 2 to suck up the space between the shank and hitch head?
I'm wondering if this is multiplying across the length of the trailer partially causing the sway we encountered last fall?
We have towed it only once. It is a new truck with factory installed class IV hitch, Reese 15,000/1,500lb WD trunion style hitch with dual cam sway control.
It might be a bit helpful for you to tell us what brand and model of hitch you have. It's difficult to help with mechanical things without knowing these things.

FWIW, if you have a standard WD like a Reese, the ball platform and shank should be rock solid with NO slop. Up until they started marketing adjustable shanks and platforms, they were always welded. The bolt together versions should be just as solid. IIRC, the bolts should be tightened to about 120 ft lb.

[Bob Landry]

Agreed. If you have slop anywhere other than where the shank goes into the receiver, you have a problem. Even that goes away when you put several hundred pounds of hitch weight on it.

Steve, I've been told 400 ft lbs on those nuts/bolts, and have read it on a couple of forums. That may or may not be correct. I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high so after i make my adjustments, I go to the local trailer shop and have them hit it with their impact wrench.

[fla-gypsy]

My Ford F-250 has some play in the shank where it fits into the receiver but not near that much. There should be no play between the hitch head and the shank. It sounds like something is definitely not right there.

[Javi]

It might be a bit helpful for you to tell us what brand and model of hitch you have. It's difficult to help with mechanical things without knowing these things.

FWIW, if you have a standard WD like a Reese, the ball platform and shank should be rock solid with NO slop. Up until they started marketing adjustable shanks and platforms, they were always welded. The bolt together versions should be just as solid. IIRC, the bolts should be tightened to about 120 ft lb.
FWIW the 3/4" bolts in my ball mount torque to 260 ftlbs...

[Hansel]

Mine has some play where it fits into the receiver, and the head assembly also has alittle play in it, but it's been that way since day one. I've tightened mine has hard as I can get, I don't have a torgue wrench:( my torgue wrench is my arm:p

[camper 2010]

Do you have a 2" receiver? Some of the HD Chevys come with a 2.5" receiver. If that is what you are talking about, then you will need an adapter.

[SteveC7010]

Agreed. If you have slop anywhere other than where the shank goes into the receiver, you have a problem. Even that goes away when you put several hundred pounds of hitch weight on it.

Steve, I've been told 400 ft lbs on those nuts/bolts, and have read it on a couple of forums. That may or may not be correct. I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high so after i make my adjustments, I go to the local trailer shop and have them hit it with their impact wrench.

Bob, I just pulled the install sheet for an adjustable ball platform WD off the Reese website. They want the torque to be 300 ft/lb. I only looked at one, but that's a good number for me and I stand corrected.

My torque wrench only goes to 120 and I've never used it on a ball platform. I have some large box end wrenches sized for the nuts and bolts on the WD system. I just stand on them and jump up and down. Since I weigh about 200#, I figure that's probably enough. :D

My Makita electric impact wrench only hits about 80 ft/lb so I don't rely on it for the big jobs.

[SteveC7010]

Mine has some play where it fits into the receiver, and the head assembly also has alittle play in it, but it's been that way since day one. I've tightened mine has hard as I can get, I don't have a torgue wrench:( my torgue wrench is my arm:p
(bold italics are mine for emphasis)

This needs to be corrected if it is a Reese or similar WD hitch! If you have it as tight as possible and it still wiggles, then it most likely is assembled incorrectly.

FWIW, when I bought the Sunline in '99, the dealership provided the WD system and set it all up. We towed it home, about 15 miles, and when I dropped the trailer, the ball was loose. They'd never torqued it up when they assembled it.

Pics please so we can take a closer look at your issue.

[audio1der]

The shank is a Reese #63970 and the 3/4" bolts are torqued to 300ft/lbs. It is a 2" 15,000/1,500lb Reese WD setup.
I was going to play with the hitch head angle to get another link of chain for my DCSC anyway so when I have them loosened I'll add a large washer to each side between the hitch head and shank. The teeth show the same # top and bottom so they're well positioned.
As for slop in the receiver to shank, could I not add some sheet metal to box in the receiver and drill out the pin hole on the sides, to suck up the slack? I know I need some flexibility on sliding it in but this is too much IMO.

FWIW for others, Reese recommends tightening to 150 ft/lbs with a torque wrench, marking the nut & base, then giving another 1/4 turn to achieve 300 ft/lbs.

[Javi]

I'm wondering if that ball mount is off a Reese Titan..?

[SteveC7010]

The shank is a Reese #63970 and the 3/4" bolts are torqued to 300ft/lbs. It is a 2" 15,000/1,500lb Reese WD setup.
I was going to play with the hitch head angle to get another link of chain for my DCSC anyway so when I have them loosened I'll add a large washer to each side between the hitch head and shank. The teeth show the same # top and bottom so they're well positioned.
As for slop in the receiver to shank, could I not add some sheet metal to box in the receiver and drill out the pin hole on the sides, to suck up the slack? I know I need some flexibility on sliding it in but this is too much IMO.

FWIW for others, Reese recommends tightening to 150 ft/lbs with a torque wrench, marking the nut & base, then giving another 1/4 turn to achieve 300 ft/lbs.
Reese's instructions vary from item to item. The one I looked up called for 300 ft/lb. with out the 1/4 turn thing.

Reese part number 63970 is the shank only. (http://reeseprod.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=3&parentid=0&catID=1635&part=63970) What is the part number for the ball platform?

Your shank is a 2" shank for the regular Reese 2x2 receivers. The tabs on the ball platform should be 2" apart. (Circled in red in the pic.) On mine, I have to get out the rubber mallet to assist the platform onto the shank. It's that snug of a fit. When the bolts are snugged up, it's one assembly with no movement.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_74945_0_6e5055c149a5cda5c7d0bc1c9984f083.jpg

If there is a measurable space between the tabs on the platform and the shank, there is a serious problem.

While I'm at it, can you also give me the actual measurements of the opening on your receiver, please?
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[audio1der]

Not sure about the Reese Titan... I bought it from the RV dealership we bought our TT from, only spoke to the parts guy over the phone about it before purchasing.
I've attached a screen capture of a video I took. My FIL's hand is holding the right hand side where the trunion bar fits in, wiggling it side to side. In the video you can hear it clanging as it hits each side. There are no outboard hangers for friction sway controllers or anything.
Does that help?
What if it IS a Titan piece- were they not designed to work with my shank/receiver?

[SteveC7010]

Not sure about the Reese Titan... I bought it from the RV dealership we bought our TT from, only spoke to the parts guy over the phone about it before purchasing.
I've attached a screen capture of a video I took. My FIL's hand is holding the right hand side where the trunion bar fits in, wiggling it side to side. In the video you can hear it clanging as it hits each side. There are no outboard hangers for friction sway controllers or anything.
Does that help?
What if it IS a Titan piece- were they not designed to work with my shank/receiver?
Here's the deal: Reese offers three distinctly different WD hitch systems; standard 2x2, Titan 2.5x2.5, and Super Titan 3x3. It is beginning to sound more and more like Javi called it right. And that's why I am asking you to measure the receiver box and the distance between the tabs of the ball platform. If the distance between the tabs on your platform is 2.5", then you have a Titan ball platform on a standard shank.

Once we know the dimensions that I have asked for, we can give you an idea of how to proceed. You might also grab the part number off the trunnion arms as well. They may be affected, too.

[audio1der]

I set a reminder for myself for after work to measure the receiver. I'm 99% sure it's 2"; I'm not a towing guru but I would have noticed a gap THAT large if it were 2.5". Besides, it's only a 1/2 ton truck and the hitch was factory installed (not dealer), and the shank is clearly labeled 2".
The trunion arms and shank/ball assembly are 3 hours away with the TT but we're going back in 3 weeks.
Thank you all for your help; will report back this evening.

[SteveC7010]

I set a reminder for myself for after work to measure the receiver. I'm 99% sure it's 2"; I'm not a towing guru but I would have noticed a gap THAT large if it were 2.5". Besides, it's only a 1/2 ton truck and the hitch was factory installed (not dealer), and the shank is clearly labeled 2".
The trunion arms and shank/ball assembly are 3 hours away with the TT but we're going back in 3 weeks.
Thank you all for your help; will report back this evening.
You are most likely correct that the receiver is a 2x2, especially factory installed on a 1500 truck. But, it's good to confirm that before moving on in the discussion.

If you have a 2.5" Titan platform, I would be a bit concerned to check that the trunnion arms are properly matched for your trailer and that they fit properly in the platform. If they are OK, and you actually do have a 2.5" Titan platform and the rest of your system is all standard 2", I'd recommend taking it back to the dealer and have him make it right at no cost to you

[audio1der]

When we go back in 3 weeks we're taking it to a nearby Keystone dealer to de-winterize, so I'll have an opportunity to not only grab pics of all the part #s, but talk to that dealer about the hitch & its play.
Maybe they know more about these these than our dealer did.
FWIW the trunion bars fir in the ball platform well.

[Bob Landry]

Bob, I just pulled the install sheet for an adjustable ball platform WD off the Reese website. They want the torque to be 300 ft/lb. I only looked at one, but that's a good number for me and I stand corrected.

My torque wrench only goes to 120 and I've never used it on a ball platform. I have some large box end wrenches sized for the nuts and bolts on the WD system. I just stand on them and jump up and down. Since I weigh about 200#, I figure that's probably enough. :D

My Makita electric impact wrench only hits about 80 ft/lb so I don't rely on it for the big jobs.

The 300# is a good number for me also, since I don't have anything to go on except what I've read on the Internet, and we know how reliable that is.

[sagebel]

When I ordered my new Reece head it came with a couple of very thin shims. I didn't need to use them but I could see if we're unable to draw the head down tight against the shank while torquing how they would be helpful.

[Hansel]

(bold italics are mine for emphasis)

This needs to be corrected if it is a Reese or similar WD hitch! If you have it as tight as possible and it still wiggles, then it most likely is assembled incorrectly.

FWIW, when I bought the Sunline in '99, the dealership provided the WD system and set it all up. We towed it home, about 15 miles, and when I dropped the trailer, the ball was loose. They'd never torqued it up when they assembled it.

Pics please so we can take a closer look at your issue.

OK measured the shank which is 2" then measured the inside of the head assembly that fits over the shank and it's 2 1/8", so I have a 1/8" worth of space for play. So you are saying its assembled incorrectly??? Are there suppose too be some washers or slims that the dealer never installed over 7 years ago???? I don't see how I could have it assembled incorrectly unless some parts are missing that I never had.

[SteveC7010]

OK measured the shank which is 2" then measured the inside of the head assembly that fits over the shank and it's 2 1/8", so I have a 1/8" worth of space for play. So you are saying its assembled incorrectly??? Are there suppose too be some washers or slims that the dealer never installed over 7 years ago???? I don't see how I could have it assembled incorrectly unless some parts are missing that I never had.
I don't think it's assembled incorrectly. It looks fine in the pic that you posted earlier.

As sagebel said, his head came with some thin shims which I suspect were there specifically for this purpose. If it was my hitch, I'd go to the hardware store and find four 1/16" thick fender washers, pull the bolts, slip the fender washers in there, reassemble and torque up the whole thing. That would remove the slop and then it would behave as a single unit without the wiggle.

Like I said earlier, mine requires a rubber mallet to "encourage" the ball platform into place on the shank. I think the shims should make yours the same way.

[audio1der]

Our head is 2" on the money so the shank must be a little smaller.
The dealer assembled & installed ours so I never saw if there were shims.

[audio1der]

Alright- got this figured out. While at a Keystone dealer to de-winterize I asked the tech about the hitch play. He suggested they had special plate spacers from Reese. We took the hitch apart and stuck one in one side between the shank drop and hitch head (couldn't fit one in each side). BAM! The hitch head is as tight as a knot in wood on the shank now.
Sorry- I didn't get the part# but here is a pic of it in place over the bolts so you get an idea of size and positioning.
(I actually found one of these in the WD hitch box in our storage when cleaning it out later, so I have a spare)
The tech said the play in the shank/receiver is normal so I guess I'm done.
Hope this helps someone else out in the future.