Suburban Water Heater - Newbie Questions

[Diceman719]

1) On my '05 Cougar 294 TT the On/Off switch in the water heater panel won't turn to the "Off" position. It won't even budge.
Right now I am plugged in to 15-amp house current (so no A/C) with a 30/15 adapter and have "city" water running from the house.
(It's sitting in my backyard. I got it yesterday and am charging the battery and checking everything out while waiting for my 30-amp extension cable so I can connect to my Dryer outlet.)
I have full propane tanks.)
The WH seems to be running fine - plenty of hot water!

But is there a reason the On/Off switch won't toggle to the Off position - besides it possibly being a bad switch?
Or does this happen *because* I have shore power connected?

2) While I'm at it, the manual seems to indicate that there's a high-temp limit programmed into the unit (180 degrees), and once it reaches that temp the manual reset will trip, shutting off the main burner.

Does this mean that every time the water gets "up to temp" I have to go outside and hit the reset buttons before it will heat water again?
(That seems.. inconvenient, to say the least...)
Or doesn't the water normally *get* to 180, and I'm creating a proverbial mountain?

Sorry for the Newbie questions - and thanks for your patience!

Ron

[B&T]

Most Dryer outlets are 220v and 30A cords have to connect to 110v not 220v. I've got to ask, Are you sure that the outlet is compatible?

[mhs4771]

If you plug into that Dryer outlet, you may have more problems than a stuck switch. While they may look the same, there is a BIG difference.

[B&T]

But is there a reason the On/Off switch won't toggle to the Off position - besides it possibly being a bad switch?
Or does this happen *because* I have shore power connected?

My last TT had a Suburban WH and it had a pin that kept the rocker switch from being turned ON my mistake. I suppose you just have a bad switch.


2) While I'm at it, the manual seems to indicate that there's a high-temp limit programmed into the unit (180 degrees), and once it reaches that temp the manual reset will trip, shutting off the main burner.

Does this mean that every time the water gets "up to temp" I have to go outside and hit the reset buttons before it will heat water again?
(That seems.. inconvenient, to say the least...)
Or doesn't the water normally *get* to 180, and I'm creating a proverbial mountain?

Having to reset is not normal.

[JRTJH]

As stated before:

The 30Amp DRYER outlet is 220 VAC. Your 30Amp RV outlet is 110VAC. If you plug your RV into the dryer vent you will destroy the RV electrical system, most of the appliances in it and possibly cause a fire. DON'T DO IT !!!!!

Is the switch that you're describing in the lower left corner of the outside of the water heater? If so, and it won't turn to OFF, then the switch is probably corroded and needs to be replaced.

The OVERTEMP safety is set at 180*F. It's purpose is to disable the water heater element if the water temperature gets to an UNSAFE temperature. The water heater operating thermostat is set to about 130*F, so the water heater will cycle off and on normally with use. The OVERTEMP safety will not cut out the heating element normally, only if the temperature reaches an unsafe temperature. So, NO you do not have to go outside and reset the water heater. If you do need to, something else is wrong, the water heater is not operating normally.

[GaryWT]

X100 on the dryer outlet, you will fry things if you do it. I keep mine plugged into a 15 amp plug all season, no problems and I have no need for AC or hot water while at home, just keeping the fridges cold.

Many hot water tanks have 2 switched for electric, the toggle on the heater and one inside, you need them both on to run it on electric but you only need one off to shut it off so check your control panel or a switch on the inside somewhat near the water heater and it is probably a way to turn it off. You can run it on gas as well without that toggle being off. As others have said the reset would be only if the water was over heated but that is not the norm.

[Diceman719]

Most Dryer outlets are 220v and 30A cords have to connect to 110v not 220v. I've got to ask, Are you sure that the outlet is compatible?

No it isn't! Thanks, everyone - y'all saved me ton of damage!
(Good thing my power cord doesn't reach, or I would have pretty much destroyed my TT yesterday!)

[Diceman719]

As stated before:

The 30Amp DRYER outlet is 220 VAC. Your 30Amp RV outlet is 110VAC. If you plug your RV into the dryer vent you will destroy the RV electrical system, most of the appliances in it and possibly cause a fire. DON'T DO IT !!!!!

Believe me, I won't!
I knew the dryer was 220v, but just didn't think about it.
(Slapping forehead)
I guess I'll need to find a close-by CG to see if the A/C works...


Is the switch that you're describing in the lower left corner of the outside of the water heater? If so, and it won't turn to OFF, then the switch is probably corroded and needs to be replaced.

Yes, it's on the bottom left. It's on and won't budge, so I'll have to replace it, I guess...
Will the WH still work strictly on gas if I'm not connected to power with this switch on?

The OVERTEMP safety is set at 180*F. It's purpose is to disable the water heater element if the water temperature gets to an UNSAFE temperature. The water heater operating thermostat is set to about 130*F, so the water heater will cycle off and on normally with use. The OVERTEMP safety will not cut out the heating element normally, only if the temperature reaches an unsafe temperature. So, NO you do not have to go outside and reset the water heater. If you do need to, something else is wrong, the water heater is not operating normally.

Ah, 130 at normal operation - thanks!

[JRTJH]

Yes the water heater will work strictly on propane. If you look in your circuit breaker panel, you will find one 15 Amp breaker that's marked WATER HEATER. You can simply turn that off and it will disable the electric element in the heater. Propane will still work normally with that breaker off.

I'd guess that the previous owner had issues with the switch on the water heater and just used the circuit breaker rather than repair it. If it were mine, I'd replace the outside switch, but anything that doesn't work as designed (or better) bugs me till I "fix it" or sell it and get another one LOL

EDIT: Oh yes, just so you know (maybe you already do) the switch in the lower left hand corner is installed UPSIDE DOWN and off is on top. There is a very small pin in the switch so it can't be turned on accidentally. If I were you, before I went much further, I'd get on my hands and knees, upside down, head cocked at an odd and uncomfortable angle and check for that pin. Remember, the pin will be in the bottom, and pushing on the bottom will turn the water heater ON. SO, if you're thinking "normal switch operation" pushing the bottom of the switch would normally turn it off, but in this case, turns it on. SO the previous owner may have turned the switch OFF and put the pin in. If so, it may be operating normally and you just need to find that TINY pin and remove it to turn the water heater on.....

[B&T]

Will the WH still work strictly on gas if I'm not connected to power with this switch on?

Yes, when using the WH on propane, 12v provides power to the WH control. The 110v switch has no effect on propane operation.