black tank flush

[moose308]

what is the proper way to use the black tank flush?

[GaryWT]

Proper, not 100% sure but when I use mine, after I dump, I hook it up and let it run awhile with the valve open. The want you to do it with the valve open, guess that part of that is so you don't forget it is on and you fill the tank. Another is anything that needs to flow out can. I generally only use mine once at the end of the season.

[SteveC7010]

what is the proper way to use the black tank flush?
The only instruction that comes with the trailer is not to run it when the dump valve is close.

This list presupposes that you have a clear fitting on the waste fitting end of your drain hose so that you can see what is draining. I do this:

Add water to the black tank just before dumping. More fluid moves stuff out better.
Open waste valve and let tank drain.
Close waste valve, turn on the flush and let it run for 5 minutes or so.
Open waste valve and let it drain, but this time with the flush running.
When the waste runs clear, shut off the flush and close the waste valve.
If you are going to continue to use the trailer, charge the black tank with several gallons of water. This allows "stuff" to float around and not build up a pyramid under the toilet drain.


If you'll use the search function, you will find a bunch of other threads on this same topic that contain a lot of discussion and information.

[JRTJH]

The "Proper" way per the instructions is to wait until the tank is "nearly full" then to pull the valve and dump the tank, after it's empty, connect the black tank flush using a separate hose (not your fresh water supply hose) and turn the water on. Allow it to rinse the tank until the effluent runs clear.

In actuality, what many of us do is pull the valve to empty the tank, turn on the water (using a different hose) and let it run for a few minutes, close the valve and allow the tank to fill at least half way, preferably nearly full (WATCH CLOSELY AND DON'T FORGET WHAT YOU'RE DOING) then pull the valve and allow the rush of water to empty the tank better. Repeat as needed until the effluent runs clear and there are no chunks remaining. Then let the water run until you're sure the tank is as clean as you can get it.

At that time, close the valve, let a couple gallons of water run into the tank, disconnect the "different hose" and pour your usual chemical concoction down the toilet followed by another couple gallons of water.

[Jim W]

I have always found this to work the best for me when empty the black tank.

Open the black tank valve let contents empty. Install a separate hose to the black tank flush connection. Turn on water and let the water spray in the tank. As the water is being sprayed in the tank fill a 5 gallon bucket with water. I use two bucket at a time but not necessary. I than dump the 5 gallon bucket of water down the toilet as the tank is flushing and emptying at the same time. I usually dump four to five buckets down the toilet each time as we empty. I have found out that the sprayer does not get everything but dumping the water down the toilet with the spray usually does the trick.

I also use a clear Flush King Connector on the end of the black tank connection.
Jim W.

[MarkS]

Our current 5er has the toilet directly over the black tank. And, I dump the black tank like the other responses above.

We have a Cougar on order with the toilet offset from the black tank. That is, there are two 45 deg. Fittings between the toilet and the tank.

Do people do anything special to clean this pipe? Flex spray?


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[JRTJH]

MarkS,

I don't think you need to do anything different. Some people prefer to use a "through the toilet" spray to clean the tank rather than the black tank device. For those people, it's either find a flexible toilet spray or change their procedures for dumping. For those of us who use the built in black tank sprayer, the procedure is essentially the same to dump, but because of the slowing of waste through the "S-turns" getting to the tank, you may need to use a little more water when flushing. Experiment with that aspect, otherwise keep doing what your'e doing.

[Rick1300]

I have always found this to work the best for me when empty the black tank.

Open the black tank valve let contents empty. Install a separate hose to the black tank flush connection. Turn on water and let the water spray in the tank. As the water is being sprayed in the tank fill a 5 gallon bucket with water. I use two bucket at a time but not necessary. I than dump the 5 gallon bucket of water down the toilet as the tank is flushing and emptying at the same time. I usually dump four to five buckets down the toilet each time as we empty. I have found out that the sprayer does not get everything but dumping the water down the toilet with the spray usually does the trick.

I also use a clear Flush King Connector on the end of the black tank connection.
Jim W.

+1

I do mine the exact same way. Works well for me.

[donwatkins]

Greetings:

I have a new Fuzion toy hauler 301TT. I used it for the first time this weekend at a local campground to test it out. All seems to work well except when I attached a host to the "black water tank flush" nothing happened. No water running anywhere so it is obvious there is a kink or issue with the water flow being restricted. We know RV manuals stink as bad as the black water. Has anyone had this issue and what did you do to resolve it. My first choice is I will do it rather than take it to dealer for warranty. Is the black water flush hose easy to get to and trace to see if there is a kink or what the issue may be?

Thanks,
Don

[SteveC7010]

Greetings:

I have a new Fuzion toy hauler 301TT. I used it for the first time this weekend at a local campground to test it out. All seems to work well except when I attached a host to the "black water tank flush" nothing happened. No water running anywhere so it is obvious there is a kink or issue with the water flow being restricted. We know RV manuals stink as bad as the black water. Has anyone had this issue and what did you do to resolve it. My first choice is I will do it rather than take it to dealer for warranty. Is the black water flush hose easy to get to and trace to see if there is a kink or what the issue may be?

Thanks,
Don

Did you check to see if there is water on the floor of your bathroom?? The vacuum breaker for the flush system usually mounted up under the sink. They are prone to breaking. Search on vacuum breaker for lots of detail info on all that.

The piping is pretty simple. It goes from the hose connection up to the vacuum breaker and then back down to the black tank. You should be able to trace most of it to see if there is a kink or other problem.

Point to consider, even if the hose is kinked, when you apply typical city water pressure to it, some water should get through.

Did you have the dump valve open when you ran the flush?

[KJcachers]

If the bottom of your trailer is enclosed the water could be laying in there as well. Eventually it will start leaking out somewhere. Don't ask me how I know.

[SteveC7010]

Greetings:

I have a new Fuzion toy hauler 301TT. I used it for the first time this weekend at a local campground to test it out. All seems to work well except when I attached a host to the "black water tank flush" nothing happened. No water running anywhere so it is obvious there is a kink or issue with the water flow being restricted. We know RV manuals stink as bad as the black water. Has anyone had this issue and what did you do to resolve it. My first choice is I will do it rather than take it to dealer for warranty. Is the black water flush hose easy to get to and trace to see if there is a kink or what the issue may be?

Thanks,
Don

One other point:If the black tank flush worked properly during the PDI, it's unlikely that the hose is now kinked.

[byrdr1]

The "Proper" way per the instructions is to wait until the tank is "nearly full" then to pull the valve and dump the tank, after it's empty, connect the black tank flush using a separate hose (not your fresh water supply hose) and turn the water on. Allow it to rinse the tank until the effluent runs clear.

In actuality, what many of us do is pull the valve to empty the tank, turn on the water (using a different hose) and let it run for a few minutes, close the valve and allow the tank to fill at least half way, preferably nearly full (WATCH CLOSELY AND DON'T FORGET WHAT YOU'RE DOING) then pull the valve and allow the rush of water to empty the tank better. Repeat as needed until the effluent runs clear and there are no chunks remaining. Then let the water run until you're sure the tank is as clean as you can get it.

At that time, close the valve, let a couple gallons of water run into the tank, disconnect the "different hose" and pour your usual chemical concoction down the toilet followed by another couple gallons of water.
I do it this way, you can hear the water running into the tank, once you do not hear it any more its time to pull the handle. Stuff will flow...

on a side note: We camped last week and after dumping all the black and cleaning the hose with bathroom grey, I pulled the sink handle grey, I saw what looked like leaves running through the clear pipe. I told the wife to run the water into the kitchen sink for a while. I think that tank for sure needs a rinse also. Something to think about down the road if I feel like pulling the plastic bottom off. We are careful about food grime and use majority of paper plates but really this was some stuff coming out of it after sitting all winter long.
randy

[JRTJH]

Byrdr1,

What you saw as "leaves" was probably mold and slime that was growing in the gray tank all winter. Probably the easiest way to get rid of it is a couple cups of clorox in the sink filled with water, then let it run down the drain and continue filling the gray tank until it's full. Let it sit overnight, drain and go on about your business. Another method is to get some swimming pool algaecide and put some down the sink and continue to fill with water. We just use the clorox method and it seems to work well for us. Normally the soapy dishwater is enough to keep the tank clear, especially is you're dumping it regularly. Algae grows in stale water that doesn't have enough soap or other inhibitors in it. Once your tanks are clean you should be OK for the season.

If you use clorox, you may want to pour a little olive oil (or other lubricant) down the drain to keep the rubber seals on the slide valve soft and supple. (Right, Ron???) :D

[byrdr1]

Byrdr1,

What you saw as "leaves" was probably mold and slime that was growing in the gray tank all winter. Probably the easiest way to get rid of it is a couple cups of clorox in the sink filled with water, then let it run down the drain and continue filling the gray tank until it's full. Let it sit overnight, drain and go on about your business. Another method is to get some swimming pool algaecide and put some down the sink and continue to fill with water. We just use the clorox method and it seems to work well for us. Normally the soapy dishwater is enough to keep the tank clear, especially is you're dumping it regularly. Algae grows in stale water that doesn't have enough soap or other inhibitors in it. Once your tanks are clean you should be OK for the season.

If you use clorox, you may want to pour a little olive oil (or other lubricant) down the drain to keep the rubber seals on the slide valve soft and supple. (Right, Ron???) :D

Thanks, I figured it was something like that.
randy

[moose308]

rechecked and water is going in black tank.I must have bad toilet valve that is causing toilet to fill up-2013 Laredo.

[Penmaker]

I bought a FloJet Macerator and use it due to some distance from my Camper to Sewage Drop. I found an interesting advantage to using the pump. It has a backflush connection right before the pump. I dump my tank (using clear 45 to view the results), Shut off the pump and backflush for about a minute, turn the water off and run the pump again. I usually do this about 3-4 times before the effluent comes out clear. I use my camper on weekends, however I will expound on this idea during "Normal" Camping Activities (such as not using the pump). I have a black water flush, but as a lot of you are saying, my vacuum breaker is malfunctioning. I am debating on whether or not to fix it or just put in an elbow instead. Any thoughts?

[geo]

John,

Absolutely correct, but personally I would drain the Clorox out, flush, and then use the olive oil! After all, Clorox ain't balsamic vinegar, you know. :p

Penmaker,

I would also think a little olive oil on the impeller and grinder on the macerator would be good. I bet John would agree! I also replaced the vacuum breaker with a brass backflow check valve (rated 200# WOG) on our Alpine. There's a post with pictures in the Mods section.

Ron

[webslave]

I do mine a little differently... As has been mentioned, I don't think there really is a "proper way".

When I pull the handle for a black tank flush, I simultaneously turn on the water for the tank rinser. The water going in on the rinser is much less than the volume of water coming out and I've found that the rinser, running while the tank is draining, tends to keep things "moving along" to the outlet. When the water starts to clear up a bit and the flow decreases, I close the black tank valve and let the rinser continue running. I have a water meter (http://www.amazon.com/AbsolutelyNew-Water-Saver-Usage-Meter/dp/B003QRLAQ2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371567793&sr=8-3&keywords=water+flow+meter) that goes on the end of the hose and it tells me, in tenths of a gallon, how much water has gone into the tank and at about 25 gallons (38 gallon tank), I, again, open the black tank valve with the rinser still running. When the tank is empty and only the rinser water is coming out (you can tell by the volume of flow), the tank is empty and clean. I then close the tank's valve and using the flow meter, let an additional 5 gallons flow into the tank. Turn the rinser off and the black tank is done.

I've always assumed that the "don't run the rinser with the tank drain closed" was to prevent overfilling and possibly rupturing the tank or flooding the trailer. I bought the flow meter to let me know how much water is going into the closed tank to prevent that, but, you do have to pay attention to the meter...I never leave sight of the meter and am usually draining the gray tanks while the black is refilling the 20-25 gallon clean flush. I don't worry about flushing the slinky with the gray water as I have a gate valve at the exit of the drains (where the cap goes) as another safety device, and I use a flush king type clear elbow that has a fitting for back flushing or hose rinsing (three position valve; back flush, off, and hose rinse). If I close the gate valve and use that hose rinse position, I can flush the slinky with clean water as opposed to gray water.

Spot on with the Clorox in the gray to kill the mold slime. I prevent it by putting a gallon of Simple Green in each gray tank along with a gallon or two of water in the empty tanks, before leaving the campground, around twice a year (middle and last trip). The Simple Green is biodegradable, but, pretty strong, and a gallon of it with a gallon or two of water sloshing around the tanks when going down the road will keep the sludge from grease and food particles from becoming an issue.

[bsleak]

hello all,
I have a 2013 Laredo 275bh that the tank flush is not working on, no water flow whatsoever. traced the line and it goes up behind the shower and back down, cant pull it back down far enough to see if its kinked or what, seems to be hanging up on shower lines and wont go past, hate to force it and break something, any advice would be greatly appreciated
thanks,
Bill

pulled shower valve out today, the check/vac break valve was right there, go figure they put it in line backwards, of course the pex fittings are also on the wrong lines one strait one 90.......I will fix this when we get back from this next quick trip... just thought i'd share that
Bill

[gearhead]

Hmmmm..I've only used the black tank flusher once. I didn't use a different hose! The tank was empty and I could hear the spray. If the water smells chitty next time, I guess I will know the source.
Seriously..I guess black tank water could get in the hose, somehow. Another trip to WalMart for a different hose!

[S&Dfz331]

Has anyone hurd of putting liquid water softener and some water in their tanks after dumping at your camp site and letting it work around in the tank while driving down the RD. It slick up the tank it helps keep it cleaned out then give it a good flush be fore storing it. I do this at least once a year and it seems to work.

[audio1der]

I just heard the water softener trick the other day.
I'm leery about putting anything except my tank chemicals down the hole in case they cause harm to the bacteria or whatever digests all the "stuff" in the tank.
And, lo and behold, despite what I considered over and above efforts, my black tank now reads full all the time. I would like to think it's the half roll of TP my 6 year old uses every time, sigh...

[geo]

There is not much "digestion" done in the holding tanks. If there was, well your nose would tell you! The chemicals are more of a deodorizer and dispersant. The black tank is not a septic tank.

With a search, you will find the following forum posts: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1611&highlight=sodium+carbonate. Putting sodium carbonate or water softener in the tank will not affect any bacteria, etc., except maybe to help it slide out.

Do let me correct the article, though. Arm and Hammer now packages Washing Soda in a YELLOW box, not blue. Don't pick up the orange box- that's sodium bicarbonate. Not the same thing.

Ron

[JRTJH]

As Ron said, the holding tank is NOT a septic system. There is really no "bacterial action" to "digest" or "break down" the contents. About the only bacterial action that does occur is the multiplication of the bacteria introduced through the toilet. That is where the "intensified smell" comes from. As the contents "perk" in the tank, they release the gasses that seep up through the toilet when flushed or get sucked into the RV through the roof vent.

Deodorizers or perfumes to cut down on the smell are what is in the chemicals sold as "black tank agents" and as "good" as they are at "covering" the smell, occasionally, even the best will have an odor problem.

Don't be "misled" into believing that your holding tank "digests" and "breaks down" the contents through bacterial or chemical action. The only "breaking down" that occurs is the occasional mechanical "churning" that happens as you tow the RV down the road.

[taylspin]

I had the same problem with my brand new Sprinter, opened waste dump valve handles, attached "other" hose to inlet, turned water on and nothing happened. There must be a valve inside somewhere that must be opened to allow water to flush tank. No water made it into tank. Unknown location. I flushed it the old fashioned way via the toilet.

[Ram189]

Has anyone hurd of putting liquid water softener and some water in their tanks after dumping at your camp site and letting it work around in the tank while driving down the RD. It slick up the tank it helps keep it cleaned out then give it a good flush be fore storing it. I do this at least once a year and it seems to work.

Before and after every season I mix a cup of bleach and 2 gallons of water. Pour it down the toilet and drive to the park where we dump the trailer then drain it out. Seems to help what little bit of smell is left over from time to time. Did it for 13 years in my TT and just did it this year in the Montana.