110V electrical outlets on Passport 2510RB?

[NH13GT]

I have a 2013 Passport GT2510RB on order, and was wondering about the electrical outlets inside it.
I have heard that there is one up under the cabinet in the kitchen, a GFI in the bathroom, one for the entertainment center, and one on each side of the bed.
It would be great to have one in the slideout near the kitchen table, and maybe another somewhere on the kitchen wall behind the counter(instead of having the cord reach up under the counter, and being totally in the way)
I was thinking I may need to have the dealer install them.
Can anyone tell me about the location of the outlets in the Passport?

[SteveC7010]

I have a 2013 Passport GT2510RB on order, and was wondering about the electrical outlets inside it.
I have heard that there is one up under the cabinet in the kitchen, a GFI in the bathroom, one for the entertainment center, and one on each side of the bed.
It would be great to have one in the slideout near the kitchen table, and maybe another somewhere on the kitchen wall behind the counter(instead of having the cord reach up under the counter, and being totally in the way)
I was thinking I may need to have the dealer install them.
Can anyone tell me about the location of the outlets in the Passport?

We just finished discussing this last week: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=7941&highlight=outlet+passport

You will want to walk through that trailer when it arrives and determine where the outlets are in your particular unit. Keystone doesn't always place outlets in the same locations from year to year and model to model.

Having the dealer install extra outlets is going to be very expensive, and if you'll look at other threads about dealers workmanship, it can be a bit of a gamble as to whether the work will be acceptable. I have enough experience with residential and RV wiring that I'd just do it myself. If that doesn't work for you, find an electrician who is willing to do 110vac work in an RV and get a quote from him before you commit having the RV dealer do it. Frankly, I'd trust a licensed electrician a lot more than I'd trust an RV service shop on something like this.

[NH13GT]

Thanks for the reply.. Yesterday I went back to the dealer and took a look at the trailer they have on display, which is the same year and model as the one we have on order.
Hopefully Keystone doesn't play around with the locations and they will be in the same places on the one we get.
There is only one outlet for the kitchen, located under the cabinet, right near the entry door. We have asked the dealer to add another one on the other side of the light next to the range hood. That way we can put the coffee pot where we want it, and run the cord down along the side range hood, and along the side of the window behind the blinds. Hopefully the cord will be long enough!
There is an outlet in the ceiling over the wardrobe next to the bathroom. I guess that could be used to plug a lamp in, or run an extension cord down so that we could plug in a floor fan or something at the dinette table.

[SlowPoke]

Hi, NH13GT.... As Steve said, yes, there was a discussion about the Passport recepts in the thread he mentioned.

Also, as time has gone by, I have posted a few mods and recept comments myself as to what I've done with my passport, there are some pics as well (you'll have to search around the threads for them, but they are there)

Also, I assume you're not comfortable with electrical, but it will do you well, to find a friend, who knows a little about 110, to check the install from the dealer. I have not been too happy with the type receptacles they use (stab-in quick wire) and have replaced what I feasibly could. Sometimes the space they are installed (like below cabinets) dictate the necessity for a thin mount (stab-in) receptacle. Be leary of those, and my best advice is not to use those to plug in high load appliances like a toaster, heater, etc because the connections are meager inside the receptacles. Trust only screw fastened wires on receptacles for heavier loads as the connections are better (if installed correctly) and can handle the usage.

To read through some of my posts click here (http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/search.php?do=finduser&u=8106)

[Bob Landry]

I'm also amazed at the lack of kitchen outlets as that's where you need them the most. I'm particularly amazed by the fat that the only one is under the upper cabinet so that the cord is going to hang down in the way. I can't think of a way to do it that would look any tackier. I guess it's the bean counters doing this, since that's the easiest way to run wire for it.

Most KS trailers are going to have an outdoor outlet on the curb side.
Your floor plan shows all of the kitchen cabinetry to be on the same side(fridge, furnace, water heater), so that makes it easy to add an outlet in the galley. My Outback has an outlet by the forward door and being an outdoor outlet, it's already GFCI protected. I tied into that outlet and fished the wire through the cabinets and under the kitchen counter to the end of the cabinet. I put an outlet on the end of the counter, facing the door. The coffee maker lives there and the cord stays out of the way. To me the outside outlet is the most logical to use, not only because it's the easiest to tie in to, but it's already GFCI protected and that saves you around $15. I used marine stranded fire instead of the usual cheap romex because it's easier to pull and bend around to tie wrap out of the way so you don't have wire dangling under the cabinet. It's an easy project and I wouldn't pay a dealer to do it. But then, I've done all of the electrical mods on my trailer.

[SlowPoke]

I'm particularly amazed by the fact that the only one is under the upper cabinet so that the cord is going to hang down in the way.The funny thing is UL standards allow for only a 2' cord on kitchen appliances, and toasters, coffee pots, crock pots, etc will NOT REACH those darn under cabinet receptacles. I personally hate running extension cords on the kitchen counter...so I added 2 , 1 on each end of the counter... below the lip of the counter. (I ran the circuit to the converter/breaker box, and added a GFCI breaker I had floating around in the shed....)

[GaryWT]

I always thought the outlet under the cabinet made sense. It is out of the way and it keeps the cord off the work surface. On the other hand I do not use them much at all so have not really tested it. As you add outlets just remember the outside walls are thinner than electrical box and the walls are filled so you cannot run wire. Like others said, run it from an existing outlet that you can get to. As for the slide it must be tough to run a wire in and out without having it pinched or get worn.

[SlowPoke]

As for the slide, it's actually not bad, IF you can hit the right entry point...but you'd have to run the slide back and forth a few times, and check where the best non obstructed section would be. I did it in mine, and it's working very well.

[muddynoll]

I just bought a power strip and ran the cord under the cabnet,down the corner beside the stove , and mounted it to the wall behind the stove. we have a metal stove cover and use it as counter space. thats where we put the coffee pot. Its a cheap approach but it does'nt look bad if done neatly and gives easy access to an outlet for those short corded appliances.