A few winter Mods finished!

[bigracenut]

I added another pair of BAL stabalizer jacks to the center on each side, just in of my front axle on my 33' Sprinter to help keep the "bounce" out while parked. I actually tried this out on our last camping trip last fall and it worked great!

The sewer hose storage was finished and I installed it last week. I used 4 3/4" fence tubes and painted them black when done. It matched the undercarriage nicely and it is mounted next to my sewer dump. The 4 3/4 tube allows for my sewer tubes to retain the end couplers when i am done and ready to store, instead of having to break the hose and coupler apart, plus it keeps that wet hose out of my steel bumper and prevents it from rusting inside. My sewer hose is now closer to my sewer dump for easier access.

I am also building my own clothes line that attaches to my rear bumper for beach towels to dry on!!

I have several other mods in the works, and I got most of all of these ideas from this forum. Thanks for the great experinces and ideas you all share!!

[rode2nowhere]

looks good, need to do the sewer hose mod to mine, the coupling wont fit in the bumper for storage.

[raytronx]

Thanks for posting. I'm looking to do the sewer hose mod soon. My hose fits the bumper but would be nice to have it near the outlet.

Ray

[ThePressureIsOn]

Nice mods. The sewer hose holder will be my next mod. Is that a Rhinoflex sewer hose? That is the brand that I have and it won't fit into a standard 4 X 4 fence post cover. Did you purchase a standard 6 X 6 vinyl fence post cover or something else? Painting it black makes it blend in well.

The DW also wants something to dry wet towels on. Please let us know what you come up with and thanks for the great pics.

[bigracenut]

Yes, It is a Rhino hose. The trailer bumper is only 4 X 4....... I used the 4 3/4 X 4 3/4 fence post from Lowes. It fits without removing the end couplers from the hose. I tilted it 1" to let any water drain out after I rince the hose prior to storing it in the tube.

I have a nice clothes line completed and will mount it this weekend. I'll post a pic for you when done.

I also painted my sewer dump handle grey for the grey tank side. I knew after the decals disappeared over time, this would stop any confusion when anyone but me decided to dump the tanks.

[Andymon]

I made the rhino tube also. I used a 5" post and then inserted a vinyl gutter into it. Can be accessed from both ends and I'll attach it to the frame from one side to the other.

[bigracenut]

Nice Job!!!..... I like the sliding gutter idea, but i knew if I mounted mine inline with my frame, I wouldn't have room for the slide to come out so close to my sewer dump. But I like how you did that one! Have you installed it yet?

[Andymon]

Nice Job!!!..... I like the sliding gutter idea, but i knew if I mounted mine inline with my frame, I wouldn't have room for the slide to come out so close to my sewer dump. But I like how you did that one! Have you installed it yet?

No, not installed yet. Maybe next weekend. The sewer dump in under the slide but the tube will go just in front of the slide. I'll have to hook up the rhino before i put the slide out.

[ThePressureIsOn]

Thanks for the reply race. I didn't know that a 5 X 5 post sleeve was available. A 6 X 6 X 8 post sleeve is $150 around here, so that makes the 5 X 5 X 8, for $22, a bargain. I love this forum.:D

[JRTJH]

Thanks for the reply race. I didn't know that a 5 X 5 post sleeve was available. A 6 X 6 X 8 post sleeve is $150 around here, so that makes the 5 X 5 X 8, for $22, a bargain. I love this forum.:D

Home Depot has the 5x5 8ft long white posts for $24. Be careful which end caps you buy. There are two types, one is $2 and one is $7. The expensive ones didn't seem to fit as tightly when I bought mine, so I went CHEEP LOL Lowes only had the expensive end caps when I was buying.

[SlowPoke]

I really like that setup, I used to have a 6" PVC conduit with caps, but gave it away before I knew I'd get another TT (I kick myself constantly!!!) . This looks like something inexpensive I will have to do! Thanks for the idea...never thought to use a fence post!

[f6bits]

Which BAL stabilizers are those? The trailer wobble we get when parked isn't a big enough deal to make me get full blown stabilizers like StrongArms. Something like that might be nice (and optional). Plus, with a drill, they're a snap to raise and lower.

I swear I did't see affordable vinyl fence posts last time I checked Home Depot. I *so* need to get my sewer tube act in order: 15 footer with 5 foot extension and a 5 footer for my grey water tote.

[f6bits]

Why is your fence post cut in half?

And what are those brackets you used?

How'd you do your hinge setup?

[ThePressureIsOn]

Thanks for the heads up JRTJH. I had to special order a 5 X 5 from Lowes, we don't have a Home Depot in town. I also ordered the caps for $4 each. Before I leave I will make sure that the caps fit well.

Andymon, I like your sewer hose storage holder. Slide out the gutter and it's right there.

It looks like everyone is using pop rivets, good idea. For my last TT I used ss, ($$) hardware.

Thanks to all for your great ideas/suggestions.

[JRTJH]

Make sure to install the pop rivets "inside out". That way you have the hinge to act as additional backing to prevent cracking the vinyl. Also, there isn't enough clearance between the post and the cap to install them with the "pop" part on the hinge side. Look closely at the pictures in this thread and you'll see how they are installed. The small cut out makes it easier to close the cap, but I didn't cut that out and it seems to work just fine. The vinyl post will bend inward just enough to allow the cap with the latch to close completely.

[GaryWT]

Looks good, might look into the jacks as our last trailer moved but we had electronic jacks, with the normal ones we will wait to see how it is before adding.

Sewer hose, looks good, have not seen it down the side before. I bought a 6 inch pvc, caps and metal strapping, just need to put it all together and install within the next 2 months. Currently sewer house is in a rubbermaid container in storage compartment, someone once told me not to use the bumper as it will rust out plus I do not think it is big enough.

[hankpage]

Looks good, might look into the jacks as our last trailer moved but we had electronic jacks, with the normal ones we will wait to see how it is before adding.

Sewer hose, looks good, have not seen it down the side before. I bought a 6 inch pvc, caps and metal strapping, just need to put it all together and install within the next 2 months. Currently sewer house is in a rubbermaid container in storage compartment, someone once told me not to use the bumper as it will rust out plus I do not think it is big enough.

I have found that the main problem with bumper storage is the rusty metal wares holes in those expensive hoses very quickly. May work fine for folks who only travel a few hundred miles a year but one long trip and you need a new hose. :mad:

[ThePressureIsOn]

Make sure to install the pop rivets "inside out". That way you have the hinge to act as additional backing to prevent cracking the vinyl. Also, there isn't enough clearance between the post and the cap to install them with the "pop" part on the hinge side. Look closely at the pictures in this thread and you'll see how they are installed. The small cut out makes it easier to close the cap, but I didn't cut that out and it seems to work just fine. The vinyl post will bend inward just enough to allow the cap with the latch to close completely.

Thanks for the heads up JRTJH. I've forgotten how far a pop rivet sticks out.(tx)

[Andymon]

Thanks for the heads up JRTJH. I had to special order a 5 X 5 from Lowes, we don't have a Home Depot in town. I also ordered the caps for $4 each. Before I leave I will make sure that the caps fit well.

Andymon, I like your sewer hose storage holder. Slide out the gutter and it's right there.

It looks like everyone is using pop rivets, good idea. For my last TT I used ss, ($$) hardware.

Thanks to all for your great ideas/suggestions.

I ended up using pop rivets and some small bolts as I ran out of rivets.:banghead:

[SteveC7010]

Thanks for the reply race. I didn't know that a 5 X 5 post sleeve was available. A 6 X 6 X 8 post sleeve is $150 around here, so that makes the 5 X 5 X 8, for $22, a bargain. I love this forum.:D

Post sleeves, regardless of size, are available in at least two different materials.

First and most expensive is composite which is a mixture of plastics and stabilized wood byproducts. The surfaces of composite decking and railing components are usually high grade UV resistant vinyl. The stuff is nearly identical to Trex and other composite decking materials. I just did our new deck with composite railings so I am painfully aware of the increased cost. DW just had to have it, though.

Second, and far more economical is the all vinyl or PVC sleeving and accessories for fence and railing systems.

I believe this is where and why you folks are seeing large price differentials that seem out inconsistent.

[f6bits]

Ok, my sewer hose has a new home. No pictures, as it was a busy mod morning.

I got the 5x5 post and it's plenty large for my hoses. I drilled small holes and used hitch pin clips since I had limited time. I used that metal strip tape with the holes in it and strapped it across my frame just to the rear of my dump valves. I used existing bolts that hold up the coroplast.

The one thing I learned is that I cut my post a little short. 1) Life is easier if the ends extend past the mount points by a few inches. 2) My 15' Rhino and 5' Extension needed some cramming to get the ends to close.

[ThePressureIsOn]

I will be getting our TT out of storage next weekend. You guys are making this mod way too easy for me.(tx)

[chartrand]

I think I saw others had drilled drain holes along the bottom. Is this a good idea to do?

[JRTJH]

I drilled about 10 1/4" holes along the edges at both sides of the bottom. Some other's simply mounted theirs on an angle so it drains when you open the door or out the other end, depending on the angle. I'd suggest some type of way to get water out, either holes along the bottom or installing on an angle.

[f6bits]

Hard right and left turns should do the job. Especially those 270° freeway ramps. I figure what little there is will run out the ends.

I drilled about 10 1/4" holes along the edges at both sides of the bottom. Some other's simply mounted theirs on an angle so it drains when you open the door or out the other end, depending on the angle. I'd suggest some type of way to get water out, either holes along the bottom or installing on an angle.

[iamrwnut]

Cannot wait to get the TT out of storage and do this. I have been struggling with what to do with my hoses. This is perfect.

[f6bits]

I need to double-check my storage location, but someone at ModMyRV said that mounting the fence post laterally across the middle of their black tank caused it to crack due to rubbing.
http://www.modmyrv.com/2008/12/20/sewer-hose-storage-tube#comment-2662

Has anybody heard of this issue?

[mobile42]

I need to double-check my storage location, but someone at ModMyRV said that mounting the fence post laterally across the middle of their black tank caused it to crack due to rubbing.
http://www.modmyrv.com/2008/12/20/sewer-hose-storage-tube#comment-2662

Has anybody heard of this issue?



Hello f6bits,

That was my post I did way back in 2010. I was wondering if that would ever catch someone attention. It was bad :eek: when it happen and I hope it never happens to any other RV'er out there!

I just read on this particular thread that "cabinfever" also did this modification and was so happy with it but I also quoted on it.