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Old 07-16-2013, 04:57 PM   #1
therink
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Alright sewage experts, black tank valve won't close all the way.

My rig is about 4 months old now. Yeah, I know it's under warranty but I prefer to fix myself. My cable operated valve won't close all the way. It has worked smoothly until yesterday when dumping full tank and super flushing it. The handle won't go in the last 1/2" therefore now drips.
I am real anal about flushing and using plenty of water so I don't believe lack of maintenance is an issue.
When I got home yesterday, I opened a flap in the belly and exposed the valve. I also super flushed the tank again to remove all residual poo I could and drip emptied it.
Before I try removing the valve to inspect/clean/repair it, I thought I would check with you to see if I should try something else first. I hate to disrupt the valve assembly if I don't need to.
I have thought that maybe the round disc from the factory maybe lodged in there as I think the tank drained a bit slower the last 2 dump events. Can I try putting a garden hose up the tube and flush it out?
Secondly, is there a linkage adjustment on the cable that may have moved or slipped out of adjustment?
I don't believe the cable is seized or needs lubricant as it has always moved very smooth until now.
Thanks for feedback.
Steve
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2013 Outback Sydney 340FBH (12,280 lbs loaded-scale)

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Old 07-17-2013, 02:50 AM   #2
therink
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Anyone have input?
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2015 GMC Sierra Denali 3500HD, SRW, Duramax, CC, SB (payload 3700)

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...65/340FBH1.jpg
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Old 07-17-2013, 03:16 AM   #3
Essness
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I have one of these,

http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-F02-4...m_cr_pr_sims_i

If there is something stuck be the valve, this wouls beat putting a hose up there.
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:12 AM   #4
billb800si
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Here’s a dual flush tank system with a gate valve included. There’s also a video on its operation just click on the small photo left of the product photo on the page.
It’s nice having a gate valve as part of the total unit.
Good luck,

click here: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-39062-Fl...ds=drain+flush
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:15 AM   #5
hankaye
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therink, Howdy;

Don't have any experience with the cable variety of valves.
Mine have all been solid connector rod types. That said, you
may have either jammed something (a wad of un-dissolved TP),
into the gap between the seals or rolled an edge of one of the seals.
Only one way to see ...

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Old 07-17-2013, 07:33 AM   #6
hankpage
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Steve, Since you have already opened the belly of the beast you should be able to see if the valve is traveling all the way. If it is and still dripping then hankaye is most likely correct (as usual) and you will have to open the valve for repair. Good luck and let us know what you find. It is a fairly easy repair but not very pleasant.
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:56 AM   #7
therink
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Thanks for the responses.
I am hoping the infamous plastic disk isn't in there from Gilligan at the factory (when he drilled the rank to at toilet or vent pipe. Whatever the valve is hitting, it feels hard.
I will let you know what I find.
Steve
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:57 AM   #8
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Looks to me to be a good excuse to buy a tool:

Borescope/Snake camera
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003629WRQ

There are better name brands, but this one gets excellent reviews considering the price.

I've seen similar, probably more expensive ones at my local Home Depot, too.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:09 AM   #9
hankpage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twstdpear View Post
Looks to me to be a good excuse to buy a tool:

Borescope/Snake camera
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003629WRQ

There are better name brands, but this one gets excellent reviews considering the price.

I've seen similar, probably more expensive ones at my local Home Depot, too.
They don't work very well when everything is colored black. The lights just are not bright enough. They are good inside heat ducts and walls. And unless you spend $$$$$$ they are not long enough.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:41 AM   #10
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You may want to put some stool softener through the system to see if that helps.
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