x-chocks loosening when unhitching and hitching

[jmgintc]

Hi folks. Did a search with no results so excuse me if I missed something. We're using X-chocks on our 290RLS and have an issue. We set the chocks before dropping the landing gear but have noticed they loosen when raising to unhitch. After we level, we retighten the chocks. We're concerned if we're on any amount of slope, the trailer could roll enough to damage the landing gear. We have a set of plastic wedge chocks that we also use but have noticed that we can have the same issue with them. It appears the axles are separating (?) enough to loosen them. Looking for suggestions before disaster strikes! Thanks.

[RJS3791RD]

I use a large double sided rubber chock between each wheel on each side until we unhitch and level. Once I am level, I set my X chocks. In my experience, if I set the X-chocks before unhitching and leveling, they will get very loose. This is due to the change in the suspension that takes place when you unhitch and level the unit, ultimately changing the space between the axles. I also take my X chocks out FIRST, when I begin my hitch process. If you don’t, they will get VERY tight when you retract the leveling system.

NOTE: my rubber chocks stay in place from the time the unit stops until the time I am ready to pull out.

[NH_Bulldog]

Are you retightening the x-chocks after 12-24 hours? If you install them when the tires are hot from traveling, the tires cool after resting and the chocks loosen.

[JRTJH]

This statement is included with every set of X-chocks. It's very often "missed by buyers" but is an IMPORTANT step in setup and teardown. Failure can lead to damage to your tires as well as damage to the X-chocks.

"NOTE: BAL’s chocks are designed for locking trailer tires when camping. They should be put in place after disconnecting from your tow vehicle and after putting down your stabilizing jacks. They should be removed prior to hooking up to your tow vehicle. Failure to do so may damage your chocks. To avoid undesired trailer movement when disconnecting or hooking up to your tow vehicle, a tire “wedge” should be firmly placed behind one, or preferably both rear trailer tires."

To explain, when you set the X-chocks, you "lock" your tires so they will not turn or roll. When you raise the tongue of the trailer, you put forces on the frame that make the tires "roll against the X-chocks" which can twist and bend the X-chock or worse, tear the tire tread away from the carcass, causing tread separation which will cause the tire to "self destruct" next time you tow the trailer and the centrifugal forces finish the tread separation.

In short, what you're doing by setting the X-chocks before unhitching is "not the recommended process".

Here is the insert that used to be in every box of X-chocks, but has since been eliminated for some reason.

[SargeW]

I have a few observations. What manufacturer chock were you using? I was using the economy black chocks at first that I purchased on Amazon. They failed easily with minimal pressure. The failure point was a stamped little "star" wheel between the two gears that moved the pressure arms back and forth. After the second pair failed I knew I had to find another solution.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
The better solution was pair of chocks made by BAL. The construction is much heavier than the cheap ones I had earlier, but also cost almost twice as much. Their holding power is much better and work smoother. I did need to lube the center screw shaft when they arrived, as the lube oil that they are delivered with dries up and creates friction. A quick spray with any decent lube is all that is needed for them to work easily. To make application fast and easy I do use a cut off tool with a angle head on it to speed the application process.

HOWEVER both BAL, and the maker of the cheaper chocks state that the chocks are not intended to prevent trailer from rolling on a slope. They are designed to control the back and forth motion that occurs when walking around inside. A good set of hard rubber chocks are made to prevent trailer roll and should be applied one behind a set of tires on the same side so the trailer cannot easily move forward or back.

The other issue is that the suspension that Lippert uses can have a "toggle" type of connection point for the front and rear leaf springs. What can occur is that the suspension can shift back and forth allowing the chock to shift.

[jmgintc]

Interesting! I bought this set of BAL X-Chocks for a Lance that had independent double axles and never had this problem, and of course, thinking "any idiot can see how to use these" so never ever thought of reading the instructions. Thanks so much for enlightening me!

[jmgintc]

Thanks RJS3791RD, what's the make/model of the rubber chocks you're using? Mine are the cheapo ones for Camping World and they will actually slip on a hard surface.

[RollaMo]

Yeah, don't use those cheap plastic ones.

Best deal on some good solid rubber ones I've seen are at Harbor Freight.
They have two different kinds.



Quite a few more choices on Amazon too.
Just do a search for Rubber Wheel Chocks
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rubber+wh..._ts-doa-p_1_11

[RJS3791RD]

I’ve had mine for 25 years or so. Unfortunately, I can’t remember even where I got them the listing from Harbor Freight attached above a looks like the ones I use. I have the double sided that I use between the axles.

[Roo-ster]

Since I didn’t see any mention in the replies I wanted to add one additional piece of information. These x-chocks were never designed to replace traditional wheel chocks. X-chocks were designed to help eliminate front to back sway of the RV. Using these to replace the wedge or block style wheel chocks is a recipe for a run away trailer. Every manufacturer of x-chocks states in their documentation these are for sway control only. Naming these chocks is very misleading. Please do your research. There are many videos on YouTube and from the manufacturers telling us not to use these in lieu of traditional wheel chocks.

[LHaven]

Not being a motorhead, I too was taken unawares to discover that the space between the tires is nowhere near constant. It affected not only the X chocks I tried to use for a while, but also my ONESTEP step-upon chock. So I've taken to using the cheap plastic chocks while hitching and unhitching, then replacing them with the ONESTEP chock before putting out the slide. And if that chock isn't snug, I don't let it bother me, because it's only for roll protection, and unless I'm in the process of hitching or unhitching my stabilizers are down so I'm not going to roll anyway. The reason I don't use just our plastic chocks for everything is because my dogs consider their rope a tug toy, but apparently the ONESTEP unit lacks the same appeal.

[SargeW]

Originally Posted by Roo-ster

Since I didn’t see any mention in the replies I wanted to add one additional piece of information. These x-chocks were never designed to replace traditional wheel chocks. X-chocks were designed to help eliminate front to back sway of the RV. Using these to replace the wedge or block style wheel chocks is a recipe for a run away trailer. Every manufacturer of x-chocks states in their documentation these are for sway control only. Naming these chocks is very misleading. Please do your research. There are many videos on YouTube and from the manufacturers telling us not to use these in lieu of traditional wheel chocks.

I guess you missed this paragraph a few posts above

HOWEVER both BAL, and the maker of the cheaper chocks state that the chocks are not intended to prevent trailer from rolling on a slope. They are designed to control the back and forth motion that occurs when walking around inside. A good set of hard rubber chocks are made to prevent trailer roll and should be applied one behind a set of tires on the same side so the trailer cannot easily move forward or back.

[Cruizer]

They are the last item you put on after leveling, unhooking. That's why they come loose.