Control Board for Dometic DM2652

AlCorr · 07-11-2015, 08:56 AM

Can anyone help me please? I have a Dometic DM2652 RV Refrigerator. It wouldn't work on electric (work fine on gas). I tested the electric heating element and it was broken so I replaced it. The new heating element tests good and is installed. Now the auto lite won't go on. The refrigerator still works on gas but not on electric. Should I replace the control board?

Festus2 · 07-11-2015, 09:34 AM

Remove the cover on the circuit board and check the fuses inside.

AlCorr · 07-11-2015, 09:45 AM

Thanks, but the fuses test good.

Javi · 07-11-2015, 10:16 AM

Are you by any chance plugged into shore power... if so... unplug and see if it works..

OR... is your battery low... it takes a full 12V for the igniter to work..

AlCorr · 07-11-2015, 11:43 AM

I tried that, it wouldn't work on shore power ac, 110volt (it works fine on gas).

Javi · 07-11-2015, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlCorr

I tried that, it wouldn't work on shore power ac, 110volt (it works fine on gas).

Yeah, I misread your post as it had quit working on propane.. Sorry

Are you getting power to the heating element?

AlCorr · 07-11-2015, 01:47 PM

No, I don't think I'm getting power to the heating element, because when I turn on the refrigerator, (with the gas only on or off), the Auto lite doesn't go on and in 5-10 seconds I hear the gas lighting. This is what makes me think it's the control board. Anyway, I just ordered a new control board on line, another $85 down the drain.

ChuckS · 07-12-2015, 07:48 PM

Might be too late to help you but check out this link... It's the service manual for the 2652

http://www.nancyemmert.com/region6/R...atorManual.pdf

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

byrdr1 · 07-13-2015, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckS

Might be too late to help you but check out this link... It's the service manual for the 2652

http://www.nancyemmert.com/region6/R...atorManual.pdf

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

great resource for me.
It would helped with my frig a year ago. but cool now.
thanks
randy

taboky · 07-14-2015, 11:28 PM

Is AC even getting to the fridge? Check circuit breaker?

rjsurfer · 07-15-2015, 12:18 AM

Disconnect heater from control board and hook it directly to 110v ac.

Easy to do and is the definitive test of the heater.

Ron W

AlCorr · 07-16-2015, 10:56 AM

I've replaced the heating element and the control board. It still doesn't work on shore power ac, 110volt, works good on gas and still the Auto lite will not come on.

I need help.

rjsurfer · 07-17-2015, 12:16 AM

Does the heating element get hot? Can you measure the current draw on the element?

Remember in hot weather it can take 5 plus hours before cooling can be noticed, gas will come on quicker. Gas has more BTU's than the element.

jsmith948 · 07-17-2015, 05:10 AM

Our 2652 is plugged into a 110v receptacle in the outside refer compartment. That receptacle is controlled by the same circuit breaker as the w/h. Our refer will run on gas with no power to this receptacle. Learned this when we had the w/h breaker off in order to avoid using the outside w/h rocker switch. Tried precooling the refer on a/c and the 'check' light came on (propane was off at the bottle). Opened the propane valve and the refer fired on propane. Checked the 110v receptacle and traced lack of power to the w/h breaker. Do you have 110ac to the control board? Just a place to start

AlCorr · 07-29-2015, 07:59 AM

I pulled the switch panel (inside, top of fridge) to see if all the wires were connected, everything looked good, put it back together, plugged it in to shore power and the Auto lite comes on. I gave it about 6 hours and it works. Hope it keeps working.

Thank you all for the advise.

AlCorr · 08-08-2015, 05:07 AM

It's still working, but if I hit the gas only button a little, the auto lite blinks on a and off, maybe there is a short in the switch. I'll have to keep a eye on it. What happens when I'm going bump tee bump down the road. Maybe I should just replace the whole thing.

**JRTJH** · 08-08-2015, 07:49 AM

If you're handy with a soldering iron and have the experience to remove/replace the switch, it's a fairly simple process. You can order the switch from many "on line electronics parts distributors" or possibly find it at Radio Shack. The part number is listed in the IPB in your owner's manual. Use that part number to do a Google search and you should find several options to locate a replacement.

If you don't feel comfortable with the R&R, then buying a new "eyebrow board" is also an option. Or, alternatively, since you "know it's that switch", you can, if needed, "limp along" by checking the refrigerator at each stop. For most of us, the refrigerator will stay cold (when towing) for at least 4 or 5 hours, so it's not really "critical" to have it operating the entire tow. I realize that will soon become a hassle, but you could "use it as it is" until it starts failing on a regular basis, then, if that happens, buy the board at that time.

Good Luck,

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