|
|
02-08-2017, 07:08 AM
|
#21
|
Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,741
|
FWIW the hot water heater in our house did what sounds similar. I say similar because I found water on the floor, turned off the gas and was was preparing to drain the tank. After removing the water no leak. Turned the gas on, ignited the heater and a few minutes later water on the floor. The tank had a hairline crack that opened up when the metal expanded from heat. With a small 5 or 6 gal heater often it will only call for heat when the tap is opened. . Hope this helps.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
|
|
|
02-08-2017, 07:50 AM
|
#22
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Great Falls, MT
Posts: 322
|
So this may or may not be of any help to you. But I had a Jayco several years ago and at the time the unit was about 2 years old and I owned since it was new. My HW tank was leaking. Like you I checked all of the lines and fitting and it was seeping from around the styrofoam. Pull your HW tank out. Remove it from the styrofoam. If there is a white chalky substance the you will see where it is coming from. My 2 year old tank had a pin hole in it. As the water heater was in it builds pressure and it would leak. It's worth a look at... FWIW. Good luck
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
2016 Alpine 3601RS
6500 Onan
2016 Chevrolet 2500 LTZ/Z71
|
|
|
02-08-2017, 08:33 AM
|
#23
|
Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,671
|
Thanks everyone. I think it may be the hairline crack, or pinhole, that is opening when heated. I, like Javi, just couldn't believe the tank could be at fault but I've done extensive testing and find no other leak. What I have found is this; the tank appears to be leaking all the time but only a small amount when not showering. I've placed dry towels along the side where it seeps out and it only gets wet next to the cutout in the foam under the water tank - not anywhere close to all the water connections. When we shower we always turn on both the electric and propane to the water heater and it leaks more. This leads me to the assumption that some sort of crack is opening when under heat as flybouy mentioned. It sounds crazy to me but now I'm at the point that the only way to see for sure is to pull the tank I guess. If I do so I want a new one on hand so I don't do this twice. Looks like I can't get one until the first of next week so will keep messing with it in the hopes some revelation will happen and I find the problem. Again, I really appreciate everyone's input.
|
|
|
02-08-2017, 09:01 AM
|
#24
|
Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,981
|
If you do replace the water heater (and it sounds like that's where you're thinking of heading), remember that you've got two options. Replace the entire system or replace the tank. It will be much easier to replace the entire system (about $450) and much less expensive to replace the tank only (about $200). Depending on the condition of your other components, your wallet and your "determination not to spend more than necessary" (frugality), you might want to explore options beyond a complete water heater replacement.....
Frustrating? Heck yes. Last fall while winterizing, I noticed a couple of small black flecks coming out of the water heater. My guess is (really I know but don't want to admit it) that the porcelain tank lining is cracked. So, it looks like I'll be facing a tank leak once corrosion eats through the tank wall.
My last several RV's never had a water heater issue, I guess they just aren't making them like they used to....
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
|
|
|
02-08-2017, 09:38 AM
|
#25
|
Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Western PA
Posts: 2,732
|
Good to hear you found the problem but disappointing to hear you have to replace the tank. Just curious, if you are replacing the entire system, have you looked into or considered replacement with the new on demand tanks. Think I read they are direct replacements and think in was a Suburban. Then again it could have been another senior moment I remember, here I go again, a couple years back we had a thread on the on demand water heaters, interesting posts In general when I replace a component I check around to see if there is an upgrade that would benefit me.
I have to agree with you still really can not get a handle why , guess may find out when the unit is removed Good Luck
__________________
2013 RAPTOR 300MP w/Rear Patio Deck NO Folding Side Ladder
2013 Silverado 3500HD LTZ CC LB 4X4 DRW
Duramax 6.6L Turbo Diesel; Allison Trans
Reese 20K; Carlisle Radial Trail RH/HD; TPMS (12 Tires)
Veteran
PSU (GO LIONS)
|
|
|
02-08-2017, 12:26 PM
|
#26
|
Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,671
|
Yes, at the moment it appears I will replace the entire unit. Sitting here in the RV park I don't want to get into a lot of retrofitting - as close to plug and play as I can get and I will be happy.
I don't think we will go with an on demand heater. They have some drawbacks including the price. The house we've been renovating in Tallahassee for my granddaughter has one for the entire house and I've not been impressed. We've never had an issue with running out of hot water in the RV so in my mind "if it ain't broke don't fix it". It is an appealing idea but I just don't think it would be a benefit for us and the way we operate.
I'm still watching the heater and it still very much appears the water is coming from somewhere between the tank and the styrofoam. I'm hoping I can see the problem when removed because it sure looks new to me
Thanks again to all for the help and thoughts.
Danny
|
|
|
02-08-2017, 01:46 PM
|
#27
|
Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Western PA
Posts: 2,732
|
Not to deviate too much from the original post, in the stick and brick home I updated from the conventional tank water heater to a ON Demand unit and love it. Always interested me how one uses the conventional HW system, some quantity of water is heated in a tank using some form of energy (2 resources). Then when we go to use it excluding say dishwashers, we use another amount of cold water(resource) to cool it off to the desired temp say 77 degrees, now using 3 resources 2 water and a heating source
With the on Demand you set the desired temp on the remote again say 77 degrees, and open a single HW spigot (2 resources; 1 water and 1 heating source). Basically not heating water then cooling it later to use it Yes there is a minimum flow to trigger the unit on. See what happens when you retire, too much time to think
I agree choose best method to GET IT DONE Have to say this is a weird one would also drive me crazy
__________________
2013 RAPTOR 300MP w/Rear Patio Deck NO Folding Side Ladder
2013 Silverado 3500HD LTZ CC LB 4X4 DRW
Duramax 6.6L Turbo Diesel; Allison Trans
Reese 20K; Carlisle Radial Trail RH/HD; TPMS (12 Tires)
Veteran
PSU (GO LIONS)
|
|
|
02-08-2017, 02:04 PM
|
#28
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Great Falls, MT
Posts: 322
|
Good luck and let us k ow what you find when you pull it
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
2016 Alpine 3601RS
6500 Onan
2016 Chevrolet 2500 LTZ/Z71
|
|
|
02-08-2017, 04:52 PM
|
#29
|
Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,671
|
Yeah, I think the on demand has a few parameters that I don't want to mess with in the RV. I don't think we would gain anything (for us) by trying that upgrade. And you're right; after 11 years of retirement I've found I do have the time to think too much.....and now, I've thought so much my brain is so full I can't remember much of anything...but, back to what we were talking about.... I will post what I find and the results of all this.
|
|
|
02-16-2017, 09:21 PM
|
#30
|
Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,671
|
Finally got the new water heater in yesterday and replaced it today. As mentioned before it was just a small leak that appeared to increase when hot water was run. Took the old heater out and it looks like (and felt like - water residue) that the leak was coming from a weld on one of the bungs for the water inlets. It looked like a hot "something" had been laid on top of the weld and literally melted a part of it literally melting the weld that was holding it together....and making it water tight. Kind of crazy. It's been installed and working for several hours with no leaks so hoping all I OK.
I've always loved Dometic/Atwood but looking at the water heater with all the stuff removed makes me wonder...........
|
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|