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Old 07-07-2019, 05:41 PM   #11
Logan X
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Originally Posted by Khorsam View Post
Logan X, soooooo.... looking at this picture you posted... I have a round plugin type thing that is up where the TV would be mounted and the wires are that connect to the built-in DVD player.
Are you saying that is like a cigarette plug for 12v power?? I had no idea what that was for... I thought it was for a different type of plug like for satellite or something. Who knew??!!! Clearly the guy that did the walkthrough didn't.
I noticed I already have some USB ports on one wall that I have used for charging my devices. The CD/DVD player also has a USB port. Is it possible that I already have an inverter built in? Somewhere?
I can pretty much guarantee that your Hideout did not come with an inverter.

I apologize if this information is too basic but I want to make sure we are talking about the same things.

Your trailer has 2 separate systems for power.

1: When you are plugged into shore power, that is using the 110v AC power system. Like a regular house, all of the outlets and everything works, including the air conditioner.

2: When you are not plugged into shore power, the trailer is powered by the batteries, which is the 12v DC system. The 12v system doesn’t power any outlets, just usb ports and the afore mentioned 12v cigarette lighter outlet. (Also the lights, water pump, etc)

To power something that needs to be plugged in a regular outlet, when using the 12v power system, you need an inverter. The inverter takes the power from the 12v battery and inverts it to 110v power.

Your trailer came with a power converter. The converter takes the 110v power when you are plugged into shore power and converts it to 12v power to run all of the 12v stuff when you are plugged in. This is so you don’t use your battery power when you are connected to shore power.

So your trailer came with a converter not an inverter.

The USB ports and the cigarette lighter are powered by the 12v battery system. That is why I only have a small inverter to power the TV. Pretty much every other system in the trailer will run off of the 12 v battery system (not the air conditioner or the 110v house outlets)

Anyways, sorry this was a long post. I hope that made sense.
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Old 07-07-2019, 05:47 PM   #12
Logan X
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PS...Robert (Khorsam) yes, the outlet by your TV is a 12v cigarette style automotive plug.

On an unrelated note, there is probably a small button and led light on the faceplate with the 12v outlet by the TV. That is your over the air tv antenna booster. Press the button, the led lights up, the antenna booster is on. Turn the booster off if you are plugged into cable tv using the coax cable.
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Old 07-08-2019, 12:55 PM   #13
Khorsam
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All great information Logan X... I understand most of the basics, but it's good to confirm. So it really helps to know when I consider what kind of solar system I'll need if I just need to keep the batteries topped up.
Thanks so much!
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Old 07-08-2019, 09:01 PM   #14
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Could someone tell me how to check that the polarity matches? I ordered zamp, but my hideout does not specify zamp on the plug in.

Somethings I read say that hideouts are wired for zamp, some say they are not.

Just new to the whole solar thing
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Old 07-12-2019, 06:14 PM   #15
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My Bullet 19' appears to be "solar ready"; but from this thread I gather that only means that there are two wires from the plug to the 12V system (with a fuse) connected somewhere ... seems to me easier and simpler to mount the charge controller where it's convenient but not in the way, and then wire directly to the batteries, disregarding the pre-wired solar ready crap?

Unless, of course the pre-wired solar ready means that there are wires in the fuse box labeled for the solar system that can be accessed and used, along with room to mount the solar charge controller...

Larry
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Old 07-12-2019, 06:43 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott V View Post
Could someone tell me how to check that the polarity matches? I ordered zamp, but my hideout does not specify zamp on the plug in.



Somethings I read say that hideouts are wired for zamp, some say they are not.



Just new to the whole solar thing


If the solar prep is hooked up all you need is an Ohm meter. Set the scale to DC and put a test lead in each connection. It will read battery voltage and if it shows (-) minus the leads are reversed.
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Old 07-13-2019, 03:01 AM   #17
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As a bonus question; If you put solar panels on, don't they generally go on the roof? That being the case, why is the solar connector on my trailer mounted on the chassis? Where am I meant to run the wire?
With that and the absence of a controller, the "Solar ready" thing seems more like a sales gimmick to me.
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Old 07-13-2019, 03:07 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by FlyingAroundRV View Post
As a bonus question; If you put solar panels on, don't they generally go on the roof? That being the case, why is the solar connector on my trailer mounted on the chassis? Where am I meant to run the wire?

With that and the absence of a controller, the "Solar ready" thing seems more like a sales gimmick to me.


If you look at the connector it has a label that says something like 10A max. Itís meant for portable which have built in controller if anything.
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Old 07-13-2019, 07:03 AM   #19
GeekSquadOfUn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LCrabtree View Post
My Bullet 19' appears to be "solar ready"; but from this thread I gather that only means that there are two wires from the plug to the 12V system (with a fuse) connected somewhere ... seems to me easier and simpler to mount the charge controller where it's convenient but not in the way, and then wire directly to the batteries, disregarding the pre-wired solar ready crap?

Unless, of course the pre-wired solar ready means that there are wires in the fuse box labeled for the solar system that can be accessed and used, along with room to mount the solar charge controller...

Larry
I just posted my setup for Solar in What did you do to your RV today. It may give you some idea.
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Old 07-14-2019, 11:02 AM   #20
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FYI on an inverter: modified sine wave works fine on anything that converts ac to DC. TV, stereo, microwave, fans, etc are fine. Analog clocks are usually the only thing affected and will run slow or fast.
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