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02-14-2019, 02:37 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Wellsville
Posts: 67
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air conditioner questions
so today it was a pretty decent day and i went to see if my a/c would work as im still trying everything out. i turned on the a/c fan kicked right on but i dont believe the compressor itself kicked on. so i went up top removed the shroud and felt the compressor and couldnt feel anything. so my question is will the compressor kick on with it being only 40-45 degrees outside or no. if it still would kick on can i bypass the capacitor to see if that is the issue.
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02-14-2019, 03:04 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,090
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Howdy Jgraham14813,
If the temperature in the coach is higher than the lowest setting on the thermostat, the compressor should run, if it is lower already, it will not.
-Brian
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2014 Bullet Premier 22RBPR - let the camping commence!
2013 F150 Platinum - 5.0 - 3.55 ELD + towing package
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02-14-2019, 03:10 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Wellsville
Posts: 67
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So yes I had the heat on rv was up to about 65 if I played with the thermostat raised temp as it was on cool settings the fan would should off however like I said the compressor doesn’t seem to be kicking on
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02-14-2019, 03:18 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Wellsville
Posts: 67
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So if I was to try and bypass this capacitor to see if this was my issues which wires do what I can’t find much info on my ac unit
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02-14-2019, 03:29 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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I'd wait for a warmer day before tearing into the air conditioner. While it may be a bad compressor, chances are that there's nothing wrong with it if it was working last year. Many of the newer "system control boxes" (like the one being replaced because of the In-Command system issues) have different control regimens for heat and air conditioning. Some will allow the thermostat to indicate A/C at 60F when it's 65F but won't call for compressor cooling unless the "sensed temperature" is lower than a specific value "below ambient temp"... Usually that's around 68F, but not always.
I'd leave it alone and stop "using the furnace to warm it up to see if the air conditioner will kick in".... Wait until the ambient temp "both IN and OUT of the trailer is above the "warm enough for air conditioning"... Remember, there's a frost plug in the cooling unit, a freeze sensor in the rooftop unit and a control box that doesn't talk to you (thermostat), unless those sensors say it's OK.....
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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02-14-2019, 03:41 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Wellsville
Posts: 67
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Well seeing I already have it all ripped apart which capacitor is the compressor starter is it the black on or the other that way I can at least test them
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02-14-2019, 03:53 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Covington Ky
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jgraham14813
Well seeing I already have it all ripped apart which capacitor is the compressor starter is it the black on or the other that way I can at least test them
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Might want to try jumping out the compressor relay on the board in the return duct.
That’s how I diagnosed a bad board last year after a power surge.
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02-14-2019, 04:01 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Wellsville
Posts: 67
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Can you explain how to do that I haven’t even seen a circuit board for this
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02-14-2019, 04:08 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 1,271
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I would go what JRTJH said
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Navy 1980-1984
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02-14-2019, 04:50 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,695
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I would strongly urge you to follow John's suggestion to wait. If you aren't a trained RV AC tech, and your questions indicate you aren't, the chances that you will mess something up, when there's nothing wrong, are very high. Leave well enough alone and wait until it's warm enough to check things out. I've watched lots of folks try to work on things they knew nothing about thinking something was wrong, and there wasn't, then end up with a real mess.
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Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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02-14-2019, 04:50 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Wellsville
Posts: 67
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Ok I went out and found the circuit board wanted to check the fuse however when I opened it up I found the connector for the freeze sensor loose went to unhook the sensor and the connector fell out soon as that happened the compressor kicked on no issues so as of right now there is no sensor but the compressor works fine now. So I guess what is the actual purpose for that sensor and how bad is it needed
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02-14-2019, 05:12 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Wellsville
Posts: 67
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So I just went back out to search for the circuit board because I wanted to check that fuse, I found it removed the cover saw the fuse and at the time my finger touched the freeze sensor wire the compressor kicked on. At that time I realized that someone must have messed with it as the connector was not even soldered to the back of the board and was just there, I pulled the plug out and now the compressor works fine so at the moment I have no sensor but it works perfect. So I guess what exactly is the purpose of that sensor just to shut the compressor off Incase of freeze up?
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02-14-2019, 07:17 PM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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The sensor, if it's the freeze plug (I think it is) is inserted into the evaporator fins in the ceiling. Its purpose is to prevent condensation from freezing and blocking (ice dam) air flow through the condenser coils. It senses the temperature and "modulates the compressor" to prevent the condenser coils from getting too cold. Without it connected and operational, chances are your A/C will freeze up and stop working, probably at the worst possible time, on a hot day in the middle of a relaxing RV trip.
Back to your capacitor photo. Those two capacitors are likely to be fully charged and, if you happen to touch them at the wrong time, you could wind up on the ground, 10' below the A/C with or without a heartbeat. There's enough "shock value" in those charged capacitors to be deadly, so please be careful !!!!!
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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02-14-2019, 07:47 PM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
The sensor, if it's the freeze plug (I think it is) is inserted into the evaporator fins in the ceiling. Its purpose is to prevent condensation from freezing and blocking (ice dam) air flow through the condenser coils. It senses the temperature and "modulates the compressor" to prevent the condenser coils from getting too cold. Without it connected and operational, chances are your A/C will freeze up and stop working, probably at the worst possible time, on a hot day in the middle of a relaxing RV trip.
Back to your capacitor photo. Those two capacitors are likely to be fully charged and, if you happen to touch them at the wrong time, you could wind up on the ground, 10' below the A/C with or without a heartbeat. There's enough "shock value" in those charged capacitors to be deadly, so please be careful !!!!!
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This^^^^ is why I gave the warning above. Those not knowing of the components when "messing" with electrical "stuff" can have a rude awakening....or not.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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02-28-2019, 09:41 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: prophetstown
Posts: 318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourdough
I would strongly urge you to follow John's suggestion to wait. If you aren't a trained RV AC tech, and your questions indicate you aren't, the chances that you will mess something up, when there's nothing wrong, are very high. Leave well enough alone and wait until it's warm enough to check things out. I've watched lots of folks try to work on things they knew nothing about thinking something was wrong, and there wasn't, then end up with a real mess.
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Are you positive you don't have thermostat set to fan and not ac ? Just a thought
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02-28-2019, 09:50 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Vacaville
Posts: 309
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Also keep in mind most units will have a delay between heating/cooling and compressor lockout delay timer.
I applaud your DIY efforts but be careful working on line voltage circuits. And I will reiterate the above that even if unplugged those caps can still store charge enough to knock you out.
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02-28-2019, 10:11 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Reidsville
Posts: 20
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Look at the capacitor rating. Then, with all the wires disconnected and using a meter, check to see if the cap. Is good. I don not recommend "jumping" or bypassing things if, no disrespect, your experience is limited on this type of issue. You don't want to make things worse. Testing a cap. Is easy and will guide you as to which direction to further troubleshoot. As a side note, did you look on the compressor for a reset ?
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02-28-2019, 11:49 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Young America MN
Posts: 372
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Metal capacitor is fan and round non-metalic one is compressor. Now don't touch either one and you can't bypass them to check them anyway.
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02-28-2019, 12:01 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Reidsville
Posts: 20
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Yes, you can test a capacitor.
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02-28-2019, 12:16 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Vacaville
Posts: 309
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"you can't bypass them to check them anyway"
pstltaz, I took this to mean "this is not the proper way to check a capacitor" but I guess we can read that different ways.
Yes you can test a capacitor with the proper meter, once it is isolated from the circuit.
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