Surge protector

[CoffmanKA]

Originally Posted by Harleydodge

Breakers WILL NOT protect you from a power surge. They are there to protect you from something WITHIN your RV from drawing too much amperage and causing a fire or other damage.
A power surge from an outside source is an "over voltage" situation, as opposed to Amperage, and can result in major damage to anything connected to it.
A surge protector will (help) guard against this and that is why it is recommended.
A complete EMS, or electrical management system will do that, as well as tell you if the power supply you are connected to is properly wired and grounded and if the supplied voltage is within proper specification. All things that a common circuit breaker cannot and will not do.
Hope that helps.


Added: I will also say that instead of considering a good EMS system an "expensive" addition to your RV, you should consider it as being a really cheap insurance policy on all of your on-board electrical systems and appliances that you need to only pay for once.

******
I agree with this statement above. We took a pretty direct hit that knocked out our surge protector, but thankfully, did NOT destroy any of our electrical appliances, tv, laptop, refrigerator, dishwasher, satelite system, etc. Purchase a good surge protector, and sleep better at night.

~Bob & Kim Coffman

[Old soldier]

Safety and appliance protection. Pedestals can be in very poor shape. People abuse them, and breakers just get weak/old. You see schmucks trying to draw 50 amp camper power hogs trhrough 30 amp with 503 different cord adapters. Play it safe: get a surge protector. And check to ensure the circuit breakers were left in the off position before plugging in. Same schmucks leave the site with pedestals turned on. You can get an arc that will blow your camper’s circuits and fry your appliances. You can buy a lot of surge protectors for the price of one fridge.

[johnlewis]

Here's the reason. Voltage can vary. Many of your AC electrical components are designed to operate at 120 VAC +/-10% (108 VAC to 132 VAC). Motors use watts. If the voltage drops too low, motors have to draw more amperage (Watts = volts x amps). More amps makes the motor run hotter, and you can burn up a motor. Some electronics don't work well on low voltage, and high voltage can burn up electronics. We have a high end surge protector (about $500.00). This is much cheaper than replacing an air conditioner or a refrigerator.

[azchoco]

I have a Progressive surge protector for my 5th wheel. It has a lot to protect because I have the inCommand system.

The supressor I have is plugged in to the pedestal first. Circuit breakers only protect your rv if you draw more amps than the breaker size, i.e. 15 amps. If you draw more than 15 amps it will trip the breaker and that is all. A surge suppressor protects you from power surges and voltage drops which both can cause damage to th our RV. Mine disconnects the power in both cases protecting my RV. It was about $400 but one surge can fry my iCommand or other component that are on costing much more than $400 to repair .

[bobbecky]

Originally Posted by Travler

Ok I am not a electrician. So this is why I am asking. A lot of treads have been saying that my 5th wheel should be hooked to a expensive surge protector. My question is why. The camp grounds that I have been to all have a breaker in their box that I hook my shore line to and I also have a main breaker in my 5th wheel. So I see that I am double protected. How am I wrong. Please explain . That is what the breakers do is protect the wiring.

Thanks to all who respond. Just trying to figure this out.

There have been a number of answers to your question, but none are really giving you an accurate answer. The breaker in the pedestal is not there to protect you or anything in your RV, but is there to protect the rest of the park from an electrical problem in your RV or even in the shore cord. Your main breaker in your panel protects the panel from a failure in the panel so your trailer is also protected from a large electrical incident. Each of the smaller breakers protect the panel from an overload or failure on the circuit it is supplying power to. Most electricians do not understand this concept either, but this is which way the protection is supposed to work, not the other way around. This is the same as fuses or circuit breakers work at high voltages in the utility systems that bring power to your home or the park you may be at, to protect the larger system from a failure on a smaller branch of the system. So all this said so you can see a not really so expensive device as an EMS is the only way to protect you and your RV from voltage issues that can cause you a very large expense due to a low or high voltage, a missing ground or neutral, or several other expensive issues that will not cause a breaker to trip.

[parkgirl]

We have had our trailer installed in the same RV park for the past 7 years. We never bothered with an EMS or surge protector because the park we are in is very reputable and we were even in a newer section with all new wiring in that area. Because we weren't moving around to different/unknown parks we thought we were safe. At the end of last summer, the trailer across from us had their fridge, microwave, TV and several other items completely fried by some sort of electrical malfunction/surge. Turns out the entire row of trailers across from us were also affected, each of them losing major appliances, converters, etc. to the problem. The cost of repairs is the responsibility of the trailer owner (or hopefully their insurance) not the park. We immediately bought a Progressive Industries EMS. Now, just this past weekend, everybody kept losing power in our section, so obviously the park has some serious issues. I am so relieved to have the EMS. It's worth every penny to have that peace of mind that we aren't going to be out thousands of dollars potentially.
parkgirl

[flybouy]

Parkgirl good move. Old soldier I have to take issue with the "power hods connecting 30 amp to 50". I have a 30 amp camper and whenever a 50 amp outlet is available I will use ONE dogbone adapter to connect. Here's why, the main breaker in the campers panel still limits max amperage draw to 30 amps. Typically the 30 amp outlet gets used the most and has been in use longer and therefore will have a less positive mechanical/electrical connection. I agree that folks not turning the breaker off before connecting or disconnecting the plug compounds the issue by causing the connections to arc. I don't know how much of this is due to not being educated vs not caring. This is just some of the reasons for having an EMS for protecting your investment. For those of us that have been camping for decades we have seen the times change regarding energy usage in campers. Years ago a 15 amp circuit was sufficient, then people demand air conditioning and microwaves and 30 amp became the norm. Most cg changed over the outlets but not necessarily the transformer or the wire size. Now people want 2 or 3 air conditioners, enough lighting to make a used car lot jealous, sat dishes, induction cook tops, convection ovens, multiple battery charging, well you get the picture. As demand constantly increases the available supply is taxed to the point of breaking. This is happening large scale with power grids and rolling brown outs etc. The cost for the cg owner to upgrade the electrical system in their park is typically cost prohibitive. To compound the problem most cg's have a maintenance worker that's not trained even in basic electrical work repairing their antiquated systems. The only thing we can do is protect ourselves with the best available device, an EMS. Hope this helps.

[cavediver]

I have not seen this anywhere, but circuit breakers and fuses are designed for one reason only. To protect the wiring! ! That's all. House or RV they are designed to stop your wiring from becoming a toaster, and burning your home or RV to the ground. If your wiring is under sized say that you use a cheep 22 Guage extention cord to power an AC unit on a 20 amp circuit. It won't trip the breaker but the cord will get hot. Much like the toaster only not in closed in something designed to hold the heat. Leave it run the AC long enough it will melt the insulation, if you're lucky the wires will touch and then trip the breaker. If not your home or RV will burn.

Jack

[dpankowski]

I bought this portable unit Surge Guard model 34950

https://www.campingworld.com/50-amp-...th-lcd-display

before I read this forum post. Everyone seems to like the progressive industries. Does anyone have experience with the SurgeGuard unit? I'd hate to have to buy another EMS.

[sourdough]

I have the unit in the link and have had for 5 seasons. IMO it's as good as the Progressive but does not have the lifetime warranty. It hasn't failed me yet and I really like the readout it gives when analyzing the power. Surge Guard also makes a security "coupler" that goes around the connection at your trailer power cable. I've got a Master lock on mine. Won't stop any determined thief but will slow down a passerby that thinks they'll just unplug it and take it.

[JRTJH]

Surge Gard and Progressive devices are both quality devices and, for the most part, are comparable. The "preference for PI" at least in my opinion, is in the warranty. PI has a lifetime warranty that covers all events (other than physical damage/misuse) and will repair/replace the unit if it fails. Surge Gard also has a lifetime warranty that covers "SOME" events, but excludes damage from power surges. Here is what their warranty document states:

"Surge Protection Feature
Surge Guard surge protectors are designed to sacrifice themselves in
order to save equipment connected to it. If your surge protector is not
allowing current to pass and/or the protection working LED indicator is
off, then your surge protector has performed its duty, protecting your
equipment, and the Limited Lifetime Warranty is void. You will need to
purchase a new unit to replace the expired unit."

So, essentially, either brand will protect your RV equally, but if you experience a power surge that damages the device, PI will replace it, Surge Gard will not.

[Laredo Tugger]

OK, four pages later I am convinced I need I surge protector. A no brainer, I knew that. I had the inline PI 30 amp unit on my TT. It wasn't too difficult to install and worked well. I am looking to purchase the PI (external) 50 amp for my 5er. With a good lock(Is that "box" that locks at the pedestal worth the money?) and weather protection it will do the job.
I have seen some on here that use a surge protector and a Hughes Autoformer together. Are both necessary? This unit, Hughes Autoformers RV220-50SP Voltage Booster (with Surge Protection) offers protection and voltage boost. It is more expensive than the PI unit, but is this the correct way to "support" surge protection with power boost ?
Like anybody else I just want to get the right tool the first time.
Thanks,
RMc

[travelin texans]

I have the 50 amp portable that's been in use daily for the last 10 years (well it's actually the 2nd one, 1st fried & replaced) all across the country without being locked & has never sprouted legs, so lock it if you want, but I haven't found it necessary.
As to the auto former, don't have one, haven't needed one as far as I know & at this point ain't spending the $$$$ to get one, but again it's your money.

[Triple GGG]

The only reason I have both is I had the PI 50amp EMS. Campground we are now at year round has low voltage. I purchased the Hughes Autoformer for this reason. Running both just because I have them. I'd you don't need the voltage boost the PI is fantastic and all you need. If you need voltage boost I would only get the Autoformer.

[Laredo Tugger]

So I gather to do it right and do it once, the Autoformer is the best investment. Getting both high and low voltage protection from one unit.
I know it is more money, but done once a $500 investment is cheap insurance against any voltage fluctuations that may occur. BTW, I will lock this unit. I lock everything. Just me............
RMc

[travelin texans]

If you only get the auto former you may not need the lock, they are VERY heavy so whomever won't be "running" away while lugging it.

[Triple GGG]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

If you only get the auto former you may not need the lock, they are VERY heavy so whomever won't be "running" away while lugging it.

Yes they are heavy

[Laredo Tugger]

I guess I will have to be on the lookout for a thief with a shopping cart.
I'm sure he's out there.
Thanks
RMc

[flybouy]

If someone steals the Auto former the load grunt followed by a load thud will give them away! Just look for the guy that winces and walks funny.

[Laredo Tugger]

The weight on Amazon say's 35 lbs.
Yes ,you will not be able to sprint from the police with that under your arm. I guess someone could drive up and lug it to their vehicle and then run.
That weight with the top handle will give me an excuse to not go to the gym. Just go out and hoist that thing over my head a few times in the morning. Workout complete.
RMc