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Old 02-04-2018, 02:33 PM   #21
BSHGTO
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can`t make this stuff up

Quote:
Originally Posted by ctbruce View Post
Just a question, because I don't know. Has anybody sold a trailer with this mod? We're you able to recoup your investment? If you could, that would go a long way towards making the investment initially.

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Recouping your investment? Not a chance. The dealer is won`t give it a second thought. The only way you`ll recoup investment is to do what I said in the original post. Throw the electric brakes in the shed. What was meant there was if I ever and probably will sell this camper, the disks come off and the electric brakes in the shed will go back on. I purposely left all the wiring and connections intact for that day. Very simple. A half day of work ( but I consider it fun, retired) and look at the money you have saved. Most if not all campers that really need disk brakes because of weight run a number 42 spindle on the axle so just have the disks turned put new pads on the calipers put them on your new camper and throw the electric brakes in the shed. Repeat. So 6 campers later you just might have to replace the disks considering how few miles most of us put on a unit. And this is why you use the flexible brake line kit it is adaptable to any configuration in the future. Even my old lite weight High Country had # 42 spindles. This is your return on investment.
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Old 02-04-2018, 03:36 PM   #22
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Once the taillights of the new rv clear the driveway of the dealership you just lost 30% or more on the rv you just bought, so worrying about $1200-1500 to make it 110% safer is nothing. If you have any aspirations of recouping ANY money you spend on a rv, either purchase or mods, you are going to be VERY disappointed. Plus as I just mentioned once you've towed one with disc you'll never want drums again.
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Old 02-04-2018, 08:49 PM   #23
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I totally agree that $$$ is the only reason they aren't standard on rvs & the reason more people dont opt to order with them.
So we order almost nothing but Boatmate trailers for our large wakeboats. Disc brakes are standard, but they are hydraulic actuator in trailer tongue ( push tow vehicle brakes and it stroke master cylinder built into trailer tongue). You can option torsion or leafs for suspension and from there you can add lots of little doodads to your trailer like steps at rear to board the boat, to LED laser cut logos in the fender to display manufacturer name, to front walk up stairs so you can board bow while on the trailer. Trailer alone can run 3k+, and that is the small painted wakeboat segment. The guys running large galvanized trailers for salt will spend 8-10k just on the trailer to haul the boat.
No wonder TT/5er manufacturers aren't pushing the envelope.
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Old 02-05-2018, 03:16 AM   #24
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The axles and brakes are Dexter on my RV and have thought the disc brake conversion would be great to do. The brakes work good and are still basically new, so for now and until monies are there, I'll have to stick with the elec drums. For the weight of mine I do think the discs are in my future plans. The problem I have is having the place to do the conversion so it might have to be a dealer installed thing which means more cost for conversion.
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Old 02-05-2018, 04:09 AM   #25
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Thanks for the (brutally...LOL) honest replies. Great points, I'm really asking for those whose money is tight and they are trying to justify doing or not doing this conversion. Maybe it gives them enough means to pull it off.

I agree it is s great safety feature to put on. While resale on a trade in is the easy way to be rid of a unit and go to a new one, I was wondering how this would go on the open market of selling it to an individual. I sold s trailer once and will probably never do it again but something to think about.

Just put the old ones back on? You mechanically inclined guys crack me up. I put pills in bottles for kids for a living. I'm lucky to be able to change a light bulb some days. So envious of those with mad skills....

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Old 02-05-2018, 04:35 AM   #26
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I know I’m probably the only guy with “old” stuff, but hydraulic trailer brakes require a brake controller that can work with that...I don’t. And not in the market to buy another controller since mine works fine.
You don’t need to buy another controller. Some controllers (such as Prodigy) send a small signal back to brakes to check for connection. Electric over hydraulic has no resistance so controller “thinks” no trailer hooked up.

The fix is simple. Take one magnet from the electric brakes and wire it into the system so controller “knows” trailer is hooked up. Has worked great for me and no extra expense. Or you can buy a fancy box made to wire in to do the exact same thing.
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Old 02-05-2018, 05:15 AM   #27
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I will keep that in mind, thanks.
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Old 02-05-2018, 07:15 AM   #28
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You don’t need to buy another controller. Some controllers (such as Prodigy) send a small signal back to brakes to check for connection. Electric over hydraulic has no resistance so controller “thinks” no trailer hooked up.

The fix is simple. Take one magnet from the electric brakes and wire it into the system so controller “knows” trailer is hooked up. Has worked great for me and no extra expense. Or you can buy a fancy box made to wire in to do the exact same thing.
Couldn't you take an ohm reading on the brake magnet and install a resistor of that value for a couple of bucks?
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Old 02-05-2018, 08:40 AM   #29
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Performance Trailer Braking sells Titan disc conversions & did mine on my site (along with the rvs on either side of me) last fall, they did an awesome job. In My opinion the absolute best mod done on my 5er, I can actually feel the trailer brakes slowing the truck, NEVER felt that with any trailer with drum brakes.
I totally agree any rv over 10k disc brakes should be mandatory.
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Old 02-07-2018, 09:51 AM   #30
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Couldn't you take an ohm reading on the brake magnet and install a resistor of that value for a couple of bucks?
Yes, possibly but what are you gonna do with the magnet you just took off? Why buy something that you already have? Your money, do what you want.
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Old 02-07-2018, 09:57 AM   #31
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My 2014 RAM brake controller handles the disc brakes fine. But just to play around, I changed the settings to be those for traditional brakes with magnets. The controller said no trailer was attached. I then hooked a continuity tester with a small bulb across the brake line and ground. That was just enough resistance to fake out the controller. I don't remember, but I don't think the bulb even glowed unless I pull the lever to apply voltage to the brakes.

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Old 02-25-2018, 07:42 AM   #32
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I am thinking about converting my camper to disk brakes in the near future. How do I identify the axles on my camper and what disk brake kits are people using?

I see there are several materials and coatings on the brake kits, which is preferred and why? I would guess the stainless steel would last the longest regarding corrosion but they are far more expensive. How do the other finishes hold up? Most of the parts on automotive brakes aren’t coated and they hold up reasonable well.
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:35 AM   #33
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There's a tag on the axle, on mine at least, about the middle of the axle tube.
Contact Performance Trailering Braking , they came to me & did the install at the park we were working at, did a great job. They could answer most all your questions.
performancetrailerbraking.com
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