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Old 06-27-2018, 02:08 PM   #1
wbdvt
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WDH Question

I have an e2 round bar 800# WDH that I had with my previous TT and TV. I have been using it with my most recent set up:
2014 Cougar Xlite 21RBS Hitch weight 580 lbs, GVW 7200 lbs (from specs)
2016 Chevy 2500 HD Diesel payload 2600lbs, towing 14,500 lbs, dual cab, 8ft bed

So no problem with ratings. When I fully loaded truck and camper this year, I rechecked the setup per the e2 manual:
With WDH unhitched, front wheel measurement was 40 1/2"
With trailer unhitched front wheel measurement was 39 7/8"
With WDH hooked up, front wheel measurement was 40 1/2"

So it looks like the WD bars have no effect on the measurements. Note that the loaded truck has 2 Vespa scooters in the back, which weigh 270 lbs each. I drive them sometimes in the truck without the camper. So the 39 7/8" measurement is normal.

To me it looks like the bars are doing nothing but some sway control. I am wondering if I would be better without the WDH bars and just some type of sway control.

Opinions?
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Old 06-27-2018, 02:47 PM   #2
Retired Copper
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Try one more washer and then measure. When I changed trucks and had to get go to a 2 1/2 shank my front was a little high one washer put me back to stock height and it pulls fantastic.
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Old 06-27-2018, 02:51 PM   #3
Retired Copper
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Forgot this first: raise your L brackets up one hole and see if that lowers the front. From what I have studied that is the same as one washer to the head, if that works you can add the washer and then put your bars back level.
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Old 06-27-2018, 03:07 PM   #4
Gegrad
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Honestly, with that small of a trailer behind that beast, you may not need any WD... The hitch weight is a fraction of your truck's capacity, so you may not need the effects of the WD (leveling the truck). You might just some sway control.
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Old 06-27-2018, 08:35 PM   #5
Big Boy w/ Big Toys
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Your hitch weight should be 900 pounds figured on a 12.5% of trailer weight, about half way between the minimum 10% and max 15%. So depending on trailer loading you could be a bit higher and closer to max payload then you think.

As for the WDH bars, I think they are too light, should be no less then 1k bars or better 1200 lb bars. You can reduce the load on the bars to match your load and have capacity left over. As for dropping the WDH and only sway control, take it for a ride first. I don't think you will like the way it handles. Try it both loaded and unloaded. I have a friend who just bought a camper and it needed to go back to the dealer for a few issues we found and he decided to tow it back with out the WDH bars hooked up. He is towing it with a F 450 and trailer empty and he said it towed like do do....and wanted to sway a little. Hooked the bars up for return trip and never knew it was back there.

IMO I believe that the dealers at times just throw hitches at folks and never really do any follow up or do i believe that they care.. My friend had to force them into the bigger bars when he purchased his trailer. Their answer was "that is what we sell with all our trailers" Always get the heaviest bars you can, you can always reduce the tension on those bars to make for better towing.
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Old 06-29-2018, 10:56 AM   #6
wbdvt
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I did some extensive research and have bought an Andersen 3394 which has a 2 1/2" shank so I don't have to use the reducing sleeve. I hope this will also lessen the bounce that can be pretty bad on some roads.

I leave for a trip on July 6 so I don't think it will be here in time to try it on this trip.
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Old 06-29-2018, 09:20 PM   #7
Big Boy w/ Big Toys
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The 2.5 inch shank will eliminate the clunk. I wish these dealers would supply the right shank for the tow vehicle instead of the one size fits all mentality.....I know not your case. If I lived closer i would be more then happy to let you test my setup on your trailer. Maybe see if you can find someone with a heavier set of bars that match your hitch head to try.
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