Tow Vehicle Brake System Upgrades

[Apalinto]

Greeting to all.

Brake lining is getting low on my TV. Need to get new pads. Question for the group, is it better to resurface my OEM rotors and buy upgraded pads or install new rotors (specifically for towing duty, but not OEM)?

My TV is a 2006 Ford F-350 Super Duty with 90K miles. Rotors have never been resurfaced. I am having no issues currently (other than lining is getting low) and I tow a Cougar 315RLS approx. 11,000 lbs.

The upgraded rotors are drilled and slotted. OEM rotors are serviceable.

[chuckster57]

I never liked turning rotors. Most parts stores aren’t that versed in how to do it right so I tell my customers to replace. Lots of discussions on the WWW about slotted/drilled/cryo treated. I haven’t had anybody tell me they can tell a significant difference to justify the cost.

Properly adjusted trailer brakes and the stock OEM parts should be plenty. JMO YMMV

[travelin texans]

In my opinion the OEM are just fine, don't think you'd notice any difference towing, not towing you might. If you want the pretty slotted rotors go for it, but to me it's an unnecessary expense.
If your trailer brakes are adjusted properly & the truck controller is set correctly you will notice the rv slowing the tv just a bit to save the tv from doing all the braking.

[Apalinto]

Thanks Chuckster57. These are also my feelings on the matter. I really trust my shop and they never try to push anything on me, so I am thinking stay with OEM and replace my pads.

[Apalinto]

Thanks travelin texans. I agree with you and I really dial my trailer brake controller. At this point, going to stick with OEM rotors.

[sourdough]

I have to agree with the group. Don't think you can go wrong with the OEM parts. As far as having rotors turned; used to be turning drums, then rotors was more or less "an art" done by pros that knew what the were doing. The last time I had them done I questioned whether the guy doing the work knew a rotor from a driveshaft.

[Apalinto]

Thanks sourdough. Always value your opinion. My rotors feel pretty good and I am not experiencing and wobbling or pulsing, so I'm sticking with OEM. The rear rotors on my year F-350 have a very elongated hub so those will likely only get a light sanding since most rotor turners can't fit it anyway. Cheers!

[Fishsizzle]

I agree, turning them is a lost art. And most rotors are thinner I believe than back in the day.

AC Delco rotors are rated very well. I’ve put a few sets on my rigs (all FOMOCO) and have been happy with them. I’ve used EBC pads in the past, but never saw a big improvement, so I use the ceramic infused ones now.

[notanlines]

If there are no signs of the rotors being overheated (very slight cracking on the surface) I wholeheartedly agree with all three above. I have always believed that the slotted rotors are simply a "Kentucky go-faster" that naïve individuals (Go ahead, roast me. I can take it) will fall for like a sailor falls for Sophia Loren. Okay, one of the Kardashians then....

[ctbruce]

Originally Posted by notanlines

If there are no signs of the rotors being overheated (very slight cracking on the surface) I wholeheartedly agree with all three above. I have always believed that the slotted rotors are simply a "Kentucky go-faster" that naïve individuals (Go ahead, roast me. I can take it) will fall for like a sailor falls for Sophia Loren. Okay, one of the Kardashians then....

Jim, How could you say both of those names in the same sentence and not be struck by lightning?

[JRTJH]

About 1980 or around then, the CAFE standards really started pinching the auto manufacturers and they looked for any way to shave a pound or more from their new models. One of the ways they did that was making the rotors and hubs thinner. So, while there "used to be" more than adequate rotor or hub thickness to resurface them (done by someone who knows what they're doing), today's rotors and hubs are "barely minimum thickness when new. I've been told by Ford master mechanics for years that Ford doesn't resurface rotors that are repaired in warranty, they only replace the OEM rotor with a new part. I've asked several times and every mechanic I talk to tells me that if you resurface a Ford rotor, it's start "wobbling" the first time you overheat the brakes with a hard or sudden stop. Resurfacing them (Ford rotors) just takes too much metal from the rotor, putting it in a "worn out and going to fail" condition. As for other manufacturers, While I've never asked, I'd strongly suspect that the CAFE standards and weight reduction are managed in nearly the same manner across all the auto brands.

In other words, don't waste your time resurfacing rotors, just replace them. The cost is not that much more and the result is almost always better reliability with new parts.

[Badbart56]

I worked for dealership service departments on and off since the 70's when I wasn't a full time LEO and I can tell you that the OEM parts are superior to what the aftermarket has to offer. The metal used in the OEM rotors and drums is a far better grade than aftermarket offerings. It holds up better to temperature change than the aftermarket alloys and that's what causes the warpage that brings on the vibration you feel in your brake pedal and steering wheel.

The OEM pads are a top quality also and Ford offers a severe duty brake pad for the Super Duty trucks. I did front brakes on my F350 at 150 K miles and the tech went with the severe duty pads as that is what was OEM. As for turning rotors and drums, they would rather sell you new ones. But they can in fact resurface them if you like. They even have a machine that mounts to the rotor while it's on your car/truck. They don't have to remove the rotor. And the bearings are sealed in the hubs so it's not like they're going to repack them.

Being in Florida with all the rain we get, we saw a lot of warpage even with OEM. Hot brakes hitting water puddles does that. But it's worse with aftermarket. I've used both on some of my vehicles so, yeah, I can tell you from experience. They'll work, but you get what you pay for.

[Northofu1]

I have always used rotors for 3 pad changes, then did a complete change of calipers/ rotors/ pads/ flex lines, and changed fluid (things get rusty up here). I was a highway commuter and drove at least 50K KM's per year. I can't remember the last car I had that had drums, was either the 1979 Datsun B210, or the '73 Mustang. I miss the Datsun lol

[Frank G]

For clarification;

OEM= Ford Rotors
Aftermarket= Auto Parts Store Chinese rotors

Don't be fooled

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Badbart56

I worked for dealership service departments on and off since the 70's when I wasn't a full time LEO and I can tell you that the OEM parts are superior to what the aftermarket has to offer. The metal used in the OEM rotors and drums is a far better grade than aftermarket offerings. It holds up better to temperature change than the aftermarket alloys and that's what causes the warpage that brings on the vibration you feel in your brake pedal and steering wheel.



The OEM pads are a top quality also and Ford offers a severe duty brake pad for the Super Duty trucks. I did front brakes on my F350 at 150 K miles and the tech went with the severe duty pads as that is what was OEM. As for turning rotors and drums, they would rather sell you new ones. But they can in fact resurface them if you like. They even have a machine that mounts to the rotor while it's on your car/truck. They don't have to remove the rotor. And the bearings are sealed in the hubs so it's not like they're going to repack them.



Being in Florida with all the rain we get, we saw a lot of warpage even with OEM. Hot brakes hitting water puddles does that. But it's worse with aftermarket. I've used both on some of my vehicles so, yeah, I can tell you from experience. They'll work, but you get what you pay for.

The machine that mounts to the rotor on the vehicle is the only time I would say “ turning” is ok.

[Badbart56]

Originally Posted by Frank G

For clarification;

OEM= Ford Rotors
Aftermarket= Auto Parts Store Chinese rotors

Don't be fooled

That's correct.

[Apalinto]

Thanks fishsizzle. Going for pads with Ceramic formula as well.

[Apalinto]

Ha ha! Thanks notanlines!

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

About 1980 or around then, the CAFE standards really started pinching the auto manufacturers and they looked for any way to shave a pound or more from their new models. One of the ways they did that was making the rotors and hubs thinner. So, while there "used to be" more than adequate rotor or hub thickness to resurface them (done by someone who knows what they're doing), today's rotors and hubs are "barely minimum thickness when new. I've been told by Ford master mechanics for years that Ford doesn't resurface rotors that are repaired in warranty, they only replace the OEM rotor with a new part. I've asked several times and every mechanic I talk to tells me that if you resurface a Ford rotor, it's start "wobbling" the first time you overheat the brakes with a hard or sudden stop. Resurfacing them (Ford rotors) just takes too much metal from the rotor, putting it in a "worn out and going to fail" condition. As for other manufacturers, While I've never asked, I'd strongly suspect that the CAFE standards and weight reduction are managed in nearly the same manner across all the auto brands.

In other words, don't waste your time resurfacing rotors, just replace them. The cost is not that much more and the result is almost always better reliability with new parts.

I think your assessment is on point. I used to do a lot of vehicle "maintenance" on my daily drivers and my toys. Back in the days of the first "disc" brakes (front only) the rotors were massive compared to today. The metal on each side back then was probably 3/8" at least - plenty to turn; by someone that knew what they were doing, and you could do it multiple times if you didn't damage them.

Before I traded off my 17 Explorer I had them lift it because I hated the Hankook tires and figured they were going to "get me". While up with the tires off I looked at the rotors; I swear if they were an 1/8" thick it would be a miracle (OK-maybe 3/16 but no more). It made me wonder how the pressure from the calipers didn't just "dent" them. Turn them? I can't see how - there's not enough "meat" there to turn. You get a new vehicle with x amount of miles built into those thin rotors and...replace, not "renew".

[fnnut]

As you have read newer vehicles have thinner rotors. Personally I replace with oem When they warp or bad due to ware. Oem pads are always a good choice. Check out rock auto website. They carrry oem parts and have been far less expensive for me