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Old 10-20-2015, 03:23 AM   #21
esmoglo
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Will receive the unit on Thursday from Michigan and we’re super excited to say the least. We spent two nights on it this weekend getting acclimated to how it works.

One of my cabinet doors had come loose during the 1440 mile trip I found two screws in the floor and the door hanging. I attempted to reattach but it appears the screws just ripped right out not a big deal I can fix it will need to use a screw with nut behind the cabinet for positive attachment.

Second I noticed under the sink that there was an ever so small quarter sized puddle of water I guess the sink has a small leak. Tightened up all the hardware that appeared loose so hopefully that’s an isolated incident.

Now the one kind of bugs me is the entry main door has a very significant gap at the base (it’s notable) versus the top of the door that sits flush. Has anyone ever adjusted one of these doors? I’m not opposed to taking to the dealer however unfortunately South Florida dealers will tell you it will take three months for them to even look at it and I’m not leaving my RV there for three months.

I’m of the mind to fix myself if possible. Were still positive about the unit these are sort of like rolling houses you should expect some minor issues.

So now a penny for your thoughts? Should I worry about me are the hardware coming loose on the cabinets? Should I attempt to fix entry door by myself is it possible? I have the extended warranty that covers the unit for 7 years I know allot of dealers don't like doing warranty work because the don't get paid enough (according to them).
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Old 10-20-2015, 04:01 AM   #22
Tbos
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Originally Posted by lawdog130 View Post
Bill-e

My range hood had a "knock out" panel in the back to attach the duct to so I did not need to replace the hood.

I took numerous photographs of the mod so I could show others. It wasn't that difficult but required some planning. PM me with your email address and I will forward you the photos and some notes about the installation.

Chris
I'm interested in the range vent mod too. I'll send a pm.

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Old 10-21-2015, 02:06 AM   #23
Tbos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esmoglo View Post
Will receive the unit on Thursday from Michigan and we’re super excited to say the least. We spent two nights on it this weekend getting acclimated to how it works.

One of my cabinet doors had come loose during the 1440 mile trip I found two screws in the floor and the door hanging. I attempted to reattach but it appears the screws just ripped right out not a big deal I can fix it will need to use a screw with nut behind the cabinet for positive attachment.

Second I noticed under the sink that there was an ever so small quarter sized puddle of water I guess the sink has a small leak. Tightened up all the hardware that appeared loose so hopefully that’s an isolated incident.

Now the one kind of bugs me is the entry main door has a very significant gap at the base (it’s notable) versus the top of the door that sits flush. Has anyone ever adjusted one of these doors? I’m not opposed to taking to the dealer however unfortunately South Florida dealers will tell you it will take three months for them to even look at it and I’m not leaving my RV there for three months.

I’m of the mind to fix myself if possible. Were still positive about the unit these are sort of like rolling houses you should expect some minor issues.

So now a penny for your thoughts? Should I worry about me are the hardware coming loose on the cabinets? Should I attempt to fix entry door by myself is it possible? I have the extended warranty that covers the unit for 7 years I know allot of dealers don't like doing warranty work because the don't get paid enough (according to them).
I'd have a dealer fix the main door issue. On the cabinet door I'm guessing someone was over zealous installing it and stripped the holes. Try putting some toothpicks in the holes and see if you can tighten the screws. The kitchen leak might just be loose. Good luck.

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Old 10-21-2015, 04:51 PM   #24
Tbos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esmoglo View Post
Will receive the unit on Thursday from Michigan and we’re super excited to say the least. We spent two nights on it this weekend getting acclimated to how it works.

One of my cabinet doors had come loose during the 1440 mile trip I found two screws in the floor and the door hanging. I attempted to reattach but it appears the screws just ripped right out not a big deal I can fix it will need to use a screw with nut behind the cabinet for positive attachment.

Second I noticed under the sink that there was an ever so small quarter sized puddle of water I guess the sink has a small leak. Tightened up all the hardware that appeared loose so hopefully that’s an isolated incident.

Now the one kind of bugs me is the entry main door has a very significant gap at the base (it’s notable) versus the top of the door that sits flush. Has anyone ever adjusted one of these doors? I’m not opposed to taking to the dealer however unfortunately South Florida dealers will tell you it will take three months for them to even look at it and I’m not leaving my RV there for three months.

I’m of the mind to fix myself if possible. Were still positive about the unit these are sort of like rolling houses you should expect some minor issues.

So now a penny for your thoughts? Should I worry about me are the hardware coming loose on the cabinets? Should I attempt to fix entry door by myself is it possible? I have the extended warranty that covers the unit for 7 years I know allot of dealers don't like doing warranty work because the don't get paid enough (according to them).
We looked at two 2810's today. Both had a gap at the lower left corner of the main door. It doesn't close completely. The sales person removed hydraulic closer and it seemed to work ok. Not sure what the permanent fix will be. We pulled the trigger anyway and are supposed to pick one up Friday.

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Old 10-21-2015, 06:05 PM   #25
lawdog130
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Smile We looked at two 2810's today. Both had a gap at the lower left corner of the main do

I see a lot of posts here about brand new RVs needing so much repair. This was our first new camper and we purchased the unit that was on display at the RV show. I was a bit apprehensive about buying a camper that hundreds of people had been through but there was absolutely nothing wrong with it and it hasn't needed any repairs. Either they went through it and fixed any problems for the show or we were fortunate enough to get one that was put together correctly.
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Old 10-21-2015, 07:30 PM   #26
esmoglo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbos View Post
We looked at two 2810's today. Both had a gap at the lower left corner of the main door. It doesn't close completely. The sales person removed hydraulic closer and it seemed to work ok. Not sure what the permanent fix will be. We pulled the trigger anyway and are supposed to pick one up Friday.

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Yes same gap I have as well guess it's normal? "The sales person removed hydraulic closer" can you elaborate?
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Old 10-22-2015, 01:43 AM   #27
Tbos
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Originally Posted by esmoglo View Post
Yes same gap I have as well guess it's normal? "The sales person removed hydraulic closer" can you elaborate?
The door has a small hydraulic prop rod to hold the door open and/or keep it from opening too far. The have a clip on them so they can be removed. He said he took it off and the problem was solved. I was looking at something on the other side when he did it, so I can't verify yet. If what he said is true the rod could be too strong, too long, or one end isn't mounted where it should be. I'll know more Friday.

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Old 10-22-2015, 09:10 AM   #28
esmoglo
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The door has a small hydraulic prop rod to hold the door open and/or keep it from opening too far. The have a clip on them so they can be removed. He said he took it off and the problem was solved. I was looking at something on the other side when he did it, so I can't verify yet. If what he said is true the rod could be too strong, too long, or one end isn't mounted where it should be. I'll know more Friday.

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Got yea bet its new and too strong for the door, in that case its bad because that pressure against the door can warp it unless it gives a bit we have only camped in the unit for 2 days. Bathroom door is just fine its perfect.

Did you look your unit over? Mine has tons of staple holes by the dinette booth near the couch a few stick out so bad they could cut up the kids I will be removing a few of them that are not flush. Having seen the Aerolight, jayco whitehawk and Rockwood Ultra Lite 2702WS (by the way Rockwood is absolutely has the best fit & finish) none of these units had staple holes like the Passport then again the Passport is quite a bit less in terms of price.
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Old 10-22-2015, 10:06 AM   #29
Tbos
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Got yea bet its new and too strong for the door, in that case its bad because that pressure against the door can warp it unless it gives a bit we have only camped in the unit for 2 days. Bathroom door is just fine its perfect.



Did you look your unit over? Mine has tons of staple holes by the dinette booth near the couch a few stick out so bad they could cut up the kids I will be removing a few of them that are not flush. Having seen the Aerolight, jayco whitehawk and Rockwood Ultra Lite 2702WS (by the way Rockwood is absolutely has the best fit & finish) none of these units had staple holes like the Passport then again the Passport is quite a bit less in terms of price.

I've seen staples in just about every unit by every manufacturer. I know the aluminum structure in the front pass through is better than many others. In some you can see the bed sheets hanging down.
I'm interested in knowing if your door is ok with the prop rod removed. There should be a clip on either end to remove it. Thanks.
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Old 10-22-2015, 07:07 PM   #30
RGene7001
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Congratulations with the new 2810! I am from South Fl as well. We just went to Palm Beach to buy our new 2670. Our daughter is 8, she is consistently above and beyond all the growth charts and it was not a problem for her to outgrow 2650 single bunk, so we were left without dinette. The new Passport impressed us with transitional interior, outdoor kitchen, better bathroom, TV mount; fit and finish appears to be almost Lexus-like, could not find any obvious defects. Some bugs remain, like absence of proper range hood ventilation, so the dealer will put a different hood. Again, decent blinds are put only over slideout windows. However, it still looks favorably compared with the Apex (small dinnette, shallow slideout ) and the White Hawk (extra 800 lb for nothing ).
Overall, our old 2650 deserves good grades. It was structurally solid, first and foremost, in spite of several cross country trips and higher, than avarage use over the years. It was simply not worse than other units thousands pounds heavier. Hopefully, the new one will follow the same path.
I was thinking about going to Michigan, but with trade-in, winter coming, and future service problems the benefits of it appeared less than clear.
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:35 AM   #31
esmoglo
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Originally Posted by RGene7001 View Post
Congratulations with the new 2810! I am from South Fl as well. We just went to Palm Beach to buy our new 2670. Our daughter is 8, she is consistently above and beyond all the growth charts and it was not a problem for her to outgrow 2650 single bunk, so we were left without dinette. The new Passport impressed us with transitional interior, outdoor kitchen, better bathroom, TV mount; fit and finish appears to be almost Lexus-like, could not find any obvious defects. Some bugs remain, like absence of proper range hood ventilation, so the dealer will put a different hood. Again, decent blinds are put only over slideout windows. However, it still looks favorably compared with the Apex (small dinnette, shallow slideout ) and the White Hawk (extra 800 lb for nothing ).
Overall, our old 2650 deserves good grades. It was structurally solid, first and foremost, in spite of several cross country trips and higher, than avarage use over the years. It was simply not worse than other units thousands pounds heavier. Hopefully, the new one will follow the same path.
I was thinking about going to Michigan, but with trade-in, winter coming, and future service problems the benefits of it appeared less than clear.

Excellent glad you got yours from a local dealer I purchased mine from a Michigan RV dealer SFLA dealers wanted near full MSRP would not back down. Overall I am happy with my unit just sharing my experiences it tows great and is a true lightweight.
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Old 10-29-2015, 01:30 PM   #32
esmoglo
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Did this today think it looks much nicer now.
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Old 11-02-2015, 04:54 PM   #33
esmoglo
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Lots of gaps on the kitchen countertop, also noticed quite a few gaps right at the edge molding that protects the side of countertops. I guess the cause for concern is is that these are not solid surface countertops and if water gets into the cracks it will damage the counter tops. Used a little industrial silicone and place it into those cracks.
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:22 AM   #34
lawdog130
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Back splash

esmoglo, your back splash looks amazing! What did you use as an adhesive? I might do something like that to mine.
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:25 AM   #35
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Antenna

Do any of you 2810BH owners have any idea where the antenna for the AM/FM radio is? My last TT and most of my friends campers have a SS whip on the roof but mine doesn't have one.
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Old 11-15-2015, 07:14 AM   #36
tommy_z
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The "antenna" is 2 wires probably bundled up behind your radio. Mine was. I pulled the radio and extended the wires upwards by taping to the back of the TV. Dramatic reception improvement.
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Old 11-15-2015, 03:46 PM   #37
Tbos
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My radio went bad already. The antenna was twist tied in a bundle behind the radio. It's a simple dipole wire. I'll probably drill a hole and route it in the corners so it's functional but not seen.
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Old 11-15-2015, 03:56 PM   #38
Tbos
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I replaced the useless bathroom vent fan with a Ventline one and added wire racks to the bathroom wall for toiletries. In the kitchen I added a 6 outlet power strip to the wall under the window. Since Keystone decided to omit an outside vent for the range, I installed one myself. I wasn't happy to cut a hole in the wall of a brand new camper but it was worth it! I also changed out the stock light bulbs and replaced them with LED lamps. In the bedroom I changed the light above the headboard area with a double directional reading lamp similar to those on an airplane.



Outside I changed the porch light to LED and added an LED strip under the awning. I also added a Husky 4,500 lb power tongue jack.



By far the best 2 modes were the range vent and the power jack.

How did you wire in the LED strip and power strip under the window?
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Old 11-16-2015, 05:27 AM   #39
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Antenna

Thank you for the replies on the antenna. That explains why the reception sucks. I guess I'll dig the wire out and do what you all suggested.
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Old 11-16-2015, 05:46 AM   #40
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How did you wire in the LED strip and power strip under the window?

Tom,

I bought the power strip at Home Depot. It had a 3 ft cord. I cut the plug off the end and wired it directly to the outlet under the counter. There is a about a 1 inch gap between bottom of the over sink cabinet and the wood that holds the original outlet. If you loosen the screws on the outlet and gently pull it down you will see what I mean. I drilled a hole just big enough to snake the wire from the power strip up into that gap to wire it in to the outlet. I then used a section of Wiremold cord channel to neaten up the the wire. I'll post a picture of that later also.

I bought a white LED strip that runs on 12VDC and wired it to the porch light. I also installed a waterproof switch on top of the porch light housing so I can control the LED strip separate from the porch light.
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