jsb5717 has given you some good tips.
Here's a couple more. Level and blocks. Yes, level the trailer as much as possible left to right by placing boards or lego blocks under the tires. If the level system determines there is too much side-slope, they error out. So, do as much leveling yourself, left to right by putting something under the tires of the low side.
Front to back level. (second)... after leveling as much as possible with boards under the tires left-right, or side-to-side, then unhitch. After unhitching, manually raise or lower the front to as close to level as you can. Regardless I still use a carpenters level right at the bay. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the closer it is the better.
Now that you have manually raised or lowered the front, you are now relatively close to level all around.... NOW hit the auto level.
Why? Because there is very, very little wiggle room if the trailer is off-level to start with for the auto level system to work. I think it's something like a 3% out of level and then the system errors out. So, getting it as close to level to start with eliminates this. Yes, when initially setting up, I always do this, just like when we had previous campers with manual hand crank stabilizers. If you do this, you've just eliminated 75% of all errors.
#3: Place enough blocks, boards, bricks, anything under each jack so they do not have to extend farther than the distance of the tire to the ground. I found if the jacks have to extend much more than 6 inches, they stroke out, causing errors. So, to eliminate stroke-outs, use lots of supports under each jack to make sure they don't "over extend". (Plus, this helps stabilize the camper better too).
#4. Your battery. If your batter is not fully charged, the system will error out. This was the most difficult thing for me to figure out. When we take longer trips and the residential refrigerator is running on the inverter, and we've been traving for hours and hours, the battery will be discharged to the point the jacks bog down. They just don't have enough power to work them. I've learned to recognize this by the sound of the motors. Usually the front landing jack sound tell me the full story. If that happens, then plug the truck back in. This will help boost the battery a bit more.
In my case, we never dry camp. We always have electricity. So, after getting manually (blocked) level, the next thing I do is plug into shore power before unhitching. Why? The jacks are now getting an extra battery boost, not only from the battery, but from the camper converter also.
Following these 4 steps, I've eliminated any errors, ever since.
Of course, hitching up, when I raise the jacks, I then manually have to reposition the height of the king pin to re-hitch. The auto system will return the camper to the point it was before hitting the auto level button. Remember, the auto level button is hit when the front-to-back is already close to level. This may not be the height of the hitch in the truck now.
Be patient. I took me 2 years to even get remotely comfortable with my Lippert 6 point auto leveling (electric) system.
But follow the tips everyone stated here, and you'll eliminate 99% of the errors.
I always carry lots of lumber for this very reason. Pictured here are my "blocks". I have a variety of long boards too.
Because, you just never know when you'll land on a really unlevel site on our travels:
Previous camper:
Current camper:
Bob/Kay
Linear Mode
