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Old 12-09-2017, 05:50 PM   #1
Freeheel4life
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Adding Samlex solar kit

So got my kit, and I have to decide on a controller location. It seems like at the very front of my unit wires run into unit from battery just after large breakers mounted to frame. Would like to follow that path, but have no access to wherever those wires are running. I'm assuming at the point they go into trailer they are between walls the whole time. Is there any way to pop a hole from my pass thru storage to gain access to where those wires are coming in.
My thoughts are to run wiring for batts to controller inside of pass thru storage and mount controller looming into bedroom at front on little bedside pedastle on right side of bed.
Totally open to other ideas or thoughts on locations. Ideally I want to remove the junk head unit and run everything thru this storage area in my slide. Would allow me to build a panel to cover hole with room for my controller and a nicer bluetooth capable head unit. Only problem is it seems that harness runs back up wall of my slide, overhead, then out back of slide. Seems like a lot of pulling wires but may be my answer. Does a guy drop light fixtures in slide and hope to find that same harness??
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:46 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Adding Samlex solar kit

As a rule, all the 12V wiring is in the underbelly and brought up through the floor. On slides, it is usually brought out of the underbelly at the frame edge and then out to a corner of the slide floor.

When we install solar, we look for a good location for the controller that allows easy access to roof and underbelly. We usually drill up through the roof from the inside, and then route the cables through the floor of the same wall.

If the refer isn’t on a slide, the vent is an excellent place to drop the cables from the panel without drilling a hole in the membrane.
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Old 12-09-2017, 08:00 PM   #3
Freeheel4life
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So is there anyway to access wiring without cutting the poly weaved matting on underbelly?? My first panel I'm actually not going to mount. Built a couple legs and running it basically as a sandwich board for now so I can move it. Have the option to add 4 more 100w panels to same controller but wanted to see what 100w panel would do before I went nuts.
From what I can see crawling around I have about a half dozen places where wire is loomed and goes up through floor. It does appear wire comes out of unit at rear and goes back into slide and there's a big spring and a loop in harness to accomadate out travel.
Also curious with upgrades I want to do in future if I would be better off running something like a 4ga positive and ground to a fused distribution block?
http://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-5029-S...4aAkK0EALw_wcB
Used these before at work. Also trying to stick with components I can get at cost vs retail.
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Old 12-09-2017, 08:35 PM   #4
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How is the underbelly fabric attached? You could cut slits where needed and use “scrim tape” to seal the cuts. Scrim tape is made for repairing the fabric, sticks like no tomorrow and lasts a LONG time. Maybe a small slice at each end and using fishtape to pull the wires. You can pull the breaker/fuse panel and I’m willing to bet there’s a big hole to get the wires into the underbelly. Then you only have to figure out what to do at the battery(s). Opening up an interior wall is easy as long as it ISNT on an wall that is also the exterior. Simply remove the batten trim, and then the small staples at the edge and voila you can get to the ceiling. At that point you can drill from the inside through the roof.

I don’t have solar, but I’ve heard that 100W isn’t a whole lot if your using a lot of stuff.
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Old 12-09-2017, 09:04 PM   #5
Freeheel4life
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From what I can tell the fabric is just "sandwiched" in place between frame rails and cross members and the insulation/floor above thru entire bottom then goes up into walls all around outside edge. Will have to look a little closer when I'm working on it at the shop tomorrow. Thanks for tip on interior walls. Hadn't thought of that. I regularly drill holes into 60-100k+ plus fiberglass boats at work so not scared to roll my sleeves up and do some fabricating , but also made zero mods amd lots of mistakes with my 86 komfort so want to go about it properly.
Not running an inverter currently, may in the future. So 12v loads during day are fridge and furnace, which I keep set low while we are out skiing, and the low amp draw stereo memory, detectors etc. Rarely use any 110 during the day currently and need the Honda running if we do.
Mostly wanted to be able to
A) tend batteries with panel and controller while it sits in storage. Which should be more than adequate
B) Hopefully take a little bit of load off the Honda and shorten charge times in the afternoon/evenings.
Considering we are primarily using it in inclement weather, shortest days, and when rays are at their worst angle I am not expecting much though, hence why I didn't go all out on 500w....yet.
Probably could have gone with a cheaper solar tender for batts but wanted something that goes into a float mode as well when batteries are topped up and couldn't really find anything I liked.
DW and I are hoping to buy property with end goal of retirement there, but using camper on it until we build. So trying to set up trailer so we can hopefully use a stationary array at site that I would simply plug in upon arrival until we had utilities handled at said property.
Maybe I'm putting cart before the horse but trying to think ahead.
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Old 12-10-2017, 03:30 AM   #6
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The furnace will be a huge battery and propane draw, more so at night when temps drop. Your on the right track, thinking ahead is a good thing. You might want to consider going to a bank of 6V batteries for a higher amount of amp hours. If you currently have a single gp24 even changing to a single 27 will be an improvement.
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:00 AM   #7
Freeheel4life
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Ya, I talked to my Interstate guy at work the other day on cost. Purchased TT with 2 group 24 12v at tongue. PO installed a very nice metal battery box with locking lid. So at this point I'm a bit conflicted. Would like to switch to 6v but also would need a new box as they are taller. Having a hard time ditching 2, 1 year old and batteries due to overall cost and buying new boxes for the 6v's. My box is just big enough (I think) to switch to 2 group 27 AGMs. So I could net some Ah gains going that route and keep my nice box...
Honestly the only time I've had 12v issues with my current set up is showing up at storage to dead batteries.
The more I have thought about it I think controller is going to get mounted to kitchen cabinets near front door. Should give the ability to drop wires from roof panels if I add some near fridge and tank vents and should give me a straight run from batteries up try floor.
I've looked at a few different ways guys are putting holes in a sealing an back up. What do y'all do??
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:31 AM   #8
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We use a plastic plate that covers the hole in the roof, has rounded slots for the wire to go through. then butyl tape on the edge of the plate and LOTS of dicor self leveling.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...=19&ajaxhist=0
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Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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