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Old 06-12-2011, 02:51 AM   #21
dave-g
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I just got my Island this weekend. Looks great and the wife loves it.
I can not believe how well it matches.
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:56 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by dave-g View Post
I just got my Island this weekend. Looks great and the wife loves it.
I can not believe how well it matches.
Awesome, glad to hear it worked out! That makes 4 known 325srx owners active on this site. Dave-G anything mods you've done to the unit since you've owned it?
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:19 AM   #23
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I put a 3m stick on rain gutter over the rear door. I got that the day I picked up the rv. When I told the dealer what I was doing he thought it was a great idea. The dealer say over 50% of all toy haulers that come in used have a bad floor by the rear door.

I pick up a Honda gen. the es3000. Thats the older model thats 140lbs. Now looking to run some #10 or 8 wire in some pvc pipe under the rv to the front.

I would like to be able to run the generator in the bed of the pick up while at a rest stop.

Also I'm making a dirt bike hold down system for the garage. I'm trying not to let the wheels of the dirt bike push against the outside walls, or at least having a piece of 3/4 plywood on the length of the wall to spread out the load. I have to get 3 dirt bikes in the back, its a lot tighter than I thought it would be.
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Old 06-18-2011, 03:35 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by dave-g View Post
I put a 3m stick on rain gutter over the rear door. I got that the day I picked up the rv. When I told the dealer what I was doing he thought it was a great idea. The dealer say over 50% of all toy haulers that come in used have a bad floor by the rear door.

I pick up a Honda gen. the es3000. Thats the older model thats 140lbs. Now looking to run some #10 or 8 wire in some pvc pipe under the rv to the front.

I would like to be able to run the generator in the bed of the pick up while at a rest stop.

Also I'm making a dirt bike hold down system for the garage. I'm trying not to let the wheels of the dirt bike push against the outside walls, or at least having a piece of 3/4 plywood on the length of the wall to spread out the load. I have to get 3 dirt bikes in the back, its a lot tighter than I thought it would be.
I am still looking for a solution for the rear door gutter. Haven't seen an aftermarket solution I like yet. Can u post a picture of what you did?

I went the route of batteries, solar and inverter to make my own 110v power. The inside of the skirting on an srx is all open, so you might want to consider fishing your electrical line thru there to get from back of the unit to the truck bed.

Check out this site. www.boltiton.com. They have an interesting setup for bikes. I Have thought about the need at some point for 3 dirt bikes, I think it would require loading them backwards into the unit. Definitely be interested in what you end up doing. Also check out this link.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...pa/pging/1.cfm

This thread has an install for a road bike on the SRX cousin the mountaineer 347. It is for a road bike but it might give you some inspiration on your install...
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:54 AM   #25
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Genset while stopped

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Originally Posted by dave-g View Post
.... #10 or 8 wire in some pvc pipe under the rv to the front...........I would like to be able to run the generator in the bed of the pick up while at a rest stop.
We have used ours in the truck bed while moving and stopped to run the aircon, in-fact, we started the genset about 2hrs prior to stopping allowing the unit to be comfortable. Everything worked out well, the unit was not the usual hotbox in the Walmart parking lot when we arrived! When I ran the cord, I thought it would be temporary, however now do not see any reason to change it. I went to Homedepot and bought a 10-3 50' contractor grade cord, was around $75. I also ordered a 50amp - 110 adapter on the internet and ran the cord under the unit along the frame rail, using plastic retainers to hold the cord. The cords extra length stows in the front left propane compartment and when we need it, just drops down through the open bottom, into the truck bed. While driving we cant hear or feel the genset, I made a sound board out of plywood and styrafoam. Getting ready for another trip, off to Myrtle Beach for two weeks, will definitely be using the aircon during that trip.
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:24 AM   #26
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did you pull the bottom covering when you ran the wire or did you run it exposed?
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:14 AM   #27
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10/3 cord

I ran it exposed, using the underbelly screws to secure the cord with plastic holders.
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Old 06-20-2011, 02:05 AM   #28
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1st time posting pictures

rain gutter
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...9/IMAG0627.jpg

my baby on the way home
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0610-1.jpg

the rain gutter is a little wavy- on a 100+ degree day it came off , it is only on with glue. I have read that putting a bead of silicone in the top edge is the secret to making it stay on.
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Old 06-20-2011, 02:17 AM   #29
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also here is a picture of the island I added to the kitchen.

http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...9/IMAG0629.jpg

http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...9/IMAG0631.jpg


what a great find- it is almost a perfect match. Thanks for the idea.
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Old 06-20-2011, 12:41 PM   #30
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Island

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also here is a picture of the island I added to the kitchen.

http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...9/IMAG0629.jpg

http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...9/IMAG0631.jpg


what a great find- it is almost a perfect match. Thanks for the idea.
Way too funny! Just showed wife unit, she thought it was a pic of our trailer. Happy you like it, it was a real find that's for sure, I'll post a pic of how we strap ours down in the garage.
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Old 06-24-2011, 01:54 AM   #31
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Check out this site. www.boltiton.com. They have an interesting setup for bikes. I Have thought about the need at some point for 3 dirt bikes, I think it would require loading them backwards into the unit. Definitely be interested in what you end up doing. Also check out this link.


I like that but there is not enough room. I've decided to make my own. But I'm copying there hold down system.
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Old 08-03-2011, 02:10 AM   #32
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Island update- I do not know how we could have survived our 10 day trip with out it. Seems like we used it every meal. Even when eating- had extra food and drinks on it.

Great find-
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:06 PM   #33
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Island

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Island update- I do not know how we could have survived our 10 day trip with out it. Seems like we used it every meal. Even when eating- had extra food and drinks on it.

Great find-
Yup, we have found that the extra counter top is used during the entire vacation, also the cabinet space underneath is awesome for storage.
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Old 05-12-2012, 04:32 PM   #34
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I just bought a used 2010 325SRX....I have 3 kids....Did anyone build a wall to protect kids from falling off the bunk? Also, did anyone add a bed in the toy hauler area?
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:15 AM   #35
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I just bought a used 2010 325SRX....I have 3 kids....Did anyone build a wall to protect kids from falling off the bunk? Also, did anyone add a bed in the toy hauler area?
Our son is just about to turn 3, so it's currently the "clubhouse" where he plays with his toys and has the occasional nap. My wife found a safety rail that is used for a standard bed for kids. It stops kids from rolling out of bed. 90 degree posts on each end, with netting and rails connecting. Length is adjustable and fits under the pad in the loft. I have it adjusted so there is an opening right at the ladder. I am sure a major department store would have these...

Bedding in the garage when I don't have toys in there and I have guests, I use two camping cots. I have two foam mattresses cut to fit on top which have slip covers. Good for two guests, Also becomes the man cave when raining..
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:09 AM   #36
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Rain gutter

[QUOTE=dave-g;14725]I put a 3m stick on rain gutter over the rear door. I got that the day I picked up the rv. When I told the dealer what I was doing he thought it was a great idea. The dealer say over 50% of all toy haulers that come in used have a bad floor by the rear door.

Where did you get the rain gutter?
Thanks,
GB
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:17 PM   #37
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Here's an example of what you want. You can also get it from Camping World and many other RV supply retail stores. Due to the design of the seal on the 325SRX rear door adding the gutter (and preferably a double seal at the top, I added 3M 08650 Bulb Weather Strip to the existing seal on the top of the door) is pretty much mandatory if you want to avoid leaks in heavy rain. The stock seal design is woefully inadequate.

I used some of the leftover gutter over the refrigerator vent panel as this is another potential leak point in the 325SRX (or at least it was in mine.) In heavy rain water sheets down the side of the unit and enters the vent panel, and gets into the wall. Some gutter above the vent panel helps avoid this.
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Old 07-14-2012, 12:01 PM   #38
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Weight in trailers is always about construction. I own a second trailer that i do not tow that is 42 feet long with three slides, solid cherry cabinets, residential grade furniture, gorgeous woodwork, heavy insulation, heavy chassis. It is on a permanent site in S. VA. I would need a big dually to tow it. Look closely at my 26 foot runnin' around toy hauler and you will see pressboard cabinet doors, lots of plastic laminates, plastic drawers, no oven, a smaller refer, no slides, lightweight furniture, no carpets. The big one weighs more than twice what the little one weighs. It is all about what you want to tow, what you want to spend on gas and design/purpose. We live in the big one part of the year in cold weather and family gathers there. We travel and play with the little one, two of us and doggies and motorcycles. We've owned other trailers and loved them all. Buy a lay-out you love and don't get something too small for you.
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Old 12-14-2013, 06:21 AM   #39
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Sheet metal gaps near rear stabilizers?

I've had my SRX325 for about 8 months now and it has been plagued with little problems. I've had to have (4) new main control panels (they finally fixed the issue), a remote control brain box (they caught the camper on fire while fixing another issue), the awning motor had to be replaced by recall, the main dometic AC had to be replaced, and the list goes on.

My current issue (to anyone who would be of assistance) is that on our last camping trip I found a rat running around in our bathroom after we went for a bike ride. I promptly ran him out and thought the issue might be over, but wanted to see where he could have gotten in. I found two rather large openings, each by both the rear stabilizers, that look like Keystone ran out of enough sheet metal for the outer skin to reach the underside of the camper. The sheet metal comes about 3 or 4 inches from wrapping completely to the bottom at those points. The rest of the camper outer skin meets the bottom nicely. The openings are just at the stabilizers only. I wasn't sure that was the entry point until we left the campground with my wife driving behind. The same rat or maybe his sibling fell out of the camper at the back left stabilizer going down the road at 30 mph.

Does anybody else have that same issue? Or is it just mine? Thanks in advance, your response would be very helpful in getting Keystone to fix this issue by pop-riveting some sheet metal around those areas to keep critters out.
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:38 AM   #40
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Rat

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I've had my SRX325 for about 8 months now and it has been plagued with little problems. I've had to have (4) new main control panels (they finally fixed the issue), a remote control brain box (they caught the camper on fire while fixing another issue), the awning motor had to be replaced by recall, the main dometic AC had to be replaced, and the list goes on.

My current issue (to anyone who would be of assistance) is that on our last camping trip I found a rat running around in our bathroom after we went for a bike ride. I promptly ran him out and thought the issue might be over, but wanted to see where he could have gotten in. I found two rather large openings, each by both the rear stabilizers, that look like Keystone ran out of enough sheet metal for the outer skin to reach the underside of the camper. The sheet metal comes about 3 or 4 inches from wrapping completely to the bottom at those points. The rest of the camper outer skin meets the bottom nicely. The openings are just at the stabilizers only. I wasn't sure that was the entry point until we left the campground with my wife driving behind. The same rat or maybe his sibling fell out of the camper at the back left stabilizer going down the road at 30 mph.

Does anybody else have that same issue? Or is it just mine? Thanks in advance, your response would be very helpful in getting Keystone to fix this issue by pop-riveting some sheet metal around those areas to keep critters out.
I must say, I'm missing something here. How did a Rat get from the outside of the unit into the bathroom? Regardless of openings near stabilizers (which I'm not understanding) where is the breach between out and inside the unit?
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