Electrical/Power Question

Skins44 · 12-31-2018, 08:57 AM

Hello All!

When i have my trailer parked in my driveway, i keep it plugged into 120. I recently came home from a trip and connected power to my 120 via a 30A-120 adapter plug. Since it will be sitting for a few weeks, i disconnected the negative connection to my battery so i do not overcharge. When i did that, i lost all power in my RV. It's not getting power from my 120 for some reason.

Any thoughts?

**JRTJH** · 12-31-2018, 09:05 AM

You may have a bad "auto reset" circuit breaker on the tongue of your trailer or you may have bad/blown "reverse polarity fuses" on the power center converter/charger.

The WFCO converter charger "should not" (if it's operating properly) overcharge your batteries. The converter/charger is a 3 level charging system that goes into a "trickle charge condition" to maintain your batteries without overcharging. That said, you should ALWAYS check your battery electrolyte level at least monthly. Most people check weekly or every two weeks. Battery checks are vital and, if you disconnect the batteries and then reconnect them later, the initial charging can evaporate the fluid level anyway, so if the system is functioning properly, you won't see any significant difference in either leaving it plugged in or disconnecting the batteries....

Keep in mind, you MUST have the batteries connected when moving the slides.... You can destroy your converter/charger if the batteries are not connected with a load placed on that device by operating the slide motor.

Bisjoe · 12-31-2018, 09:07 AM

With the battery disconnected you will not have any 12 volt power, since it comes through the batteries even when plugged into shore power. You should have only 120, so outlets will work, and AC devices such as the AC and Microwave, but nothing 12 volt like furnace and lights.

Skins44 · 12-31-2018, 09:09 AM

Thanks John. Are the reverse polarity fuses accessible via the breaker panel?

KeithInUpstateNY · 12-31-2018, 09:13 AM

If you lost power to the AC too (microwave, etc.) my guess is that the negative wire to the battery shorted out when you disconnected it and the main AC breaker tripped. In the future you should disconnect the battery before you plug into AC. I always put a finger from a rubber glove, held in place with a binder clip, over the terminal on the negative wire so it can't short out on the frame of the trailer when it is disconnected. But you shouldn't need to disconnect it to prevent overcharging. The charge controller will monitor the battery and turn off and on as needed to keep the battery fully charged. A battery that is left disconnected will lose about one percent of charge per day so in a month it can lose enough charge to permanently damage the battery.

Skins44 · 12-31-2018, 09:24 AM

Thanks Compeakw. Think that is exactly what happened. Although, I thought my power was disconnected. However, i am not 100% positive. I replayed the steps i took through my head and couldn't remember what i did lol. It was a bad day for me trailer-wise. When i hooked up to come home, i left one of my anti-sway bars leaning against my trailer when i lowered it. Put a hole in the front of my camper (thankfully only 1/2" deep and not through to my storage). Had to temp fix that with JB wet weld, then flex seal tape over that, then auto-silicone around the edges until i can replace it the whole panel. Good Grief.....

KeithInUpstateNY · 12-31-2018, 10:00 AM

You're welcome. Sorry to hear about the damage to your trailer. I think we've all had "oh s***" moments. Sounds like a good temporary fix.

Keith

**sourdough** · 12-31-2018, 12:14 PM

I will echo the other sentiments; leave it plugged in and forget about pulling the battery cable. The converter will take care of it. Just check that water in the batteries. I added a watering system to mine because my batteries were so hard to get to and don't know how I got by without it now.

As far as power, make sure which power you lost; 12vdc or 120vac or both. All of the things listed above could be potential problems. Start at the start and work your way through until you find where the power was lost - whether AC or DC.

Skins44 · 12-31-2018, 12:23 PM

Thanks all for your replies, it is appreciated. I just went to my camper and started the microwave and it ran. So, 120 is working. My battery shows 2/3 full. That may be from when it was running lights and other things without the 120. I'll keep any eye on the level and see if it recharges to full.

Thanks again,
Steve

**JRTJH** · 12-31-2018, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skins44

Thanks John. Are the reverse polarity fuses accessible via the breaker panel?

The reverse polarity fuses are the two RED 40 amp fuses located to the left of the vertical row of 12 VDC fuses in the DC distribution panel. They are shown in this photo of the Power Center. On "SOME" power centers, the converter/charger is a separately mounted component, but that is usually on larger fifth wheels.

As for the damage to your trailer front panel, rather than replace the entire panel, if your "temp repair" is more or less "a permanent repair" and is on the lower front of your trailer, you might consider just installing a "diamond plate stone guard" on the lower front edge.

Skins44 · 12-31-2018, 12:53 PM

yup, that's what my panel looks like John.

My temp fix is pretty solid for now. I do like your suggestion and when i pull the trigger on a permanent fix, that is probably exactly what i will do. Thanks!

**chuckster57** · 12-31-2018, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bisjoe

With the battery disconnected you will not have any 12 volt power, since it comes through the batteries even when plugged into shore power. You should have only 120, so outlets will work, and AC devices such as the AC and Microwave, but nothing 12 volt like furnace and lights.

If the battery is disconnected or not installed, all the 12V systems in the coach will work if plugged into shore power. You’ll be using the power provided by the converter as long as it is operational.

Skins44 · 12-31-2018, 03:18 PM

Thanks Chuckster

went back to the camper this evening. Here is the status (sorry to keep this thread going)

- fridge seems to be working
- microwave runs, but doesn't seem to be "full throttle" (maybe its just me)
- i opened the fridge with the microwave running and the fridge lights were blinking
- lights are dim in the trailer and the more lights i turn on, the dimmer each gets
- battery level shows 0!

what in the world is going on?

Steveo57 · 12-31-2018, 09:42 PM

I'm assuming you reconnected the battery. It sounds like the battery is not getting charged. Did you check the reverse power fuses?

German Shepherd Guy · 01-01-2019, 07:22 AM

Skins44, have you figured it out yet? Was/is it the "reverse power" fuse?
Talk about a cascading problem. Who would have thought?
Sourdough wrote:

"I will echo the other sentiments; leave it plugged in and forget about pulling the battery cable. The converter will take care of it. Just check that water in the batteries. I added a watering system to mine because my batteries were so hard to get to and don't know how I got by without it now."
A watering system? How does that work?
What would keep the Watering System from freezing up?
Skins44, keep us informed and good luck.

Skins44 · 01-01-2019, 07:34 AM

so i went back out to my camper last night and EVERYTHING appears normal. Battery level back to full, no dim or flickering lights (120 is good).

I checked the 2 40 amp reverse power fuses and they were fine. I switched all the breakers on/off a few times.

Scratching my head on this one. This is actually the 2nd time this has happened after returning from a trip. Maybe something is not "talking" or registering in the electrical system right away? I may contact my dealer and/or Keystone.

travelin texans · 01-01-2019, 07:38 AM

As mentioned numerous times, if you don't have a surge protector/ems on your incoming 120 volt, GET ONE & ALWAYS plug it in to protect your rv regardless of where it's plugged in, at home, storage or rv park.

Steveo57 · 01-01-2019, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skins44

so i went back out to my camper last night and EVERYTHING appears normal. Battery level back to full, no dim or flickering lights (120 is good).

I checked the 2 40 amp reverse power fuses and they were fine. I switched all the breakers on/off a few times.

Scratching my head on this one. This is actually the 2nd time this has happened after returning from a trip. Maybe something is not "talking" or registering in the electrical system right away? I may contact my dealer and/or Keystone.

I'd go through and check all the connections and wiring from the battery back to the converter. It could be a loose/bad connection or terminal crimp. I've found several bad crimps where the wire pulls out and also loose connections where they didn't tighten it up at all.

Skins44 · 01-01-2019, 08:04 AM

Thanks Texans. I do use a surge protector at the campsite, but at home i do not. I will start.

Steve0, checking the terminations include behind my breaker panel? I am only somewhat comfortable with electrical tasks. I will certainly check at the location of the battery. I get a little uneasy when poking around the panel.

**JRTJH** · 01-01-2019, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skins44

Thanks Texans. I do use a surge protector at the campsite, but at home i do not. I will start.

Steve0, checking the terminations include behind my breaker panel? I am only somewhat comfortable with electrical tasks. I will certainly check at the location of the battery. I get a little uneasy when poking around the panel.

Unplug your shore power line and remove the battery negative terminal (at the battery) and tighten all of the lugs (screws) in the power center. With no power on the system, you won't "short anything out" or "burn things up" or "get knocked on your butt".... I check and tighten all the electrical connections in my power center every year as part of the "get ready for camping season" checks. Other connections in the camper, I check as I wind up in those areas. Things like water pump connections, water heater connections, refrigerator "back side" connections, etc. Even if I'm just changing a light bulb, I check the wire nuts on the fixture to make sure they're tight.

As you clean, repair, check things or turn something on or off after use, make it a habit to check things for "normal". That includes looking for "smoked or charred wires", loose connectors, frayed insulation, wet spots in the floor of a cabinet, displaced dust or dirt, light shining through an opening, etc. Even if you don't have time to fix it right then, make a mental note to go back when you do have time and check that issue thoroughly.

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