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Old 08-12-2019, 01:41 AM   #161
WNY Bullet
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It's been awhile since I modified anything on our trailer...

1) Installed a MICTUNING RV Keyless Entry Door Lock
Our latch was never right, we needed to really slam the door ignorer for the latch to work. Now if we go for a walk, we don't need to bring our keys with us!

2) Installed a Stromberg Carlson Jet-30 Hitching Post
Tired of everything laying on the ground

3) Installed Mopeka LP Tank Check Tank Halos
The small riser clips kept falling off every time I would get the tanks filled.
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Old 08-13-2019, 02:52 AM   #162
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Here are some images from the latest mods. The gasket material behind the door lock will be replaced with black material once it arrives. The opening cut in the door was larger than the door latch, so I had to use the gasket to cover the exposed opening. I will try to cut the black gasket a little smoother than the job I did on the red material.




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Old 08-13-2019, 07:01 AM   #163
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Installed a Wacko Products Dometic RV A/C Silencer Kit tonight and what a difference. My DW couldn't stand when the AC kicked in, she complained that it was too loud! This kit dropped the db down to a much lower level and uses a much better filter too!







Doesn't this remove the ability to open the diverter and use the "quick chill" feature?
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:42 AM   #164
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Doesn't this remove the ability to open the diverter and use the "quick chill" feature?
Yes it does, but we never used that feature. Having the DW happy was much more of a priority than the dump feature.
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:47 AM   #165
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Black rubber material came in today, so I changed it out. It blends in much better!


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Old 08-13-2019, 12:09 PM   #166
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Yes it does, but we never used that feature. Having the DW happy was much more of a priority than the dump feature.
Certainly. Haha. It's not worth that to me then, I wish it still allowed that feature. We find the quick chill absolutely invaluable when we've just arrived and set up on a hot summer day. The AC is very loud though.
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Old 08-13-2019, 12:26 PM   #167
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Certainly. Haha. It's not worth that to me then, I wish it still allowed that feature. We find the quick chill absolutely invaluable when we've just arrived and set up on a hot summer day. The AC is very loud though.
The way the silencer kit works is to "bend" the incoming air to muffle the noise. What they do is close off the "dump feature" so all the air goes through the ceiling ducting and move the warm air inlet from the front (so it flows straight up into the A/C) and route the incoming air to where the dump feature used to be. That way, the air comes into the "silencer kit", makes a sharp bend, flows through the plastic kit body, makes another sharp bend and enters the A/C warm air box. Those two bends are the 'secret" to how the silencer kit muffles the "rushing air sound".

Actually, you can do pretty much the same thing and keep your dump feature by building a box located from the front half of the A/C ceiling shroud that is located forward with inlets on the sides or the bottom of that box. As long as the incoming air "bends two (or more times) as it enters the warm air return on the rooftop unit, it'll make the A/C a bit less noisy.

I've played around with a "home built mockup" that works, but looks far too "cheesey" to put on my ceiling. I got the idea from the "quiet cool" system currently used in high end fifth wheels. They route the incoming air from the sides of the coach ceiling and bend it two or three times on the way to the rooftop warm air box. My mockup only bends the air 2 times, but it's quite a bit quieter than the OEM ceiling shroud.
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Old 08-13-2019, 12:51 PM   #168
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I've seen a few diy baffle boxes that looked okay, that did allow for use of the diverter one way or another.

I get how it works, I just wonder if they could have engineered it to still provide a way to open the quick chill pathway up. Obviously for many the noise reduction is more important, but I don't think so for me.
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Old 08-14-2019, 07:43 PM   #169
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WNY Bullet- Wow! You've done a lot to your rig and I imagine it's a great rig as a result! I've often considered replacing my entry latch on my '15 Outback for one like you have but on other forums I've read a lot of dissatisfied people on their extended reviews (12-18months) of these things failing. While the keys work, the electronics do not. What brand did you go with?

The two upgrades we did this year was 1)added the sleep number bed (queen) (we have a king at the house but it's not for everyone) and the Torklift Glowstep (4 step) from etrailer. The steps were super simple to install as a retrofit and we love them. The in-laws have the MoreRyde steps in their 2018 Alpine and I thought I wonted that before I found these (I think somebody on this forum pointed out the Torklift). I like that they are adjustable, they connect to the ground, I can still get into my coach if the guy next to me in the storage lot parks too close, they don't dirty the interior, and they eliminate the spring-board effect of the OEM stairs. Lastly, I've tripped and stumbled more times than I like to admit on my in-laws stairs because I always step off to the side of the stairs when exiting their coach and the sidewalls on those MorRyde are rather large opposed to the Torklift. I initially ordered the three step (a little less expensive) but then Etrailer contacted me and wanted to confirm the dimensions and recommended the 4 step because to purchase an additional step is almost twice the cost of the paying the up-charge on the 4-step. Plus, you can remove the steps in the Torklift to adjust the height. I'm glad I took their advice because on our coach, the 4 step is perfect in most situations and if it's a little too big, the feet also adjust to compensate. Can't say enough good things about those stairs. Also, they are really light too and you can put either their lock or any lock on the stairs to keep honest people honest! (No I don't get compensated to say all this about their steps, but you'd think I do.)
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Old 08-14-2019, 08:18 PM   #170
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Mike- I like the power cable and chain hanger that you installed and I see that you use a cover over your power landing leg. The one simple mod that I did to protect my landing leg was as a result of water penetration and destroying the switch that activated the landing leg while we were coming home from the Smokey Mountains causing us to stop at the CW near Ashville, NC - I think it was near there, and have them quote me $450 and 5 hours wait to have it done right there, which I politely declined. Ended up taking it apart once we got it home, researched it a little bit and bought a $8 dollar switch and fixed it myself using a lot of waterproof silicone in the process.

However, my insurance policy is an inverted 5 gallon bucket from HD with a 3" hole cut in its lid (has a rubber seal). The inverted bucket covers the landing leg's head by inverting it over the landing leg and snapping the bucket onto its lid (the landing leg itself goes through the 3" hole) thus creating a weather proof environment for the main assembly of the landing leg (ie the electric motor). Of course, I have to remove the bucket every time I need to operate the landing leg but I would have to remove a cover as well. The clip that you show holding your power cord and chains could work in my set-up but maybe hard to access and hang up and clip. Instead I stuff my cable i and chains inside the LP cover - the cahins somtimes call down but the power cord stays put.

The other added benefit of the bucket is it now serves as a place to put a sticker/decals from every place we visit (big National Park/Site/Battlefield/forrest people). The downside, there is a finite amount of space on the bucket so some decals are starting to get covered up!
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