Towing Capacity

[Memark]

Been looking to buy a new truck that can haul my 5th wheel better . But can’t seem to get a straight answer from dealer on the actual towing capacity of their Trucks is there a web site that you put the VIN in and it tells you what the towing capacity of that truck is . Any help would be appreciated and helpfull in deciding which truck I will buy. Thanks

[notanlines]

Better that you tell us (generally knowledgeable members who don’t have a dog in the fight) which RV you own, year and model, and the members will tell you what size truck and what necessary options you might want.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by notanlines

Better that you tell us (generally knowledgeable members who don’t have a dog in the fight) which RV you own, year and model, and the members will tell you what size truck and what necessary options you might want.

Yup!! “Tow rating” is not the number you want to use anyway. Remember the commercial with the tundra pulling the space shuttle?

[peanut]

^ ^ ^
X2

Tow capacity is an almost useless number.
What is important is payload capacity and hitch weight.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Yup!! “Tow rating” is not the number you want to use anyway. Remember the commercial with the tundra pulling the space shuttle?

So true, the real numbers are payload and rear axle rating. Just an example our 2016 Ram 3500 DRW has a tow rating of over 29,000#. My empty payload from the sticker is 5,411#, BUT ready to hook up the 5th wheel my truck weighs 10,000# on a GVWR of 14,000# so I am down to 4,000# of carrying capacity, limiting me to a 5th wheel between 16,000# to about maybe 20,000# depending on the weight percentage 20% to 25% of the 5th wheel GVW, when looking good percentage use is 23% of trailers GVWR.

[RJS3791RD]

Ford publishes a towing guide that lists all the specs based upon engine, drive line (two or four wheel) and axle ratio. It lists gross combined weight ratings, payload capacity, as well as towing capacities based upon hitch type. It is a good “reference” guide

[Pull Toy]

For the true numbers on a particular truck, look for the sticker on the drivers door pillar. Those are the factory numbers for that individual truck based on equipment and options.


Good luck,

[wiredgeorge]

This should be interesting!

[Memark]

I have a 2021 Cougar 368MBI seems like this more complicated than I thought t would be

[vampress_me]

Originally Posted by Memark

I have a 2021 Cougar 368MBI seems like this more complicated than I thought t would be

Not more complicated, just takes a little more info and time to get the answer you want/ need. The guys on here (or at least most of them) will help and are a font of information for towing within specs.

The best piece to remember - payload is the number you are mainly going to be concerned with for towing a fifth wheel. That is typically the amount (poundage?) of loading you will run out of first when towing a camper.

The next best piece of info - all manufacturers will have a yellow sticker on the drivers side door jamb stating what that payload is for that specific truck. That yellow sticker has the important information on it. The numbers printed by a manufacturer in any booklet/ brochure they give will NOT be even close to what is reality for most trucks people look at purchasing, due to being a usually stripped down truck that is 2 wheel drive (trim levels, sunroofs, etc all add weight to a vehicle which is subtracted from its payload capacity).

[sourdough]

It's not difficult if you throw out the advertising/sales gimmick numbers and focus on the real ones.

Here's a link to your trailer;

https://www.keystonerv.com/product/c...orplans/368MBI

Note the gvw of the trailer (dry weight plus payload) is about 14k lbs. Since it is a 5th wheel estimate the pin weight of the trailer will be approx. 23% of the gvw or 3220 lbs. People, gear etc. will be added to the required payload of the truck so figure 3220 + 500lbs. Now we're looking for a truck with a minimum of a 3720lb. (approximated) payload. You are in 1 ton truck territory.

Towing capacity, dry trailer weights etc. are meaningless numbers meant go snare buyers then leave them in a lurch.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by sourdough

It's not difficult if you throw out the advertising/sales gimmick numbers and focus on the real ones.

Here's a link to your trailer;

https://www.keystonerv.com/product/c...orplans/368MBI

Note the gvw of the trailer (dry weight plus payload) is about 14k lbs. Since it is a 5th wheel estimate the pin weight of the trailer will be approx. 23% of the gvw or 3220 lbs. People, gear etc. will be added to the required payload of the truck so figure 3220 + 500lbs. Now we're looking for a truck with a minimum of a 3720lb. (approximated) payload. You are in 1 ton truck territory.

Towing capacity, dry trailer weights etc. are meaningless numbers meant go snare buyers then leave them in a lurch.

Memark, this is pretty much right on.
I see two items I don’t agree with 100%
Sourdough only estimates an additional 500# for passengers hitch and other stuff. He may travel light, we on the hand lost 1,400# to those items, we have an in bed tool box with some heavy items.

Next almost 40’ bunk house, means more passengers, then there is the 2,285# trailer payload. If you have children your stuff and the children’s stuff could easily put a the 13,980# GVWR.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Memark, this is pretty much right on.
I see two items I don’t agree with 100%
Sourdough only estimates an additional 500# for passengers hitch and other stuff. He may travel light, we on the hand lost 1,400# to those items, we have an in bed tool box with some heavy items.

Next almost 40’ bunk house, means more passengers, then there is the 2,285# trailer payload. If you have children your stuff and the children’s stuff could easily put a the 13,980# GVWR.

I was trying to illustrate how the smallest of loads in the truck is going to put the combo in 1 ton territory.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I was trying to illustrate how the smallest of loads in the truck is going to put the combo in 1 ton territory.

The 14,000# GVWR does that easily, even with faker GM and Ford 250/2500 with GVWR over 10,000# just a one ton with a 3/4 ton sticker.
When we were looking at a newer truck with what we carry even with a 4,200# payload I would be within less than 200# of max, with a 2,800# pin weight.

Many underestimate the other stuff, the people, stuff, and hitch.

The 3,200# estimated pin, with four passengers, hitch and some firewood and tools, could easily put the OP at 4,000#.

We chose to go with DRW because we wanted enough payload for a larger 5er.

[markcee]

Originally Posted by Memark

I have a 2021 Cougar 368MBI seems like this more complicated than I thought t would be

It can be a lot to absorb/consider.

'Payload Capacity' = Curb weight of truck subtracted from its GVWR (maximum the manufacturer has determined it can weigh). Example: truck has a GVWR of 10,000 lbs and weighs 6500 lbs. Available payload capacity for that specific truck is 3500 lbs. Manufacturers determine a vehicle's payload capacity prior to it leaving the factory.

As mentioned, you need to figure about 3200 lbs just for pin weight for your 368MBI, to that figure add the weight of everyone that will be in the truck, 150 lbs for the hitch and the weight of anything else you carry in the cab or bed.

Added all together, this grand total will identify the amount of payload capacity the truck will need to have in order for it haul the trailer, gear and people around without being overloaded.

Armed with your grand total, start opening driver's side doors on the trucks you see at the lot and look for the attached 'Tire & Loading Information' sticker on the door pillar. The sticker (among other things) will indicate the cargo carrying (payload) capacity of that specific truck.
If this figure does not meet or exceed the total you've calculated, you will be 'overloaded' as you've exceeded the truck's payload capacity and as a result it's GVWR.

[Max23]

Best advice can give is "please" listen to these guys. I got sucked into the "towing capacity" and found out the hard way my truck wasn't man enough. Had to go buy a new truck. Get the right one now since your already looking. Don't underestimate that payload and rear axle capacity. They make the difference!

[Badbart56]

Sounds like you need a dually. Better to have more truck than less. By the time I had our Fuzion 405 loaded it scaled around 18,500. And if money's not an issue go with a diesel. That extra 500+ ft/lbs of torque over the gas engines makes a BIG difference.

[TXiceman]

The sticker(s) on the truck door jamb will provide a payload capacity and a rear axle GAWR. These are the two numbers that are the most important for your considerations.

First the specs list that trailer as 13,980 lb. for GVWR. Figure that you loaded in weight will be about 20 to 22% of that or 3,075 lb. This means that you can potentially have a 3,075 lb. weight in the bed of the truck. Add to that the weight of the hitch, anywhere from 100# to 300#, the weight of any cargo in the bed (firewood etc.) and passengers beyond the theoretical 150# driver.
so, add 3,075 plus 300# plus another 300# you are 3,697# into your payload. Also check that you are not overloading the rear axle. For this you will need the true axle weight on the truck to add the payload to and see if you are under the GAWR. Most of the load from the trailer goes on the rear axle. Passengers will contribute some to the front axle, but not a lot.

It appears that you will need a truck that can handle a payload or close to 4000#.

When we were full time with our 19,000# 5er, our loaded pin weight was almost 4200# andwe had a 1-ton DRW F350 as we had an added 30-gallon auxiliary fuel tank and a 300# air ride hitch. We were under on the rear axle by 500#.

Have fun shopping, do your own homework and you can tell when the sales person is lying...his or her lips will move.

Ken

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by TXiceman

The sticker(s) on the truck door jamb will provide a payload capacity and a rear axle GAWR. These are the two numbers that are the most important for your considerations.

First the specs list that trailer as 13,980 lb. for GVWR. Figure that you loaded in weight will be about 20 to 22% of that or 3,075 lb. This means that you can potentially have a 3,075 lb. weight in the bed of the truck. Add to that the weight of the hitch, anywhere from 100# to 300#, the weight of any cargo in the bed (firewood etc.) and passengers beyond the theoretical 150# driver.
so, add 3,075 plus 300# plus another 300# you are 3,697# into your payload. Also check that you are not overloading the rear axle. For this you will need the true axle weight on the truck to add the payload to and see if you are under the GAWR. Most of the load from the trailer goes on the rear axle. Passengers will contribute some to the front axle, but not a lot.

It appears that you will need a truck that can handle a payload or close to 4000#.

When we were full time with our 19,000# 5er, our loaded pin weight was almost 4200# andwe had a 1-ton DRW F350 as we had an added 30-gallon auxiliary fuel tank and a 300# air ride hitch. We were under on the rear axle by 500#.

Have fun shopping, do your own homework and you can tell when the sales person is lying...his or her lips will move.

Ken

The 1st thing out of the rv or truck salespersons lips moving will be "Oh yea! Your truck has a tow capacity of XXXXXlbs & that rv dry is ONLY XXXXlb, you'll be good to tow anything on our lot!", all from the lips of someone that's likely never spent a single night in any rv & has never towed one so much as around the block. They have but 1 agenda, sell you whatever they can.
Congratulations, you deserve a big ole' attaboy for asking people that don't have a horse in the race about actual useable weights BEFORE purchasing something that isn't capable of handling what you plan & regret it 5 minutes later.

[wiredgeorge]

This thread has been played out over and over. Tow Capacity? Ever ask how the truck manufacturer comes up with that number? Specially equipped model that you will never see for sale and used to pull a weighted flat bed on a closed course. TOW CAPACITY IS THE SINGLE MOST MISLEADING STAT that the OEM pukes out. Look at those GM commercials where they have their HD Duramax (single rear wheel) dragging a HUGE 5th wheel up a steep grade. They never mention payload which I understand has improved in the past couple years but I would hazard a guess that the HD Duramax is over payload. Is the engine capable. Sure. Is the chassis? Hmmmmmm