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Old 04-19-2019, 12:18 PM   #1
Bechard
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Water pump runs every 30 seconds for 5 seconds?

Just dewinterized my Bullet Crossfire 2200BHS today now that we're past the freezing weather in southern Ontario. Everything checked out, and while flushing out the winter antifreeze in with a few fresh water tanks of water, I noticed the pump started was running every 30 seconds for about 5 seconds.

I couldn't find any sign of water leaking anywhere, and no drips under the trailer, and around the pump, water heater, kitchen, and bathroom was bone dry. The pump sounded almost like it was purging air while it was running.

Pump worked fine, and originally I thought maybe the water heater was purging air, but after it was full and no more air in the lines, the pump was still going at this interval.

Is this normal or is there something I can check?

Once the fresh tank was flushed, I turned the pump off and hooked up city water (with regulator as always), and still no sign of leaks.
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Old 04-19-2019, 12:32 PM   #2
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Yeah, that usually means a leak or open valve somewhere -- but you knew that.

If you turn on the pump while hooked up to city water does it keep cycling like that?
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Old 04-19-2019, 12:55 PM   #3
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When you winterized, you were sure to leave antifreeze in the pump?

We don’t winterize out here, but it could be a failed diaphragm in the pump head.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:22 PM   #4
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Is the pump able to pressurize (and keep pressure to) the system for the 25 seconds it's not cycling on it's own? If so, look closer for an open valve or leak. Otherwise, it's the DC water pump failing and you may need a replacement.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:39 PM   #5
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The one thing I missed last year was the outdoor shower. it leaked down the back, and I didn't see it right away.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:50 PM   #6
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Sounds like you have a pretty good leak somewhere for the pump to run that often. That size of a leak would be noticeable. Perhaps it is leaking backward past the pump?
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:22 PM   #7
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If you have some form of winterize valve make sure it is in the (Winterize) off position. May not be totally off and pulling in air, City water inlet back flow valve sealing
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Old 04-19-2019, 07:46 PM   #8
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There is a "one way valve" in the water pump head. That valve can fail allowing the pump to build pressure, shut off, then "leak back through the diaphragm" (which is what chuckster was saying). It's essentially a "closed system leak" and you won't have any dripping anywhere. It's a internal leak and once the pressure drops, the pump cycles to rebuild pressure in the system and the "backflow loss starts all over again.

So, you might want to look at your water pump. Sometimes just cleaning the diaphragm will work, sometimes it's a new pump head or new pump. I'd start with taking the pump apart and cleaning things up well.
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveinaz View Post
Yeah, that usually means a leak or open valve somewhere -- but you knew that.

If you turn on the pump while hooked up to city water does it keep cycling like that?
I'll have to try that tomorrow when it's not raining.
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
When you winterized, you were sure to leave antifreeze in the pump?

We don’t winterize out here, but it could be a failed diaphragm in the pump head.
I did leave antifreeze in the pump, it was full of antifreeze over the winter.
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:23 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by PARAPTOR View Post
If you have some form of winterize valve make sure it is in the (Winterize) off position. May not be totally off and pulling in air, City water inlet back flow valve sealing
I bought a winterizing kit, but hadn't attached it yet. I winterized by filling my fresh tank with a few gallons of antifreeze and used the pump to winterize.
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:24 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
Is the pump able to pressurize (and keep pressure to) the system for the 25 seconds it's not cycling on it's own? If so, look closer for an open valve or leak. Otherwise, it's the DC water pump failing and you may need a replacement.
Water is perfectly pressurized when it's not running. No problem there.
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:24 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Wingerdinger View Post
The one thing I missed last year was the outdoor shower. it leaked down the back, and I didn't see it right away.
I checked all end points, no sign of a leak anywhere.
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:25 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Park1911 View Post
Sounds like you have a pretty good leak somewhere for the pump to run that often. That size of a leak would be noticeable. Perhaps it is leaking backward past the pump?
How would I check that? Just sounds like air moving.
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
There is a "one way valve" in the water pump head. That valve can fail allowing the pump to build pressure, shut off, then "leak back through the diaphragm" (which is what chuckster was saying). It's essentially a "closed system leak" and you won't have any dripping anywhere. It's a internal leak and once the pressure drops, the pump cycles to rebuild pressure in the system and the "backflow loss starts all over again.



So, you might want to look at your water pump. Sometimes just cleaning the diaphragm will work, sometimes it's a new pump head or new pump. I'd start with taking the pump apart and cleaning things up well.
Trailer is still in the one year warranty, but the dealership is 45 minutes away. Pretty annoying to be honest.
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Old 04-25-2019, 08:20 AM   #16
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I had a very similar issue last year. I replaced the pump and everything was fine. It was most likely an issue with the diaphragm.
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Old 04-25-2019, 08:38 AM   #17
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Did you shut off the fill valve to the water tank? Mine does about the same thing if I leave the valve open.
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Old 04-25-2019, 09:16 AM   #18
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I don't think I have a fill valve to shut off. I have the city water next to the fresh water port, and no switches or valves.
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:37 AM   #19
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Winterizing.

If you winterize your Rv/tt. I would suggest removing ALL WATER from the system with air pressure. Then you do not need a winterizing fluid. This is safer on all components. Drain all lines with the low area drains and blow out all remaining water do not exceed about 40psi in the system. Drain the fresh water tank and heater and make sure your black and gray water tanks are empty. You can get a screw on connector for the city water connector to connect to air compressor.
Just another suggestion.
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadmanRick View Post
If you winterize your Rv/tt. I would suggest removing ALL WATER from the system with air pressure. Then you do not need a winterizing fluid. This is safer on all components. Drain all lines with the low area drains and blow out all remaining water do not exceed about 40psi in the system. Drain the fresh water tank and heater and make sure your black and gray water tanks are empty. You can get a screw on connector for the city water connector to connect to air compressor.
Just another suggestion.
Blowing and draining fresh water lines may work for those who are in more southerly climates where winters are mild. But around here in Michigan and southern Ontario, old man winter packs a good punch of sub zero temps and "freeze and thaw" cycles for much of the season.

An air compressor is not guaranteed to remove all the water in the "pipes" and fixtures. As cheap as these RVs are made, any residual water near a termination point or faucet valve could cause problems come spring. I know this as I blow my in-ground irrigation system out every fall and usually end up with at least 1 polyethylene pipe leak or sprinkler head failure when water is turned back on.

The pink stuff is very cost effective and relatively easy to use. I think it's the best defense for trailers that hibernate in these northern climates.
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