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Old 06-10-2017, 05:29 PM   #1
BuxCamper
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Problem with trailer brakes

On our second or third trip I noticed the camper shoving us when braking. My first generation Prodigy is saying overload. I found a missing grommet on the right rear axle where the brake wire exits and it looked like the insulation was worn through. I taped it up and the dealer added some heavy duty caulk to keep things from moving around.

That hasn't fixed the problem. The Prodigy is still going into overload and dropping the brakes. It seems to get worse if I use the brakes several times in a row.

Looking for ideas on troubleshooting. This model of Prodigy is supposed to be good to three axles and never have me any trouble with my dual axle hybrid.

I'm thinking of cutting the brake feed from the left rear to the right rear and isolate that side. Three brakes are better than none. (What kind of weather TIGHT connector would I use to splice it back together?)

I'm hoping I don't have to pull hubs to check magnets. I do have a multi-meter with me.

The dealer is not close to home so if like to just get this sorted out myself.

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Old 06-10-2017, 06:36 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Problem with trailer brakes

I wouldn't start cutting wires. Without Knowing for sure which wheel is causing the issue you could be removing a "good" brake.

We use these:
http://www.usledsupply.com/shop/wate...connector.html
Not those exact ones but similar, filled with dielectric grease. I'm thinking without an amp gauge, your not going to isolate the problem, so if you can get a bunch of those style connectors you could eliminate 1 wheel at a time and reconnect. 2 per wheel means 8 total. You will need to get 3 wire connectors for one side, as the brake lead comes out of the underbelly usually on the road side.

Just noticed I sort of contradicted myself. Long day at work...yeah that's the reason!
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Old 06-10-2017, 07:00 PM   #3
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When I did my brake job last year I used waterproof heat activated regular style butt connectors from auto parts store and used heat shrink over them. So far so good.
I would have used Chucks if I knew of them.
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Old 06-10-2017, 07:43 PM   #4
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Sounds like the same problem I had a couple years back, of course it started when I had to drive 1200 km through the mountains. I isolated the rear axle but it was still overloading. Turned out to need all new magnets and it's been great since!

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Old 06-11-2017, 07:03 AM   #5
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I just measured the resistance at the Bargman and it's under 2 ohms. What should I be seeing? I may have my wife watch the meter while I wiggle wires underneath.

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Old 06-11-2017, 08:40 AM   #6
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I just measured the resistance at the Bargman and it's under 2 ohms. What should I be seeing? I may have my wife watch the meter while I wiggle wires underneath.

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Measured a bit better. Resistance looks correct for 4 brakes.

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Old 06-11-2017, 10:59 AM   #7
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I know this may seem obvious, but are you sure your controller is not the problem? A rig that new shouldn't be having brake issues like this.
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Old 06-11-2017, 11:56 AM   #8
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I don't know what the resistance should be as we measure amp draw. Average is 12-14 with brakes applied.
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Old 06-11-2017, 01:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbecky View Post
I know this may seem obvious, but are you sure your controller is not the problem? A rig that new shouldn't be having brake issues like this.
After I got home from my weekend trip I drove around the neighborhood playing with the controller with different boost settings, higher set points and the manual override. The manual override might trip out the first time but the second time it would be fine. I was delivering 7+ volts according to the prodigy and all was fine. So I am wondering if it is the controller.

This is even happens when I'm moving at very slow rates so it can't be jiggling wires too much. When I'm stopped I can hold a constant voltage. That does point to a magnet issue.

Anybody in the Bucks County Pennsylvania area that can loan me a Prodigy (original and/or newer generations) so I can test this? Or let me bring you mine?

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Old 06-11-2017, 01:08 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
I don't know what the resistance should be as we measure amp draw. Average is 12-14 with brakes applied.
I should have multi quoted this.

Where would you place an ammeter to measure the current?

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Old 06-11-2017, 01:15 PM   #11
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Mark: I had a problem last year where my brakes were not engaging evenly. At the time I was using the Prodigy Brake Controller. It was showing the overload display at times. Long story short, it was the controller. The RV dealer where I purchased the controller, changed it out with the Prodigy P2 and it fixed the problem. Hope this helps!
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Old 06-11-2017, 01:46 PM   #12
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If you feel comfortable doing it, pull a couple of hubs and physically look at your brake assembly's, if not get a handy friend, or stand there while your dealer does it. Your unit is fairly new and it's possible the brakes were overcooked by whoever towed it from the mid west. Nothing beats a straight on look at the brake pads and magnets. I had to replace all of my brake assembly's on my 2016 fz371 as they were completely worn out by whoever brought it out west from the factory. Also, keystone did a horrible job of running the wires to the axle and they had rubbed on the tire all through my 300 mile trip home.
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Old 06-11-2017, 02:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuxCamper View Post
I should have multi quoted this.

Where would you place an ammeter to measure the current?

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We normally use the break away. One side is hot from battery, clamp on the otherside (out to brakes) and pull the pin.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 06-11-2017, 03:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
We normally use the break away. One side is hot from battery, clamp on the otherside (out to brakes) and pull the pin.
Thank you! I'll try to do that this evening.

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Old 06-11-2017, 04:26 PM   #15
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Thank you! I'll try to do that this evening.

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Dang! My meters only go up to 10 amps. I have an old Amprobe clamp on but that only does AC.

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Old 06-13-2017, 06:54 PM   #16
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I replaced the cross feed wire on the rear axle. The Prodigy now indicates power to the brakes when I hit the TV's brake or the manual override while stopped. Previously i would often get 0.0 when standing still.

I won't be able to road test until this weekend.
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Old 06-13-2017, 07:00 PM   #17
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Prodigy is a proportional braking controller. When your sitting still, 0.0 is normal.
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Old 07-02-2017, 06:31 AM   #18
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Apologies for letting this drop. Been busy with other things the past couple of weeks.

Long story short, finally took camper out on a short trip. Brakes still acting up. From some really short stops (rolled a foot and applied brakes) I'm starting to think it's in a hub. I plan to jack up each wheel, spin it, have some one apply the brakes and see if overload occurs.

From everything I've found on the Web it could be in the hub, wiring or controller. I unfortunately don't have a clamp on meter that can measure DC current.

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Old 07-02-2017, 08:32 AM   #19
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http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digit...&blockType=G2#
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:31 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Excellent! I still have a Sears near me. I have to run an errand shortly. I may stop by.

With the begrudging help of my son I jacked up each wheel, spun it and had him hit the manual override. Both right side wheels tripped an overload. Left side was fine. Now do I want to bring it some place or pull hubs myself?

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