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Old 08-31-2014, 07:06 AM   #21
mazboy123
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go back

call and set up another appt. talk to the manager and schedule your review.

but you also have websites like this one too.
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:41 AM   #22
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EMCS retired has already indicated that the dealership has been "given his punch list" and he has an appointment already scheduled to "return next week with our trade BEFORE we sign the papers." It's appropriate for him to let the dealership perform the maintenance and re-inspect the RV before signing the sales documents. Talking to the manager and scheduling a review apparently have already been done. Next week will "tell the tale" as to whether the dealership does as he expects.

As for the door that was "moved to another unit," it seems we're all for it if it benefits us, but object if it doesn't. If we are buying a model with a damaged door, we "expect" the dealership to "take one from that RV" so ours is complete, but when we're looking at the "donor RV" as the one we're buying, we "get upset" that the dealership would "steal from us" to fix an "unknown RV." At this point, let's expect that the dealership has a replacement door in the dealership's inventory or can get one by next week. Otherwise, EMCS retired has a decision to make.

Having access to "websites like this one" give members the opportunity to "voice their experiences" but do little to effect an "unknown dealership" or even "Keystone management teams" to aspire to better service. It's lofty to think we can affect "Keystone mentality" by posting here, but in reality, to my knowledge, Keystone (in any level of employment) has never responded to any post on this forum. I wouldn't expect EMCS retired's reports of his experiences to change that any more than I'd expect Keystone to "jump onboard the customer service train" because of a post on this website.

Check the disclaimer at the bottom of every webpage, it will explain the "association" (or lack of association) between Keystone and the Keystone forum.
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Old 06-03-2018, 10:20 AM   #23
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Would love to use the PDI, but I can't seem to locate it on the forum. Any chance you could post a link or directions to finding it? Thanks
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Old 06-03-2018, 10:27 AM   #24
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Would love to use the PDI, but I can't seem to locate it on the forum. Any chance you could post a link or directions to finding it? Thanks

You NEED to use the PDI. If not the single most important item that needs to be done before the sale, it is close. Here's a link:

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ead.php?t=5129
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Old 09-23-2018, 06:29 PM   #25
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Just bought a 5th wheel used and was very surprised to have some dealers showing dirty trailers and charging a buyer $1000 to clean and check that things worked as they should. One salesmen made the comment " cleaning them would be like putting lipstick on a pig" I was looking at units more than a year or two old but come on why have a dirty trailer on the lot unless it just came in or it's a backrow as is special. Instead I used that $1000 too buy more trailer from a private owner who had enough pride in what he was selling that it was clean and he was more than willing to show that things worked and how. I did my own inspection the same as you should even buying from a dealer including checking the condition of the roof
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Old 09-23-2018, 07:30 PM   #26
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Best wishes on your purchase. Some dealers and salespeople make me see red!
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Old 09-24-2018, 06:27 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by hornet28 View Post
Just bought a 5th wheel used and was very surprised to have some dealers showing dirty trailers and charging a buyer $1000 to clean and check that things worked as they should. One salesmen made the comment " cleaning them would be like putting lipstick on a pig" I was looking at units more than a year or two old but come on why have a dirty trailer on the lot unless it just came in or it's a backrow as is special. Instead I used that $1000 too buy more trailer from a private owner who had enough pride in what he was selling that it was clean and he was more than willing to show that things worked and how. I did my own inspection the same as you should even buying from a dealer including checking the condition of the roof
For me personally I'd rather be presented with an untouched trade in (whether it's an rv, car, boat, whatever) than the prettied up version for several reasons.
1. I'd like to know if the unit is/was rodent infested vs smelling Lysol and air freshener.
2. I'd rather open a door, or hood, battery box and see dirt, oil or corrosion and know that maintenance has been ignored rather see how pretty it looks hiding the facts.
3. Cost - paying the dealer is more costly in that labor rates for cleaning are high and covering up problems looming after purchase will bite and sting.
4. Negotiating - I have personally been more successful at negotiating a lower cost by listing defects that are obvious vs ones hidden by "lipstick".

This methodology works for me and doesn't mean it will for you. I am fortunate enough to have enough knowledge and experience to make a case by listing the defaults and what the remedies will require and the cost of same. It's my opinion that there are renters and there are homeowners. If you're a renter you call a number when the toilet leaks, a homeowner tries to fix it themselves. In my opinion folks who by Rv's, cars, or boats should by new if they are unfamiliar with the workings (much like the renters previously mentioned). Purchase new and when the warranty expires trade it in and by another new one and do nothing in between as far as maintenance is concerned as it will not be cost effective.
If you are the homeowner type that your purchase decision will be more flexible and successful if doing repairs are more your forte. YMMV
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Old 09-24-2018, 08:13 AM   #28
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IMHO ask up front if a dealer is charging the buyer for the PDI on either new or used rvs, if so go somewhere/anywhere else to purchase.
On the last 2 I've bought I'm the one that should've been paid for the PDI it that was the case, the folks knew absolutely nothing about them, I was teaching them how appliances & other equipment operated.
If they were charging $1000 to clean up a trade before you drove off with it, I'd of almost nicely told them where they could shove it.
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Old 09-24-2018, 09:46 AM   #29
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For me personally I'd rather be presented with an untouched trade in (whether it's an rv, car, boat, whatever) than the prettied up version for several reasons.
1. I'd like to know if the unit is/was rodent infested vs smelling Lysol and air freshener.
2. I'd rather open a door, or hood, battery box and see dirt, oil or corrosion and know that maintenance has been ignored rather see how pretty it looks hiding the facts.
3. Cost - paying the dealer is more costly in that labor rates for cleaning are high and covering up problems looming after purchase will bite and sting.
4. Negotiating - I have personally been more successful at negotiating a lower cost by listing defects that are obvious vs ones hidden by "lipstick".

This methodology works for me and doesn't mean it will for you. I am fortunate enough to have enough knowledge and experience to make a case by listing the defaults and what the remedies will require and the cost of same. It's my opinion that there are renters and there are homeowners. If you're a renter you call a number when the toilet leaks, a homeowner tries to fix it themselves. In my opinion folks who by Rv's, cars, or boats should by new if they are unfamiliar with the workings (much like the renters previously mentioned). Purchase new and when the warranty expires trade it in and by another new one and do nothing in between as far as maintenance is concerned as it will not be cost effective.
If you are the homeowner type that your purchase decision will be more flexible and successful if doing repairs are more your forte. YMMV

I agree with your first paragraph; the 2nd one, not so much.

I am a homeowner; bought my first one before I turned 21 and have owned at least one since; had 4 until 3 years ago now have 2 working on one I hope in the somewhere near future. I can wrench on cars, boats and bikes as well as do most anything that building a house requires. I have the knowledge and ability to repair most anything I come across, but, I DO NOT buy vehicles, boats or RVs used. I've never had success with buying used anything so stopped when I was about 25. I will say that I have bought older vehicles to rebuild as toys; CJ7, Ramcharger, Bronco etc.

Buying used works for some folks and they don't mind the inconveniences of it failing then fixing it. I do not have the patience for it because it always happens at the most inopportune moment and causes problems for not only me but those with me; ie; getting stranded with a failed fuel pump on a Sunday returning from the mountains with friends then laying in the parking lot of a Ford dealer soaked with gas while replacing it (the lead salesman there was my friend and went with the parts guy to set one out for me when I finally made it to the dealership). I had made the mistake of keeping that vehicle until it had over 90k - not any more. The same reason I will not keep tires on a vehicle past 40-50k - don't want the hassle of a failed tire.

Just saying that not ALL folks that buy new vs buying used are "renters" that are unfamiliar with the "workings" of whatever. Nor do those like me have to "call a number" to have someone else fix it. My belief is just don't have the issue in the first place, or don't buy something just to wait to see what breaks. I know there are those on both sides of this fence and that is as it should be. JMO
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Old 09-24-2018, 10:14 AM   #30
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I've said this a hundred times, if you're not physically able, have NO mechanical abilities, don't own tools or don't mind the dealerships having your rv on their lot far more than you do, DON'T BUY A RV, there WILL ALWAYS be something to fix.
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Old 09-24-2018, 10:35 AM   #31
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I agree with your first paragraph; the 2nd one, not so much.

I am a homeowner; bought my first one before I turned 21 and have owned at least one since; had 4 until 3 years ago now have 2 working on one I hope in the somewhere near future. I can wrench on cars, boats and bikes as well as do most anything that building a house requires. I have the knowledge and ability to repair most anything I come across, but, I DO NOT buy vehicles, boats or RVs used. I've never had success with buying used anything so stopped when I was about 25. I will say that I have bought older vehicles to rebuild as toys; CJ7, Ramcharger, Bronco etc.

Buying used works for some folks and they don't mind the inconveniences of it failing then fixing it. I do not have the patience for it because it always happens at the most inopportune moment and causes problems for not only me but those with me; ie; getting stranded with a failed fuel pump on a Sunday returning from the mountains with friends then laying in the parking lot of a Ford dealer soaked with gas while replacing it (the lead salesman there was my friend and went with the parts guy to set one out for me when I finally made it to the dealership). I had made the mistake of keeping that vehicle until it had over 90k - not any more. The same reason I will not keep tires on a vehicle past 40-50k - don't want the hassle of a failed tire.

Just saying that not ALL folks that buy new vs buying used are "renters" that are unfamiliar with the "workings" of whatever. Nor do those like me have to "call a number" to have someone else fix it. My belief is just don't have the issue in the first place, or don't buy something just to wait to see what breaks. I know there are those on both sides of this fence and that is as it should be. JMO
I think maybe you didn't understand, or I didn't make it clear enough but if you reread the last sentence I said the "homeowner type" has more options in buying new or used. I've done plenty of both in buying new and used and had success and failure in both. What I'm trying to convey is that if you have no mechanical aptitude, are unable or unwilling to pay someone else to do it for you, then perhaps buying used without a warranty or with a limited warranty either in scope or term may not be a good decision.
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Old 09-24-2018, 11:09 AM   #32
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I still think a dealer should be cleaning them up and making sure things work unless it's an as is deal. I'm 74 and I can't begin to count how many cars and trucks I've had but I've only bought three new. As far as buying from a dealer maybe a dozen including the new ones were bought from a dealer. if you don't know how to look past the "Lipstick" you might have a problem. I learned to do that years ago. If you don't mind taking the hit as soon as it's driven/pulled off the lot fine I don't care to do that. The last truck, 02 Chevy HD, I bought new I kept for 11 years only got rid of it because I wanted to go to a diesel, the one I have now
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Old 09-19-2020, 04:33 PM   #33
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Like TexasTraveler, I think I should have been paid for the PDI. We didn’t buy our 5er at CW, but at another dealer. When it came time for the walk, It was obvious the guy knew nothing about campers. He was showing us, this is the stove and refrigerator is here. This is the vent fan and you turn it on with this switch. DUH!
He couldn’t turn on the TV or radio, but”they work”.
When we were walking around the outside, he showed us the central station where the water and electric hooks up. This little plug at the bottom, you can unscrew it if it gets flooded, to let the water drain.
He showed us where to hook up the black tank drain, then began to walk down the length of the trailer saying the grey tank drain should be here somewhere.
We wasn’t sure whether to feel sorry or laugh at him.
The PDI only lasted for about 15 minutes. I had to ask about hooking and unhooking to the truck. It’s my first 5er.
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Old 10-30-2020, 11:55 AM   #34
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Yup, pre inspection is a must here's half of what we didn't find

Residue everywhere. Only hand laying flat space between tires & floor. Roof leaks when new. Bearing seals blown causing brakes to grab. Defective brake drum (keystone fitted only this 1 item), sail switch bad, floor cracked, doors stick closed need body slams to open, shower doors come off in travel, ceiling vent leaks, shower skylite leaks, cracks & scratches of all skylights, all window seals leak, tv not tied down so it swings in travel, ceiling vents fall down, spare tire blew up on mounting rack, spring shackles broken, lug nuts loose 1 week after delivery, stabilizer arm bent, belly pan sagging 10", tank drain handles loose & came off, water hammer on closing any valve, slide screeches, slide binding, slide seals leak, under seat drawer disintegrated, amost all trim inside has pulled loose, screen door closures broken, sharp corners on bedroom closets, furnace ducts full of wood chips, bathroom sliding door keeper broken, shower not screwed down, table flanges all loose, antenna mount loose & broken, missing calk around all doors & windows, front cap lighting strips loose, bad tires,. Had to add mor/ryde shackle system, suspension system risers to get 3" tire to floor clearance, replace defective spare tire, clean & lube all window tracks, clean & lube all slider parts, replace wheel bearing seals, replace all 4 bad tires after 3,000 miles
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Old 10-30-2020, 12:29 PM   #35
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Residue everywhere. Only hand laying flat space between tires & floor. Roof leaks when new. Bearing seals blown causing brakes to grab. Defective brake drum (keystone fitted only this 1 item), sail switch bad, floor cracked, doors stick closed need body slams to open, shower doors come off in travel, ceiling vent leaks, shower skylite leaks, cracks & scratches of all skylights, all window seals leak, tv not tied down so it swings in travel, ceiling vents fall down, spare tire blew up on mounting rack, spring shackles broken, lug nuts loose 1 week after delivery, stabilizer arm bent, belly pan sagging 10", tank drain handles loose & came off, water hammer on closing any valve, slide screeches, slide binding, slide seals leak, under seat drawer disintegrated, amost all trim inside has pulled loose, screen door closures broken, sharp corners on bedroom closets, furnace ducts full of wood chips, bathroom sliding door keeper broken, shower not screwed down, table flanges all loose, antenna mount loose & broken, missing calk around all doors & windows, front cap lighting strips loose, bad tires,. Had to add mor/ryde shackle system, suspension system risers to get 3" tire to floor clearance, replace defective spare tire, clean & lube all window tracks, clean & lube all slider parts, replace wheel bearing seals, replace all 4 bad tires after 3,000 miles

This thread was sort of ancient when someone popped in a month ago. Why are you posting this stuff? Is this your trailer I am guessing and since there is no context for this long list of issues, why list them? Just venting a little or is there some other point? Just curious.
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