Only a single bypass valve?

[Leatherman]

My new 24RKPR seems to only have a single bypass valve on the incoming cold water side. My old trailer had two one on both sides. It seems as though their is only a single one on the in (cold) water. It seems to me that there should be a hot water one on the out as well to prevent the antifreeze from going into the tank via the hot water line.

Am I missing something? Is there a valve to prevent antifreeze from flowing back into the water tank via the hot water line?

Sorry but the pictures get twisted for some reason. They need to be rotated to the right

[earlzach]

If you look closer at the hot water exit point just before the right angle fitting you will notice a brass "Check Valve" or "One way valve". This keeps you from needing more valves.
The valve you have is not an off or on but a line selection. Ie.. 2 position. One goes into the hot water heater, the other way goes up the bypass line and into the out line from the heater. Not into the heater.

Its all good. Just switch the valve.

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by Leatherman

My new 24RKPR seems to only have a single bypass valve on the incoming cold water side. My old trailer had two one on both sides. It seems as though their is only a single one on the in (cold) water. It seems to me that there should be a hot water one on the out as well to prevent the antifreeze from going into the tank via the hot water line.

Am I missing something? Is there a valve to prevent antifreeze from flowing back into the water tank via the hot water line?

Sorry but the pictures get twisted for some reason. They need to be rotated to the right

The short answer is that there is one manual valve and one check valve. The check valve helps isolate the tank from the plumbing when you flip the other one. The check valve is the brass fitting between the tank and the 90 degree flare-it where the red and blue pex comes into a T.

There are several previous threads with detailed diagrams and descriptions about the different hot water heater bypass systems. We've discussed and explained this many times over since the start of this forum. I encourage you to use the search function and read them to gain an in depth understanding.

[Voyager]

My trailer also has a single valve, my previous trailer had two but I haven’t used anti freeze for a few years other than a bit in the sink traps and toilet, I use air to blow out all the lines and find it’s fast and easier to dewinterize when the time comes

[sourdough]

I have the one valve, which I like the best.

[LarrySharon]

My Hideout only has a single as well.

[rhagfo]

Yes, single valve on our 2005 Copper Canyon. Our hot water started humming when turned on neighbor had the same issue, both turned out to be failed check valves. Easy repair $7.99 at local Marine & RV store for the valve and about 15 minutes to shut off water drain just enough to replace the valve. If you do this remember to turn off the 120 cold and/or gas.

[Javi]

The manufacturers didn't go to a single valve for your convenience, they went to a single valve because it saved them money.

It isn't better, it is just an opportunity for another part to fail. Takes about 20 minutes and a few dollars to fix it so that it never fails.



Javi

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by Javi

The manufacturers didn't go to a single valve for your convenience, they went to a single valve because it saved them money.

It isn't better, it is just an opportunity for another part to fail. Takes about 20 minutes and a few dollars to fix it so that it never fails.



Javi

I see it as both, simpler quicker to bypass, and a cost savings during build. I do understand they with a three valve system you could remove the water heater without totally shutting off the water.

[shiggs68]

Your single valve is actually a two way like a “Y”. In the normal position, the cold water is directed to the hot water tank, in the bypass position, the water is directed to the bypass line and a check valve on the hot tank output blocks water from entering the tank. There is nothing wrong with that type system.


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[Javi]

Originally Posted by shiggs68

Your single valve is actually a two way like a “Y”. In the normal position, the cold water is directed to the hot water tank, in the bypass position, the water is directed to the bypass line and a check valve on the hot tank output blocks water from entering the tank. There is nothing wrong with that type system.


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Nothing wrong with the design except that it relies on a anti-backflow valve that is notorious for leaking... There was nothing wrong with the three valve system (used for many years) except the cost to the manufacturer.

I've chosen to "FIX" mine and returned it to a three valve system shortly after bringing it home from the dealer... In fact, I've "FIXED" many things about the plumbing of my trailer to make it more user friendly...

[shiggs68]

Originally Posted by Javi

Nothing wrong with the design except that it relies on a anti-backflow valve that is notorious for leaking... There was nothing wrong with the three valve system (used for many years) except the cost to the manufacturer.

I've chosen to "FIX" mine and returned it to a three valve system shortly after bringing it home from the dealer... In fact, I've "FIXED" many things about the plumbing of my trailer to make it more user friendly...

I understand. However, that specific check valve failure is usually caused by never flushing the water heater. Simply periodic maintenance goes a long way to keep things working and most people have no clue.


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[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by shiggs68

I understand. However, that specific check valve failure is usually caused by never flushing the water heater. Simply periodic maintenance goes a long way to keep things working and most people have no clue.

Great information, do you have any data to support flushing the water heater as a means to prevent check valve failure? As long as I've been around RV's, this is the first time I've heard about that. Where does that step in "preventative maintenance" come from ???? I'd like to dig deeper into that information !!!

[shiggs68]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Great information, do you have any data to support flushing the water heater as a means to prevent check valve failure? As long as I've been around RV's, this is the first time I've heard about that. Where does that step in "preventative maintenance" come from ???? I'd like to dig deeper into that information !!!

Both the Atwood and Suburban water heater Service Manuals and I believe the User manuals indicate flushing at least once a year. Some people go to the extreme of draining after every trip.


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[JRTJH]

Both water heater brands do advocate flushing the water heater "at least annually", to remove sludge, bad taste and odor. The one way valve, mounted on the water heater hot water outlet, however, is not a part of the water heater. It's a part of the winterization bypass kit and usually isn't even provided by the water heater company. That's why I asked if you have any data on the one way valve. I'd like to find some performance data, maintenance data or reliability data on that device and, so far, I've not been able to find anything except a part number on the actual valve, no "owner's manual" or "installation/maintenance instructions" at all. I thought, maybe, that you had found that "elusive information".....

[Leatherman]

thanks to all that replied. I got it winterized just fine with the single valve in the system. I tested it too prior to running the AF through the system. I removed the drain plug from the WH and there was no leakage when I had the valve in bypass mode. All good....

Thanks guys

[shiggs68]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Both water heater brands do advocate flushing the water heater "at least annually", to remove sludge, bad taste and odor. The one way valve, mounted on the water heater hot water outlet, however, is not a part of the water heater. It's a part of the winterization bypass kit and usually isn't even provided by the water heater company. That's why I asked if you have any data on the one way valve. I'd like to find some performance data, maintenance data or reliability data on that device and, so far, I've not been able to find anything except a part number on the actual valve, no "owner's manual" or "installation/maintenance instructions" at all. I thought, maybe, that you had found that "elusive information".....

The best I could suggest is to contact the check valve manufacture. They should have your data available from there internal quality testing processes.


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[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by shiggs68

The best I could suggest is to contact the check valve manufacture. They should have your data available from there internal quality testing processes.

I have, the response: Made in china to exacting standards, no maintenance required and should be troublefree. "Yeah, right...."