Backup Lights (24RKPR)

[Leatherman]

I have looked at the threads that address backup lights but none appear to answer the question I have.

My trailer has what appears to be exposed wiring that would allow me to access the wiring for my rear tail lights (see the pictures below).

My questions is if anyone has added two LED lights to that existing wiring and not had a problem. I know I need to determine which color wire is for what purpose (running, brake and tail lights) but that aside, is there enough power for two generic LED lights.

My goal is to attach magnets to the bottom of two LED lights and just connect them when I need to back into a spot at night. It would be a temporary connection and mounting. After I am in the spot I would remove the lights. I would use some type of water proof quick connect for the connections.

The lights are some I purchased from Amazon are here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am hoping I can add these two to the existing wiring instead of having to run wiring from the front to the rear of the trailer.

[mfifield01]

I've been thinking about doing something similar when I arrive late at night. The concern I see with the lights is the extra load on the wiring. I'm not sure of the power (amperage) that the backup wiring could handle. Those would pull roughly 3 amps per light (6 total). Someone might be able to comment on the power of the wiring.

[Leatherman]

Yeah, that is why I was asking. I am not sure of the draw and the ability of the existing wiring to handle the two extra LED lights.

Are you going to try this? I may this weekend.

[mfifield01]

I might now. My DW thinks that I work too much on the TT and other projects (spent last weekend on the wet bolt kit). I might have to hold off for a week or two. I'm actually thinking about putting 4 - 27w floods (very similar to what you linked). I would put two below the rear bumper and two near the front. The two fronts would illuminate the tires, so I could see turn points on the road while backing. For wiring, I would run to the batteries on the trailer with a waterproof switch and thicker wires. The other option, would be a relay to the battery with the reverse wire (from 7 pin harness) as the turn on point. This would still utilize thicker wires.

[mfifield01]

From some quick research, it looks like standard 1157 turn bulbs take about 26 watts for stop/turn signal. You could change those out to 1157 LED bulbs and knock that down to about 4 watts. Then you could splice off of the tail lights and only be about 31 watts total.

[B-O-B'03]

On my trailer the backup wire terminates in the black junction box at the tongue, nothing goes out the the trailer wiring.

I have thought about adding a relay and 4 LED flood lights as mentioned above, 2 at the front and 2 at the rear and running new wire to all.

This just might be the push I need to get started

I think I will also add some kind of switch to disable them.

Thanks,

-Brian

[Still go once]

I have never checked and it sounds like a great idea but is there a wire in that harness for a backup light? I know your 7-pin allows for that but if your camper didn't come with backup lights I would think there wouldn't be a wire. Not sure.

[mfifield01]

I don't think there's a backup wire that extends to the tail lights. From the first post, it sounds like it would just connect to the running lights and be quick disconnected. I would opt to run wires up to the trailer battery. At that point, you could put a relay to the backup wire or just put a switch inline.

[JRTJH]

The black 7 pin umbilical has the yellow wire for backup lights. It terminates at a "dead cap" inside the junction box on your trailer tongue. In order to wire backup lights using that power source all you'd need to do is run a wire from the junction box, under your trailer and wire it into the LED lights you want to install on your bumper.

Alternatively, you can wire a switch, plug in connectors or a variety of wiring solutions at the back of your trailer. Remember, however, that any time you cut the insulation on an existing wire you introduce the potential for corrosion and wiring problems "down the road". If it were me, I'd install a backup light system using the yellow wire solution.

Or, you can do like I did, buy a rechargeable LED floodlight with a magnetic base. Use it anywhere you want while camping and, if you need "backup lights", turn it on, set it on the camper bumper (using the magnetic base) and when you're done, use it somewhere else. "Easy-peasy"...

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by B-O-B'03

On my trailer the backup wire terminates in the black junction box at the tongue, nothing goes out the the trailer wiring.

I have thought about adding a relay and 4 LED flood lights as mentioned above, 2 at the front and 2 at the rear and running new wire to all.

This just might be the push I need to get started

I think I will also add some kind of switch to disable them.

Thanks,

-Brian

X2 to this!
I installed my backup lights through a relay, I get the 12 volts from the 5er battery, needed to run my own wire from the J-box in the pin box to the front storage area. That is where I installed the relay, then a single wire back to the lights and frame ground.
To get from the J-box to the front storage area I used one of the lighting wires as a pull string and pulled in two wires one to replace the lighting wire (same size and color) and new wire to control the relay for the backup lights.

I installed a set of halogen fog lights permanently on the rear bumper.

No need for a switch as they only come on when in reverse.

[SteveC7010]

I used surface mount LED fixtures similar to this:



I ran a 14 gauge wire from the terminal box up in the pin box to the rear of the trailer and up under the skin below each tail light. The lights get their 12vdc from the TV's trailer harness which is completely separate from the TV's regular lighting circuits. It's relay controlled in the truck the same as the S/T/T lights. There's no undue load on the system anywhere since these fixtures pull about 0.26 amps each. That's right, roughly a quarter of an amp per fixture. Two fixtures on the back of the trailer are pulling slightly more than half an amp when lit. I could have used 16 or even 18 gauge wire, but I had the 14 in stock.

This mod is easy to do. The roughest part of the job was routing the wire from the terminal box in the pin box under the skin and into the front basement compartment. After that, it was a breeze to get the wire to the back of the trailer.

[Ken / Claudia]

Another idea that does not answer the posters question but, might help. I did not want to cut into any current trailer wires. I welded a 6 inch bar across the top of the bicycle post mount on the pull out bumper. . Bolted the post to the base in upright position. Mounted 2 swivel lights on it. Ran wires with a switch and fuse to the battery. That way I can turn them on/off went ever I need besides backing. I do use them for backing but, mainly adding light to the area when needed behind the trailer.

[bdaniel]

Here is what I did.

http://www.bobbystuff.com/rv/180/backup-lights

I have since added 7 more. I like a lot of light.

Bobby

[flybouy]

I would suggest tapping into the yellow wire. They way no need to remember or get out for an extra step when reversing. They will serve a purpose in daylight as it lets people behind you know you are headed in their direction.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I would suggest tapping into the yellow wire. They way no need to remember or get out for an extra step when reversing. They will serve a purpose in daylight as it lets people behind you know you are headed in their direction.

Yep, most likely found in the J-box at the back of the pin box and cut very short!

[hornet28]

Run the wire from the junction box and be done with it. Here's my set-up

[mfifield01]

I was at Academy Sport looking for a waterproof switch for this project (once I take it on). I couldn't find anything that specifically stated waterproof. This got me thinking. I already have a 2 battery Blue Sea switch for battery disconnect. I don't use the second stud for a battery (I have 2 - 6v batteries). I can just connect the LEDs and run a decent gauge wire. When I put the switch from battery 1 to 1+2 the power will connect the LEDs. A good waterproof solution.

[hornet28]

For those wondering about the extra load the LEDs add. I'm running two LEDs under the bumper of my truck for bu plus the two on the trailer. Been using similar set up for over 8 yrs without any problems