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Old 11-05-2019, 06:50 PM   #21
Customer1
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Does anyone else have trouble cramming the power cord back into the hole in their trailer. It didn't seem to be as much trouble in the summer when it's hot but yesterday we were packing up to leave the campground and we had to pull the cord back out three or four times before we were able to get it all the way in. I was about ready to tie it to the back bumper with duct tape for the trip home.
Easy fix, cut the cord just outside the door. Purchase a male and female connector. Put the male connector on the short section sticking out of the RV. Put the female connector on the longer section of cord.

Now you can store the long section wherever you want and only need to push the short piece into the cubby.
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Old 11-06-2019, 05:03 AM   #22
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Easy fix, cut the cord just outside the door. Purchase a male and female connector. Put the male connector on the short section sticking out of the RV. Put the female connector on the longer section of cord.

Now you can store the long section wherever you want and only need to push the short piece into the cubby.
I like this, any leads on where to buy the connectors?
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Old 11-06-2019, 05:17 AM   #23
flybouy
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I like this, any leads on where to buy the connectors?
Google 30 amp rv plug.
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Old 11-06-2019, 05:25 PM   #24
Customer1
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I like this, any leads on where to buy the connectors?
Amazon, eBay, RV dealer.
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Old 11-10-2019, 08:43 AM   #25
sonofcy
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Originally Posted by comfun1 View Post
Does anyone else have trouble cramming the power cord back into the hole in their trailer. It didn't seem to be as much trouble in the summer when it's hot but yesterday we were packing up to leave the campground and we had to pull the cord back out three or four times before we were able to get it all the way in. I was about ready to tie it to the back bumper with duct tape for the trip home.
My old TT had that issue, you just need to push hard. I removed indoor panel to see what was happening, and it's just a poor design exacerbated by low temperatures.
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Old 11-10-2019, 09:16 AM   #26
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I'm thinking my cheapest and easiest solution will be to cut the length of my present cord to about ten feet and then buy an extension cord. It is not to hard to get the first part of the cord into the mouse hole, it is the second half that gets difficult.
If you are considering this, why not leave it the full length (tucked in the storage compartment ) and plug the extension cord into it at the mouse hole? This way you dont have to deal with it but you know you have the full length, or a couple of feet, if you ever find yourself in one of those situations where you wish you had more.
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Old 11-10-2019, 10:56 AM   #27
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I'm thinking my cheapest and easiest solution will be to cut the length of my present cord to about ten feet and then buy an extension cord. It is not to hard to get the first part of the cord into the mouse hole, it is the second half that gets difficult.
Maybe don’t cut. Buy an extension cords and only pull out a foot or two and use the extension cord in the cold weather.
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Old 11-10-2019, 11:46 AM   #28
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Cord

I have just put mine in the cab for a few minutes and let it warm up,, then no problems
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Old 11-10-2019, 12:25 PM   #29
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...or you could always pound a copper stake in the ground and run a ground wire to your generator
Unfortunately you could pound a dozen stakes into the ground and it will still not work. You MUST tie the ground and neutral together at the generator for the EMS to work with a generator. This is exactly what is done in an electric meter panel on a house, the ground is established at the panel and the neutral is connected to the ground. From that point on out, the ground is a safety bond and the neutral carries current. When using a generator, a ground rod is not needed or practical. If you were to use a ground rod, depending on the soil and moisture content, you would need to drive a rod at least six feet or more to get an effective ground, and depending on where you were located, risk driving the rod into an underground utility or phone or water or sewer facility. Just use the bonded plug and you will be safe and your rig will be protected with the EMS. When you switch the bypass, you will only have lightning protection.
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Old 11-10-2019, 12:36 PM   #30
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Unfortunately you could pound a dozen stakes into the ground and it will still not work. You MUST tie the ground and neutral together at the generator for the EMS to work with a generator. This is exactly what is done in an electric meter panel on a house, the ground is established at the panel and the neutral is connected to the ground. From that point on out, the ground is a safety bond and the neutral carries current. When using a generator, a ground rod is not needed or practical. If you were to use a ground rod, depending on the soil and moisture content, you would need to drive a rod at least six feet or more to get an effective ground, and depending on where you were located, risk driving the rod into an underground utility or phone or water or sewer facility. Just use the bonded plug and you will be safe and your rig will be protected with the EMS. When you switch the bypass, you will only have lightning protection.

That is good to know. I was kind of putting out the grounding rod idea as a joke, because I have never seen or heard of anyone doing it. I thought it would do the same thing as a bonded plug but apparently it does not. I confirmed what you said on the OSHA website. OSHA said it is not necessary to ground a portable generator to the earth. It also said grounding and bonding are not the same thing.

Good information, thanks!
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Old 11-12-2019, 09:59 PM   #31
Jim Aitken
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In addition to being difficult to push the cord into the hole, I often have had the problem where it gets tangled up in there and it won't come out until I remove an inside panel to untangle it. So we do what several others here have done. Buy a 25 ft extension and connect it to the existing plug at the hole. Then only pull out the internal cord when there is a need for more length.
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Old 11-13-2019, 06:14 AM   #32
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I also removed the mouse hole and installed a twist connection. The space where the cord used to go, I installed my EMS unit.

Sorry for the sideways picture...

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Old 11-13-2019, 09:30 AM   #33
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Open the storage space on the inside of the RV. There you should be able to spot the problem. I thought I had a short 30amp cord until someone showed me it was hung up inside.
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Old 11-13-2019, 02:32 PM   #34
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I think that was when the final straw for me is when the cord hung up inside. I had to pull the power center and take apart the cabinet to untangle the mess.
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