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Old 11-04-2020, 06:33 PM   #801
Bill-2020
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Modified an extension cord reel from Lowes to roll up the TT power cord. Mounted to the ceiling of the pass through, as far left as possible. The handle of the cord reel holds the pedestal end secure and the trailer end then is cradled using the handle of the cord reel. I have a small bungee attached to the top corner of the ceiling down to any of the holes on side, it keeps the reel from rolling backwards while traveling. Sure nice to have that up and out of the way.
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Old 11-04-2020, 06:47 PM   #802
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I'm studying this. Do you wrap the cord on by hand? If not, how do you keep the trailer side of the cord from twisting all to heck?
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Old 11-04-2020, 06:53 PM   #803
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I'm studying this. Do you wrap the cord on by hand? If not, how do you keep the trailer side of the cord from twisting all to heck?
It spins / rolls up.

See the slit in the side of the reel, shore end, where the cord slips through? That starts the pedestal end, then I simply spin the reel neatly rolling up the cable until the trailer end comes up. I then lay that back over the handle (second picture). Keep in mind this extension cord reel is inverted from its intended use on the ground. Use a short, small bungee from the front of the reel to the top corner of the pass through to keep "tension" on the reel so it doesn't unspool from the weight of the cable.

Oh, this is a 30amp cord, 30 foot.
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Old 11-04-2020, 07:25 PM   #804
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Oh, duh, OK. You start rolling from the loose end. It's obvious now. Thanks.
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Old 11-05-2020, 01:20 PM   #805
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Installed and set up my WDH. Getting ready for the maiden voyage in a couple of weeks. Have been living in the TT for about a month. Waiting for our house to be built.
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Old 11-05-2020, 09:31 PM   #806
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Installed and set up my WDH. Getting ready for the maiden voyage in a couple of weeks. Have been living in the TT for about a month. Waiting for our house to be built.
Good thing with that is you probably have most of the problems already resolved before the first trip.
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Old 11-05-2020, 09:58 PM   #807
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Finally located and snaked out the feed wire for my mouse-chewed clearance light. After plying my Harbor Freight "industrial proctoscope" for a couple hours through the landing light hole, a wall outlet hole, and the USB charger hole to find the severed cable, it dawned on me that with only four screws I could pull the entire "bookcase" headboard out of the wall and obtain unfettered access to nearly the entire area behind the front cap, making examination of the harnesses super easy. Second best lesson was that working at night to inspect behind the cap eliminates all the blinding filon glare and interior shadow.

My "fix" and "maintain" lists are now complete, and I can get back to my "enhancement" list.
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Old 11-06-2020, 09:21 AM   #808
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[QUOTE=LHaven;420148]Finally located and snaked out the feed wire for my mouse-chewed clearance light. After plying my Harbor Freight "industrial proctoscope" for a couple hours through the landing light hole, a wall outlet hole, and the USB charger hole to find the severed cable, it dawned on me that with only four screws I could pull the entire "bookcase" headboard out of the wall and obtain unfettered access to nearly the entire area behind the front cap,


Everything you do with a TT or 5er is a learning experience... I've been fortunate to have this forum to ask questions regarding issues and have been able to resolve 99.9% of them with the help of these knowledgeable members... as a newbie it's been invaluable...
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Old 11-12-2020, 04:38 PM   #809
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Finished installing the top portion of the refrigerator heat deflector. Heat from the chimney heated the side wall of our food pantry horribly. Poor design. The aluminum sheets are about 7 inches wide and they deflect the heat put off from the chimney. No insulation behind the metal sheet was needed. Problem of warming the soup before the cans were open is now fixed.
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Old 11-12-2020, 04:43 PM   #810
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Problem of warming the soup before the cans were open is now fixed.
Didn't you read your Keystone Owners' Manual? That's a feature.
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Old 11-13-2020, 11:16 AM   #811
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Finished installing the top portion of the refrigerator heat deflector. Heat from the chimney heated the side wall of our food pantry horribly. Poor design. The aluminum sheets are about 7 inches wide and they deflect the heat put off from the chimney. No insulation behind the metal sheet was needed. Problem of warming the soup before the cans were open is now fixed.
I need to do this in my Passport, We always left the pantry door open because of this...
Do you have any info on how to do this?
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Old 11-13-2020, 02:07 PM   #812
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I need to do this in my Passport, We always left the pantry door open because of this...
Do you have any info on how to do this?
The two sections were done at different times (months apart) otherwise I would have done this all in one day (I tested the idea with the bottom half first).

For the bottom half of the deflector, I moved the fridge out (inward) about a foot to get some room from the outside bottom vent. I then took a piece of aluminum sheet, cut it 24"x7", bent the bent the long side in by an inch, 90 degrees, and butted that bent side up against the insulation that stops short, where the back the fridge ends. I had already screwed in a couple of 1x2 blocks of wood (6"long) at the bottom and top of the deflector (to give me backers to screw the deflector into). The top backer was screwed into pantry wall from inside the cabinet. I had marked from the outside the location of the block and drilled two pilot holes through the Luan for screw locations. I then had the DW screw through those two holes into the block of wood I was holding in place from the outside. The bottom block was screwed into the base of plywood that the fridge sits on.

For the top half, I had two options; pull the fridge all the way out and crawl in, or go in from the top vent. In my case, the top vent screen was rusted badly anyway, so I decided to cut the OEM screen away, put in the top half of the metal deflector and place a new piece of coated screen on at the end. Pulling the fridge out to do both sections at one would be easier so long as you have help getting the fridge out and back in. I did not. (DW isn't able to lift that kind of weight.)

So from the top, I backed the two top deflector screws out that were already there, slid in the top section down and in behind the bottom section then trimmed the top to fit as you can see in the picture above. Once it was trimmed to my liking, I used the same two screws that held the bottom section in and screwed through both sections into the backer wood securing the top of the bottom section, and the bottom of the top section. Then I screwed in the top and called it done.

The air gap (about 1") between the sheet metal and the pantry Luan wall is enough to keep the warm metal from warming the Luan panel. This decreased the heat to nearly nothing on the inside of the pantry. The reason for the bent end is to keep the deflector stiff and straight, and to keep any heat from making its way around and warming the Luan. I guess a piece of good flame resistant insulation (foam, fiberglass, etc.) would have worked, but I used what I had on hand and didn't have to worry about it coming loose on the road and touching the scorching hot chimney (or whatever it's officially called). You could also insulate the inside somehow I guess, but I need all the square inches I can get, know what I mean?!

The sheet metal reflects the heat nicely. Oh, the unbent side of the deflector(s), toward the outside wall and gray tank vent, is open to fresh air to allow any warmed air to rise and quickly escape rather than be trapped and thus warm the wall we were trying to cool off.
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Old 11-15-2020, 08:03 AM   #813
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My intention a few weeks ago was to get rid of the plastic bushings that will fail quickly and install MoRydes wetbolt kit. Well, while the suspension is unbolted and such, why not install the CRE3000 equalizers while I have the chance. I felt the cost was worth it. I also capped off the zerks with covers from Amazon to keep the road grime at a minumum. Faced the zerks out for ease of maintenance. I gained about 3/4" in frame height off the ground.
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Old 11-15-2020, 09:51 AM   #814
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Started to winterize
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Old 11-15-2020, 10:11 AM   #815
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I git tired of the radio being on when its was powered off. So I installed a cutoff switch.
I've also now winterized it. But might take it back out again!

Bill, I'd love to hear feedback about that equilizer linkage.
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Old 11-16-2020, 09:50 PM   #816
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Removed my interior ceiling speakers and installed speed clips and tooth washers for the mounting screws. Hopefully, no more loose speakers after a long day on the road. I think they sound cleaner now, too. Found the adjustment screw for my radius shower door, and adjusted to keep the bottom wheels to stay in the track between campgrounds. Popped the caps on my battery, and was amazed to find a maintenance item on this rig that did not require maintenance. Experimented with and prepared some LED strips preparatory to mounting them over the two shelves behind the TV.
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Old 11-25-2020, 09:39 PM   #817
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Winterized (prior to ever taking a trip in it!!). Followed the excellent flow sheet in a separate thread, and did fairly well for my first time. Never had to do that on my big coach, as we had been living in it through 2 winters.

I learned something today. The water heater releases water under far more pressure than I expected! After removing the anode rod and getting doused head to toe with frigid water, I says to myself, "Self, this thing holds like 12 gallons... what exactly did you think would happen?"

Also, I learned to clean the crappy hose section I recycled for siphoning antifreeze. I kinda clogged the winterizing line with (probably) dirt. Hope the water pump isn't too mad at me.
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Old 11-27-2020, 05:01 AM   #818
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I learned something today. The water heater releases water under far more pressure than I expected! After removing the anode rod and getting doused head to toe with frigid water, I says to myself, "Self, this thing holds like 12 gallons... what exactly did you think would happen?"
Not if every model has it, but most have a pressure relief valve for that, before removing the anode rod.
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Old 11-27-2020, 05:56 AM   #819
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Winterized (prior to ever taking a trip in it!!). Followed the excellent flow sheet in a separate thread, and did fairly well for my first time. Never had to do that on my big coach, as we had been living in it through 2 winters.

I learned something today. The water heater releases water under far more pressure than I expected! After removing the anode rod and getting doused head to toe with frigid water, I says to myself, "Self, this thing holds like 12 gallons... what exactly did you think would happen?"

Also, I learned to clean the crappy hose section I recycled for siphoning antifreeze. I kinda clogged the winterizing line with (probably) dirt. Hope the water pump isn't too mad at me.
Don't know the arraignment on your unit but on mine the low point drains are close to the water heater and I can can reach them without crawling under the trailer. I open a how water faucet, open the hot water low p[oiont drain then after the water stops flowing I pull the anode. Keeps the pants dry.
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Old 11-27-2020, 10:20 AM   #820
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Make a note to "self" that be sure the water heater has been off for 12-24 hours before you get "doused" with hot water head to toe, that would be much more uncomfortable than frigid water.
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