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Old 11-01-2018, 07:45 AM   #21
rjrelander
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In addition to the "heat source under plastic couplings" issue on the newer 1750RD models, I find it odd that they didn't add an outside door for the new storage under the dinette seat where the tank is on the 2017. Extra cost I suppose, but it seems kind of inconvenient to disassemble half the dinette area to get at the storage compartment.

The tank on the 2018 must be in the middle of the trailer under the bed since the hot water heater appears to be in the same place. On the 2017 1750RD, the storage under the bed is difficult to get into anyway without propping the mattress on your head or installing a pull-out drawer system of some sort.

That said, you've gotta love the big back windows in a little trailer like that. We had ours backed up to a drop off overlooking Lake Superior this summer watching the ore ships come in and out of Two Harbors. It has been just the right size for the two of us and we can squeeze it into just about any spot available.
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:36 AM   #22
jacketslacker
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Originally Posted by rjrelander View Post
In addition to the "heat source under plastic couplings" issue on the newer 1750RD models, I find it odd that they didn't add an outside door for the new storage under the dinette seat where the tank is on the 2017. Extra cost I suppose, but it seems kind of inconvenient to disassemble half the dinette area to get at the storage compartment.

The tank on the 2018 must be in the middle of the trailer under the bed since the hot water heater appears to be in the same place. On the 2017 1750RD, the storage under the bed is difficult to get into anyway without propping the mattress on your head or installing a pull-out drawer system of some sort.

That said, you've gotta love the big back windows in a little trailer like that. We had ours backed up to a drop off overlooking Lake Superior this summer watching the ore ships come in and out of Two Harbors. It has been just the right size for the two of us and we can squeeze it into just about any spot available.

Yes the tank is under the bed, lots of lost space there. It is a bit annoying to have to remove the cushions and the plywood if we want to get into the storage, but it's not the end of the world.



The back windows are the reason we bought this. We LOVE them for the time we've spent in them and are planning some trips where we know we'd back into some awesome views.



We just need to get this stupid water heater issue figured out.
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:51 AM   #23
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Gotta love the back window.
In mine under dinette the back middle storage space I use for hardly used items, bed set and pillows for dinette bed and stuff I didn't use in couple years but might need. as there's no access from outside.
gotta shift the cushions around anyway when using bed.
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Old 11-01-2018, 10:16 AM   #24
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Gotta love the back window.
In mine under dinette the back middle storage space I use for hardly used items, bed set and pillows for dinette bed and stuff I didn't use in couple years but might need. as there's no access from outside.
gotta shift the cushions around anyway when using bed.



The back middle under the table is actually open to the front. It's not enclosed or only accessible by lifting cushions. We just slide stuff under the table and shove it on back. Well, that's the plan at least we don't have it quite figured out but we do know what dimensions we have for storage there.



Where is the tank located at on your model? Just curious what they changed and maybe try and figure out why. Other than to make my life suck because of a melting water inlet.
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Old 11-01-2018, 10:55 AM   #25
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There is a possibility that my earlier post was one of the ones that has been referred. I recently bought a Hideaway 178LHS, and noticed this same issue. I posted an open question about this and received no response. I am attaching two pics of my TT with the problem shown. I would appreciate objective response to this also. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-01-2018, 11:30 AM   #26
rjrelander
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Where is the tank located at on your model? Just curious what they changed and maybe try and figure out why. Other than to make my life suck because of a melting water inlet.
On the 2017 1750RD, if you stand in the kitchen and look out the back window, the fresh water tank and water pump are under the right-hand dinette seat. The fresh water and city inlets are just below and to the front of the back side window on the driver side, kind of at the tip of the "swoop" decal in the picture below.

The port between the water inlets and the wheel is the 30 amp cable. The hot water heater cover below the front window doesn't have any bug screen (at least on ours), just a grid of stamped ventilation holes. Also, this is not actually a picture of our trailer. Our AC unit is side mounted instead of roof mounted and sits just in front of the rear widow.

Apparently, every trailer is a "special" little snowflake ...

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Old 11-01-2018, 12:09 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by rjrelander View Post
On the 2017 1750RD, if you stand in the kitchen and look out the back window, the fresh water tank and water pump are under the right-hand dinette seat. The fresh water and city inlets are just below and to the front of the back side window on the driver side, kind of at the tip of the "swoop" decal in the picture below.

The port between the water inlets and the wheel is the 30 amp cable. The hot water heater cover below the front window doesn't have any bug screen (at least on ours), just a grid of stamped ventilation holes. Also, this is not actually a picture of our trailer. Our AC unit is side mounted instead of roof mounted and sits just in front of the rear widow.

Apparently, every trailer is a "special" little snowflake ...

Attachment 19146

Mine same as above
Also have the side A/C
good thing about that is you can run it off a ex cord at the house.
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Old 11-02-2018, 04:27 AM   #28
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Ours has the side AC as well. Do you find it doesn't really get the front area all that cool as a result? We just figure we'll have to put a fan on the stove (when not in use of course) and blow air forward. Doesn't bother either of us really and we like the air movement just trying to see what all is out there.


I know that if the Keystone response is don't put a bug screen on the door, I'm having my metal fabricator friend build a heat shield/duct to bring the exhaust a few inches away and having it include a screen on it. I'll continue to hound Keystone until they admit I'm right and it's a serious design flaw but as an engineer I know we don't like being told we're wrong and only admit it when we know it won't end.
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Old 11-02-2018, 05:12 AM   #29
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I angled the vents toward the front ,put it on high if needed.
almost always leave it on low .A fan is a good idea maybe a clip on type attached to stove vent ?
Usually don't need it a night,if you do at least it's far enough away that you don't hear it.
Also read that there's less stress on roof without the added weight.
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Old 11-02-2018, 03:43 PM   #30
rjrelander
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Ours has the side AC as well. Do you find it doesn't really get the front area all that cool as a result? We just figure we'll have to put a fan on the stove (when not in use of course) and blow air forward. Doesn't bother either of us really and we like the air movement just trying to see what all is out there.
Yup. Air flow is definitely an issue with no duct work and the bathroom sitting in the middle of the trailer. On our first trip we found an oscillating fan at the nearest hardware store. We put it on the counter by the door to move the air around. Seems to work okay.
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Old 11-09-2018, 08:09 AM   #31
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Well, got it back from dealer yesterday. They replaced the melted cap, and told me to keep it spun around and pointing upwards so it doesn't melt again from being too close. They agreed the design seems kind of stupid but other than reporting it and seeing what Keystone says they don't have anything to offer me other than keep an eye on it and replace again if necessary.


They did recommend that for my hose, possibly using those 3M command strips and anchoring it alongside the trailer and then letting it drop down. Not a bad idea and may start with that before going to a permanent anchor, but will have to see what I end up with the next time we take it out.



At least it's a start for Keystone to investigate. On an aside, I submitted a claim to NHTSA so that maybe that would get them to investigate a bit more too. It's claim #11149834.
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Old 11-09-2018, 10:36 AM   #32
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Well, got it back from dealer yesterday. They replaced the melted cap, and told me to keep it spun around and pointing upwards so it doesn't melt again from being too close. They agreed the design seems kind of stupid but other than reporting it and seeing what Keystone says they don't have anything to offer me other than keep an eye on it and replace again if necessary.


They did recommend that for my hose, possibly using those 3M command strips and anchoring it alongside the trailer and then letting it drop down. Not a bad idea and may start with that before going to a permanent anchor, but will have to see what I end up with the next time we take it out.



At least it's a start for Keystone to investigate. On an aside, I submitted a claim to NHTSA so that maybe that would get them to investigate a bit more too. It's claim #11149834.
Yep, I guess I will just have to come up with my own solution. I think if I can angle the water line away from the heat I should be fine. But this is just another setup task to make sure I do. Another solution is to tell the wife she needs to take cold showers. This will likely also necessitate me bringing along a dog house so I have someplace to sleep
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Old 11-12-2018, 06:24 AM   #33
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I was thinking if I could find a metal version of the little door holder that all the access doors have, I could mount that so it pops open upwards and then just droop the hose over it. Wouldn't really be that big an issue then and move on. Would have to make sure to seal the heck out of that but it's one of a few ideas I've had overall. I'll update after I take it out next time and try something. Hoping to get some cool/cold weather camping done in the next few months so might see what I can do.
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Old 11-12-2018, 07:20 AM   #34
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It looks like, from some of the photos that have been posted, that at least one or two of the members with trailers affected by the water heater exhaust/plastic water inlet plug issue, have a CAMCO blue water filter that they attach to the hose, at the city water inlet.

Why not just buy a 4' CAMCO water hose, a 90 degree brass elbow fitting, install the brass fitting so it's pointed to the rear of the trailer, install the 4' hose to that and construct (or buy) a hanger to clip the other end of the 4' hose/CAMCO blue filter just above the wheel well, on the side of the trailer. Supporting the blue filter in an area about 3' away (aft of) the city water connection will route the hose/filter away from the heat generated by the water heater and you can "droop" the plastic cap over that 90 degree elbow to keep it high enough to prevent it from melting.....

I know this doesn't hold Keystone "accountable for repairs and modifications" but if you wait for them, you may find the trailer is not only "out of warranty" but is paid for, used for years with a melted plastic cap and eventually "sold or traded in on our next RV" before you even hear back from Keystone with those "fateful words" : "We respectfully regret that we will not be able to participate in modification or repair of your problem"........
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:01 AM   #35
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It looks like, from some of the photos that have been posted, that at least one or two of the members with trailers affected by the water heater exhaust/plastic water inlet plug issue, have a CAMCO blue water filter that they attach to the hose, at the city water inlet.

Why not just buy a 4' CAMCO water hose, a 90 degree brass elbow fitting, install the brass fitting so it's pointed to the rear of the trailer, install the 4' hose to that and construct (or buy) a hanger to clip the other end of the 4' hose/CAMCO blue filter just above the wheel well, on the side of the trailer. Supporting the blue filter in an area about 3' away (aft of) the city water connection will route the hose/filter away from the heat generated by the water heater and you can "droop" the plastic cap over that 90 degree elbow to keep it high enough to prevent it from melting.....

I know this doesn't hold Keystone "accountable for repairs and modifications" but if you wait for them, you may find the trailer is not only "out of warranty" but is paid for, used for years with a melted plastic cap and eventually "sold or traded in on our next RV" before you even hear back from Keystone with those "fateful words" : "We respectfully regret that we will not be able to participate in modification or repair of your problem"........
Yes, that was my plan. I will post a picture when I try it out in a couple of weeks. I already was using the 90 degree brass fitting at the city water connection. Now I will do the same, but angle it to the back, then attach the camco filter 4' hose, then the main water hose (to keep it as lite as possible), then the filter, then the water pressure regulator to the water feed. I think with this arrangement it will be lite enough not to need any additional support for the hose as you suggested.
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:08 AM   #36
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Can you attach the filter at the spigot end instead? Then it's not up against the exhaust.
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:17 AM   #37
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Can you attach the filter at the spigot end instead? Then it's not up against the exhaust.
Yep, that was what I meant if it didn't come across correctly. I am trying to keep the heavy parts away from the heater exhaust so I can angle the line away from the heat.
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Old 11-12-2018, 12:59 PM   #38
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As was suggested the Command hook idea seems to be the "quick and dirty" way to keep the hose away from the heat. And no marks on your trailer.
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Old 11-15-2018, 04:06 AM   #39
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I did the filter at the spigot before, but there was a lot of rubber taste from the hose and I was going to put it near the camper next time. I'm thinking I'll try the 3M stuff and see how it goes.


Keystone called the wife yesterday and they pretty much blame the bug screen and said not to use it. If we're worried about bugs then just keep checking it but it shouldn't really be an issue. The bug screen is actually heating up and retaining the heat to cause the melting. Guess we'll have to wait and see what all happens the next time we take it out.
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Old 11-15-2018, 08:16 AM   #40
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"but there was a lot of rubber taste from the hose "
Im assuming your using a white hose ?.
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