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Old 03-05-2019, 12:08 PM   #21
vampress_me
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Originally Posted by Nicculi View Post
Ok, so now, pros and cons of b&w vs factory pucks?
I will be interested to see what other have to say. Just in case anything can make me change my mind before we order our new truck.

For me, I could have ordered our current truck with the puck system, but I prefer the B&W turnoverball. We had had it installed in our previous truck when we got the Cougar, and really liked it. Our next truck (basically same F-350 except DRW) is also going to be ordered without the puck system. I still prefer my B&W for both gooseneck and 5th wheel towing (and, boy oh boy was I switching between the two last summer!). I’ve played with a Reese hitch, but just prefer the B&W Companion. I know I won’t have the in-bed plug, but don’t have it now and don’t see ever saying “dang I wish I had that”. I may also be slightly biased since we have the B&W RVK3500, so I can just re-use that in the next truck and only need to buy the turnover assembly.
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Old 03-05-2019, 04:31 PM   #22
JRTJH
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Lynette,

If you really want a 7 pin connector in the bed of your new truck, CURT Hitch company sells one for about $70. It's as simple as drilling a 2.125" hole in the sidewall of the bed, unplugging the connector at the back of the bumper plug, installing the new harness plug and replugging the OEM connector to that. If you decide to do it, take a look at the new Ford trucks to get a good idea for the location of where to drill. There are some clearance issues if you locate it too close to the tail light and/or too high on the sidewall.

If you were here, I'd give you the harness. I took it out of my 2010 F150 and it's been hanging in the garage since then. Here's the link to the CURT wiring harness: https://www.curtmfg.com/part/56080 The installation instructions are at the bottom of the webpage so you can see how easy it is to install an "in bed connector".... Don't forget to order the "insulator kit" for installation on aluminum truck bodies, without it you will probably get some galvanic corrosion with the steel bolts that hold the plug to the sidewall. It's on the webpage linked above.
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Old 03-05-2019, 04:39 PM   #23
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Diesel, your friendly GMC dealer parts girl will be happy to sell you four of these. Etrailer may also.
Try this as an example: https://www.etrailer.com/p-RP30868.html
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Old 03-05-2019, 05:03 PM   #24
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Crawl under your truck at the front of the bed on the drivers side the wiring might be there for wiring up a 7 pin plug. It was on my 02 Silverado and my 07 GMC
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Old 03-05-2019, 05:07 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by cookinwitdiesel View Post
Personally, I test drove both a 2018 High Country as well as my 2018 Denali, I preferred the Denali styling a lot more. My understanding, the the Denali has about 330# less payload than a lesser trimmed vehicle. Matters more at the 3/4 ton size than a 1 ton most likely.

For 5ers, a SRW 1 Ton is still going to be limited to the smaller trailers, the big ones all need a DRW.

Folks have mentioned adding the factory puck system after the purchase, for the life of me I have been unable to locate anything but the Reese offering that is only compatible with their hitches. Where can I obtain the OEM puck system for aftermarket install? One of the only things I wish my 2500 had.
I too prefer the GMC styling.

I have seen puck systems on etrailer.
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Old 03-05-2019, 05:15 PM   #26
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You can buy the OEM from the dealer, I believe for most the price runs about $400.
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Old 03-07-2019, 08:20 PM   #27
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Well, I did it, signed my life away this evening. I went with the Denali. Man is this a nice truck.Click image for larger version

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Old 03-08-2019, 04:19 AM   #28
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Congrats
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Old 03-08-2019, 04:30 AM   #29
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Well congrats that is a nice looking truck.
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Old 03-08-2019, 05:06 AM   #30
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Very nice, enjoy!
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Old 03-08-2019, 05:55 AM   #31
cookinwitdiesel
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Very nice, don't sweat the mileage, it is barely broken in.
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:14 AM   #32
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Very nice, very nice! You’ve joined the diesel club, mileage doesn’t matter. You probably will never hit the 300-400k that beast should go.
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:15 AM   #33
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I meant miles on the car, not fuel mileage. Nothing beats a diesel when towing.
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Old 03-08-2019, 11:26 AM   #34
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Actually I did too, just poorly worded on my part.
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Old 03-10-2019, 09:37 AM   #35
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Knowing the owner and a savings of 8000,, even thought it's 3 years older says a lot to me. Will the dealer tell you the previous owner of the Denali ?
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Old 03-10-2019, 10:27 AM   #36
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Knowing the owner and a savings of 8000,, even thought it's 3 years older says a lot to me. Will the dealer tell you the previous owner of the Denali ?
I inspect and repair used vehicles for a living. I was able to see the carfax history, and the condition of the Denali sold me. After driving the 2013, I realized I would need to immediately do tires and alignment, it also didn't have some of the creature comforts that my wife and wanted. It is a nice truck, but I realized it wasn't the one for me
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Old 03-10-2019, 01:14 PM   #37
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I just traded my ‘05 Silverado Duramax with 218k miles last week for a 2017 2500HD Z71 crew cab Duramax. It only had 14k miles in new condition. The new L5P is amazing and is a night and day difference towing my Alpine 3401RS over my old LLY. I always keep my cruise set at 65 with my old truck running at 2200 rpm. The new truck is running only 1600 rpm with tow/haul on. I also love the integrated brake controller.
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Old 03-11-2019, 05:50 AM   #38
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I have a 2018 Sprinter. My data plate says gross is 11,600 and pin weight is 1690. I pull with a gas burner F250. My gross tow weight for the F250 is 12,400 and my cargo bed capacity is 2,300 so I am well under on tow weight and pin weight for my truck. The important thing is to stay under your trucks capacity. The new F150s will actually tow your Sprinter with out any problem and be under the new F150's capacity, especially, if you don't have your Sprinter grossed out with extra weight that you really don't need. I have the F250 with a B&W Goose Ball and I have a Reese Goosebox on my Sprinter. I pull my Sprinter and my cattle trailer on a goose ball. The Reese Goosebox is the only goose ball hitch that will not void the Lippert warranty. I am on my 3rd Ford truck, not counting cars (5), Expeditions (3), and a Aerostar (1). My first new Ford truck, a 1990 Ranger, is 30 years old (got it in 1989) and has 293,000 miles on it. It is my go to truck for driving around town and on the farm. The 2008 F150 I had before the current 2017 F250 had 127,000 miles on it and was 10 years old. I listed it for $9,000 on Craigs List and had 3 guys biding on it. I finally sold it for $11,000 to high bidder. I've had lots of offers on my Ranger but it is not for sale. It is all original and is going to one of my grandsons. I had a Chevy once but was always working on it. I am a Ford man but you need to go with what you like just remember to have more truck capacity than the trailer you are pulling.

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Hey all,

I'm in need of a new tow vehicle for my 2019 Sprinter 297fwrls. I currently have an 02 GMC 2500 duramax. I'm looking at a 2016 GMC Denali 3500 duramax with 68k miles, and a 2013 Silverado 3500 duramax with 60k miles. I can get the 2013 for about $8k less. My wife and I like all that the Denali has to offer, and prefer it over the Silverado. That being said, I understand my payload capacity should be higher with the lower trim package on the Silverado. Is there any reason why I should spend more money on the Denali aside from comfort and trim level? Any known mechanical issues between the 2? I know all the service history of the 2013, and know the owner. The Denali is at a dealership..

Thanks for any input
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