PI EMS-LCHW50 installation

K_N_L · 08-12-2018, 07:35 AM

Yesterday I returned to the belly of the beast to install a Progressive Industries surge and electrical protector. I installed it before the transfer switch, some advocate for installing it after which would protect from the generator as well, but my main concern is bad campground pedestals. I also opted for the unit with the build in LCD display versus remote, reasoning was it was simpler and a bit cheaper. As a DIY project, I 'd rate it about a 8 in difficulty, not for the wiring but having to crawl into the storage area and working in cramped space. Add in some aging eyes that had a tough time finding the right focus distance with progressive lenses and now you're having fun. If you are not comfortable working with electrical wiring, strongly recommend consulting or hiring someone who is. Ensure that all electrical power is removed and locked out before you attempt any work.

I'm attaching some photos of the installation. I installed it beside the transfer switch on forward bulkhead which should protect it from any stored items. I was able to remove the shore power feed to the transfer switch, and use it to feed the surge protector. I need a few inches of additional cable and there was enough slack in the feed cable to add the needed length without placing any strain on the cable. Created a rough estimate of the length needed to connect the protector output back to the transfer switch with some bell wire and using that as a template working in the garage I made the 'S' cable out of a section of 6/3 wire. The wire was purchased from Home Depot (about $3 a foot). The part that required the most time was ensuring that all the connections were properly and fully seated. The connections at the output feed of the EMS unit with the load sensors are a tight fit. Recommend that you read the PI installation manual repeatedly before you start, nothing tricky but you gotta get the details right the first time.

I didn't mount the unit until all connections were made as it allowed me to twist and feed the very stiff 6 gauge wire in place easier considering where you are working. Once connections were completed, with some twisting and bending of the cable, mounted the unit with 4 wood screws and checked again that all connections were tight before putting the covers on. I also added a longer section of split cable loom over the angle iron at the top of bulk head to protect the cable insulation from vibration. I plan on adding a cable hold down on the 's' section between the surge protector and the transfer switch.

With the covers on, killed all the individual breakers in the camper before reconnecting the RV power cord. Unit powered up and started cycled thru the display data (voltage, load1/2, freq). Feeling good, added breakers and testing the outlets, lastly added the a/c breakers. - No problems!

Last thing to address was to fit the plastic cover that hid, protected the power cable. I wasn't able to make it a precise as the factory, but with a heat gun it will soften up where you can shape it as needed.

I'm a bit sore today from all the contortions I had to put myself through but feel good that the camper is protected.

xrated · 08-12-2018, 11:30 AM

I feel your pain, I installed mine about a year ago in the baggage/storage compartment of my Impact 303 and by the time I was done, I though it might be time to celebrate my 90th Birthday......by the way I felt......not how long it took me! I did do the remote display and placed it beside the curbside of the bed in the trailer. It's kind of hidden, yet easy to get to and see if needed. Becoming a contortionist at 63 years old wasn't on my list of things to do in this lifetime, but sometimes you just have to do what you have to do.

I would suggest to you to go back and check the tightness of all of your electrical connections though after you've used it a few times and travelled a few times.....most likely you'll be able to get a 1/4 turn or slightly more on most of them.

K_N_L · 08-12-2018, 12:26 PM

I will go back and check all the connections after our beach trip next weekend. I kinda wish I opt'ed for the remote display, I can see the display but have to stick my head in the compartment pretty far.

**JRTJH** · 08-12-2018, 04:48 PM

I feel your pain. At 70+ it's not nearly as easy to crawl around inside cupboards and under vehicles as it used to be. Hurts much more the next day too.....

I installed the 30 amp version of the same EMS you installed. No remote display and I was concerned with how to monitor the readout. I bought a wooden "large button" switch plate at Lowes that matches the color of the wood in the Cougar, cut a square of 1/8" lexan to cover the hole, making a window. I cut the cabinet front and screwed the switchplate to the cabinet. Now I have a "window to the EMS" and can see the display from almost anywhere in the main cabin of the trailer.

By the way, are you aware that Progressive makes a remote bypass switch for your EMS? You can see mine, installed just under the Propane Monitor in the first photo. It installs easily and you can put it anywhere. It will allow you to bypass the EMS if you want to use generator power (no bonded ground) or if you want to bypass the system for any other reason. Cost is about $28 and installation takes about 10 minutes. Let me know if you're interested and I'll post a link to where to buy the bypass switch.

WNY Bullet · 08-13-2018, 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K_N_L

I will go back and check all the connections after our beach trip next weekend. I kinda wish I opt'ed for the remote display, I can see the display but have to stick my head in the compartment pretty far.

Can you mount it on a couple of L brackets so the display is facing your opening?

**flybouy** · 08-13-2018, 06:45 AM

I did a similar install as John. I to feel your pain. My power comes in at the bottom of a closet. I'm only 64 and installed mine 6 years ago. I've had 5 shoulder/arm surgeries and then only 4 cervical spine surgeries (2 more since then and looking at another in Oct.).

Finding a position to accommodate all the ouches and making the progressive lenses to work was challenging. I think I created some new swear words during that install.

Looks like you did a good job and you should be able to sleep better knowing you have one less concern.

K_N_L · 08-13-2018, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WNY Bullet

Can you mount it on a couple of L brackets so the display is facing your opening?

Pretty sure that could work, its not very heavy and the cables can be bent to almost hold it in place. Might need to look for some on the next trip to the hardware store.

MerlinB · 08-13-2018, 11:24 AM

If you get the remote monitor it includes the bypass switch.

**JRTJH** · 08-13-2018, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MerlinB

If you get the remote monitor it includes the bypass switch.

Progressive has two "built in EMS models" that are available in either 30 or 50 amp units. There is the EMS-LCHW30/EMS-LCHW50 and the EMS-HW30C/EMS-HW50C.

The LCHW series (what the OP installed and what I installed) is not available with a remote display. There is a remote bypass switch available, but it does not have a remote display capability.

The HW**C series (that you have) is available with an optional remote display/bypass switch. That capability is not available on the LCHW series EMS units.

MerlinB · 08-13-2018, 12:01 PM

OK. Thanks for clarifying. Didn't realize there are two different models. Mine is installed behind the aft bulkhead of the basement storage compartment so a remote display was mandatory.

**JRTJH** · 08-13-2018, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MerlinB

OK. Thanks for clarifying. Didn't realize there are two different models. Mine is installed behind the aft bulkhead of the basement storage compartment so a remote display was mandatory.

Yours is the EMS-HW50C. It comes with the remote display (no display on the actual unit). The remote plugs into the unit and is mounted remotely, as in your trailer, next to the control panel. The remote has a bypass switch on it.

The "other model EMS" is the EMS-LCHW30/50. It has the display window ON the unit and there is no means by which to plug in an external (remote) display). There is an OPTIONAL bypass switch available ($28) that connects inside the unit, on the field coil of the contact relay, to allow for bypassing the EMS. Without the bypass switch, there is no capability to bypass the unit unless you "unwire/rewire" it every time you want to turn it off (bypass the system). That's why I mentioned purchasing the bypass switch to the OP. If he chooses to use a generator with his trailer, the EMS-LCHW50 that he installed will not allow the generator to provide power to the trailer because it will sense the open ground (Error Code E2) and disable power to the trailer.

There is a work around, a ground bonding plug to install on the generator, but that's another "argument in the works" for many people who feel it's not the best option to bond the neutral to chassis ground on a portable generator.

Anyway...... Your system ain't the same as the OP's or mine......

B-O-B'03 · 08-13-2018, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

... If he chooses to use a generator with his trailer, the EMS-LCHW50 that he installed will not allow the generator to provide power to the trailer because it will sense the open ground (Error Code E2) and disable power to the trailer...

Hi John,

OP stated he installed his unit ahead of the transfer switch, so I assume he has a genset and it won't be a problem, since the genset should be feeding the other input on the transfer switch?

-Brian

**JRTJH** · 08-13-2018, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B-O-B'03

Hi John,

OP stated he installed his unit ahead of the transfer switch, so I assume he has a genset and it won't be a problem, since the genset should be feeding the other input on the transfer switch?

-Brian

Yup, it appears that he does. In the photos he posted, it appears that he placed the EMS on the shore power input to the transfer switch and that it doesn't affect or monitor the generator side of the transfer switch. Also, if you'll notice in his photos, there is a jumper on both the control panel and the generator leads between the Neutral and the Aux terminals. I'd suspect that his transfer switch has been wired to eliminate the "generator floating ground" issue through those jumpers.

GMcKenzie · 08-22-2018, 02:23 PM

I hear you on the contortionist part. Installed mine under the fridge (power come in there) and even just laying on the floor and trying to fit two hands in the opening was tough.

I put my display above the fridge. Not out of the way, but I can see it from anywhere except the bathroom and bedroom. Nice having the switch to turn it off for the odd time I run the generator.

moodman · 08-26-2018, 08:29 AM

What would you do if the connector for shore power is at the back of the rig, as mine is? It's about 30 feet from the back to the basement area. Plus, how would I get my wires through the rig from the front to the back? I'm wondering if there is an easier way...

WNY Bullet · 08-27-2018, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moodman

What would you do if the connector for shore power is at the back of the rig, as mine is? It's about 30 feet from the back to the basement area. Plus, how would I get my wires through the rig from the front to the back? I'm wondering if there is an easier way...

There was room behind my power center to mount mine and I ran my remote to where I can see it. Where is your power center located? Since your power cord goes directly there already, is there room nearby?

K_N_L · 08-27-2018, 06:26 AM

I was discussing the setup with experienced electrician (he put our entire data center on a generator so pretty sure he knows his stuff), and he suggested that when on generator I should have a ground to earth. Logic was that while the gen is grounded to the trailer chassis, the camper is on rubber tires and maybe blocks to the jacks. So have a 20' length of green 6AWG that can be connected to the generator and a ground rod if we ever boondock on dirt or gravel. I have noticed that there are grounding lugs on some campground ped's. As some pointed out my EMS is on the shore power cord, upstream of the transfer switch, no problems on generator.

bobbecky · 08-27-2018, 07:08 PM

As long as your generator is bonded to the trailer, an external ground rod is not needed. To create a ground that would do any good, you would have to carry an eight foot rod and drive it into the ground most of the way, and I don't see anyone doing that. If you have an onboard generator, it will already be tied to your rig's frame. If you are using an portable inverter generator, such as the Honda's, a simple ground to neutral plug inserted into a spare outlet on the generator will prevent an issue with the EMS.

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