|
|
11-26-2014, 06:47 AM
|
#21
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Arizona
Posts: 375
|
That is what I thought too. However, a brand new battery does the same thing the original battery did: with the ground cable completely disconnected; positive connected, goes dead is less than 48 hours. With both cables disconnected, battery will maintain 12+ volts for months. My military MOS was Electrician and I have spoken to a number of automotive electricians including from Keystone and no one has any idea of what the problem is; only that disconnecting both terminals solves it.
|
|
|
11-26-2014, 07:05 AM
|
#22
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waco, Tx
Posts: 5,457
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbell
That is what I thought too. However, a brand new battery does the same thing the original battery did: with the ground cable completely disconnected; positive connected, goes dead is less than 48 hours. With both cables disconnected, battery will maintain 12+ volts for months. My military MOS was Electrician and I have spoken to a number of automotive electricians including from Keystone and no one has any idea of what the problem is; only that disconnecting both terminals solves it.
|
Then logic dictates that something in the trailer is positive to ground...
__________________
2015 Ford F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel XL
2020 Avalanche 313 RS
|
|
|
11-27-2014, 12:11 PM
|
#23
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Clinton, Tn
Posts: 270
|
Electrons flow from negative to positive. Automobiles have negative ground systems, so any work you do electrically, you disconnect the negative cable to protect the electronics. If you disconnected the positive, electrons are theoretically wanting to flow from the negative terminal, through the wiring, through the devices, and back to the positive. If you disconnect the negative, it cant even start. To me, it doesn't make any difference. But you will not find an automobile manual to tell you to disconnect the positive. It is always the negative. I assume RV's are wired the same.
__________________
2015 Montana High Country 305RL
Previous campers:
2008 Rockwood Ultra Lite 2603
1998 Coleman Grandview pop-up with slide
Trucks:
2006 Ford F350 CC, SB, DRW, 4x4
1992 Ford F150 SC, SB, 4x4
|
|
|
11-27-2014, 12:29 PM
|
#24
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Upland, CA
Posts: 425
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotyetMHCowner
Electrons flow from negative to positive. Automobiles have negative ground systems, so any work you do electrically, you disconnect the negative cable to protect the electronics. If you disconnected the positive, electrons are theoretically wanting to flow from the negative terminal, through the wiring, through the devices, and back to the positive. If you disconnect the negative, it cant even start. To me, it doesn't make any difference. But you will not find an automobile manual to tell you to disconnect the positive. It is always the negative. I assume RV's are wired the same.
|
That is a great explanation, but the reason for disconnecting the negative cable in an automotive reason, is to lessen the chance of a spark by removing the positive side first. Battery explosions are more susceptible to the spark at the source. I don't disagree with your statement, it's just more of a safety issue I believe. That being said, I do open the positive side with the switch.
__________________
2015 Four Winds Super C, Class C Motorhome
4 - 100w mono solar panels with MPPT40 to charge four 6v batteries with 440amp hours.
Progressive Industries HW50c surge protector
1800 / 3600 inverter with auto transfer switch,
The bosses: My wife and two Labradoddles 80 lbs each
|
|
|
12-01-2014, 12:06 PM
|
#25
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Illinois
Posts: 581
|
Battery disconnect - sometimes
I make it easy - I remove the battery and put it on the shelf with a battery 'maintainer' hooked up in the garage.
There have been several threads about the Battery disconnect that comes on the RV, and how that doesn't remove the power from the landing gear or rear stablizers, which makes sense, or at least I understand it now.
What I found interesting, one time I had the Disconnect turned off - and yet the lights and pump inside the RV were still working! To say I was 'shocked', is to good of a pun to pass up, but I really was surprised! What it ended up being is that the switch, inside the disconnect didn't 'release', or however you want to describe it so the lights and things stayed powered. I checked, and just bumped the switch, and it snapped off. So, we all may want to check to see if the disconnect switch actually disconnects the power. It probably would bounce it enough to make it go off when traveling down the road?
__________________
Ed & Mary
2017 Cougar 333MKS
2015 RAM 3500 HD with 6.4L
|
|
|
12-03-2014, 03:49 PM
|
#26
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Upland, CA
Posts: 425
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pmedic4
I make it easy - I remove the battery and put it on the shelf with a battery 'maintainer' hooked up in the garage.
|
Unfortunately at my age, the battery is too heavy for me, I have to use the disconnect and I do with great success.
__________________
2015 Four Winds Super C, Class C Motorhome
4 - 100w mono solar panels with MPPT40 to charge four 6v batteries with 440amp hours.
Progressive Industries HW50c surge protector
1800 / 3600 inverter with auto transfer switch,
The bosses: My wife and two Labradoddles 80 lbs each
|
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|