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Old 09-16-2014, 04:53 PM   #21
JRTJH
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I can "fur sur" know that you're not a "happy camper" with this going on. Have you considered contacting Dometic and asking them to "get off the pot"?

As you said, nobody at the dealership knows what the "guy in charge" is doing and the "guy in charge" has been "out to lunch" for so long, he hasn't found his way back to work... So they are out.... And the little family operation is all "bulletproof" so they aren't going to point fingers either.....

Maybe a "discerning customer" who's had it with trying to get his refrigerator repaired can "call Dometic and ask for their help in getting the investment back on the road after such a disappointing two months.......

I'd have "lost my cool" quite some time ago..... Good Luck
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:12 PM   #22
gearhead
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I usually try to give folks in this kind of business a pass on Mondays. I used to hate walking in to the office on Monday morning with 30 phone messages and pages of emails about everything that broke and went wrong over the weekend. Then go to the 8am morning meeting and be told the same thing and asked when will it all be fixed.
Ah yes, I'm liking retirement.
Actually the Mom & Pop place mentioned it may be total replacement. I shot them an email this afternoon, probably call tomorrow.
It will be OK. The son-in-law just discovered he needs major surgery next week. We would likely just turned around and come back home.
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Old 09-22-2014, 05:46 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
It sounds like you're facing multiple electrical problems. First of all, the battery/converter are a 12 VDC issue. There probably isn't a "fuse" between the two, but rather one or two 12 volt circuit breakers. They look like the one pictured here and usually have a red plastic cover over the two terminals. Usually they are mounted on the bulkhead right behind the battery box. Follow the positive battery lead (black) from the battery. It should go directly to these circuit breakers.

The A/C and furnace are both controlled by the wall thermostat. The thermostat must be set to AUTO for the furnace to operate independently. If the thermostat fan switch is set to LOW or HIGH, both the A/C and the furnace will operate when the thermostat calls for furnace function.

What causes you to think the fireplace "would not run at 1500 watts" ? If it runs at all, it should run through the entire heat range. If it opens a circuit breaker, you're pulling too much amperage (possibly from another appliance on the same circuit). If it just doesn't seem to put out "a blast of hot air" realize that it's really nothing more than a "moving picture" of a fire and a portable electric heater mounted in the same box. It won't put out more than about 4500 btu's of heat. That's not really "a blast of hot air" but rather a "stream of warm air".

If, when you say, "the power was flickering when running the generator" and you mean "ALL" the power in the RV, it's either a generator problem or an input shore power problem. If, however, you mean the "12 volt" system was "flickering" it's possibly a loose connection on the power input to the converter. It is possible that the converter is bad, but don't make that determination unless you've thoroughly checked it out.

I wouldn't change the converter (assuming it's bad) until it has been properly evaluated. WFCO does have a "reputation" of failures, but they have a 2 year warranty and a large percentage of WFCO products have been trouble-free for a number of years past that 2 year mark.
Well got a call from the stealership late friday afternoon the diagnose of the electrical issue is a bad crimp on the main feed wire into the Convertor, it set off a few of the fuses on the Convertor. The flickering I am going to assume is a dirty electrical signal in the system. I had the same issue with our 15,000 psi compressor at work, the power transformer was sending power spikes through out the electrical system giving us erroneous signals and indications.

Going to pick up today.

And of course it is out of the manufacturers 1 year warranty. I could have went with the extended warranty, however there is a $50 deductible and the fix was $70. If I don't use the EW then I get cash back in another 4 years, so instead of wasting it on what for all intense purposes would save me $20 really it was not worth it. I want to save that EW for a substantial fix, and if it does not happen a nice little check back would be great. And if I don't use it then that is a great indicator we have a fairly good trailer, in my eyes at least!
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