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Old 10-21-2014, 05:22 AM   #21
grampscamper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
You can download complete instructions from Dexter's website.
Thanks Bob I'll do that.
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:53 AM   #22
MIKEPATC
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I would leave the equalizer center bolt alone. I just did the whole EZ Flex kit last month. The center bolt is different that all the others.
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:02 AM   #23
grampscamper
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Originally Posted by MIKEPATC View Post
I would leave the equalizer center bolt alone. I just did the whole EZ Flex kit last month. The center bolt is different that all the others.
I noticed that when I did a search. I only have wet bolts in the kit not the center bolt that normally comes with the EZ Flex kit. As long as it pivots freely I will leave it alone. Don't need to look for trouble.
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:03 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by MIKEPATC View Post
I would leave the equalizer center bolt alone. I just did the whole EZ Flex kit last month. The center bolt is different that all the others.

Mike

I have a EZ-Flex system on my 2014 Laredo 329RE similar to the one in the pictures posted above by Hankpage. I have attached a link to Dexter's website. Are these the wet bolt kits you used? And it states single axle, so can I assume I need 2 sets for my tandem axle ?

http://www.dexteraxle.com/inc/sdetail/3902

Bill
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:20 AM   #25
grampscamper
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Originally Posted by Bill & Deb View Post
Mike

I have a EZ-Flex system on my 2014 Laredo 329RE similar to the one in the pictures posted above by Hankpage. I have attached a link to Dexter's website. Are these the wet bolt kits you used? And it states single axle, so can I assume I need 2 sets for my tandem axle ?

http://www.dexteraxle.com/inc/sdetail/3902

Bill
Bill I think you need this. Ours is a 2014 Laredo 312re. Your suspension is the same as mine. It came from the factory with EZ Flex with standard bolts. I purchased the kit from a local trailer parts store here in Canada. I think this kit is likely the same as the one I have.


http://www.morryde.com/aftermarket/r...pgrade-23.html

Edit: I just noticed you live in Ontario. You can order the parts directly from Cerka Industries in Milton. You can order Part# 32-C71-359-00 less the equalizer. You may need to order 6 extra brass bushings.
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:36 AM   #26
bdaniel
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I put the Dextor EZ Flex upgrade on my 2012 Copper Canyon and was very happy with it.

I did the wet bolt kit on my 2014 325SRX. Here is a write up with some photos:

http://www.bobbystuff.com/RV/index.p...e-wet-bolt-kit
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:41 AM   #27
MIKEPATC
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Bill
Yes, with the Dexter Kit you would need two (2) for a double axle. With the Mor/ryde kit you get
two extra wet bolts, because you don't need to replace the center bolt in the equalizer.
I actually had to use the complete EZ-Flex Kit that I got from etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Susp...71-652-00.html

I have a travel Trailer and actually went one step further. I also replaced the weak 4 leaf springs with new 5 leaf springs. Replacing the springs at the same time allowed me to do the bushing replacement on the bench (yup… the new springs come with plastic bushings). This saves a lot of time and strain under the trailer. We started at about 9:00 AM and completed both sides by 2:30 PM (that includes a couple breaks and lunch). The ball joint tool to press in the bolts made things so much easier. I am getting too weak with age, so I need all the mechanical advantage I can get.

I ordered an extra bolt, ground off the serrations near the head and used it to help press in the brass spring eye bushings.

Most important thing to remember !!!!! You DO NOT want the old bolt or the new bolt to turn while removing or installing it from the spring hanger. You do not want to round out the hole in the hanger. The serrations of the new bolt need to bite into the spring eye hanger and not turn.

This isn't a flashy mod, but if you travel a lot it is great peace of mind and easier on the suspension.

Mike
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:50 AM   #28
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Oh ... if you want 36 pages of forums on this topic ... try here:
http://forums.goodsamclub.com/index....pging/1/page/1

Gave me a lot of confidence.

Mike
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Old 10-21-2014, 01:27 PM   #29
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A couple more questions

I noticed that the propane line runs most of the way along the frame on one side of the trailer. There is a spot at each end of the I-beam where I can jack up the trailer.
Is it O.K. to support the trailer near each end of the I-beam or should I move the propane line and support it closer to the axles? I have two 7 ton jack stands to support the trailer. I plan to do one side at a time.
Will it hurt the plastic undercarriage covering when jacking up the trailer? I plan to use a small piece of plywood or hardwood on top of the jack and jack stands.
Thanks everyone for your feedback. Very helpful and informative.
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:46 PM   #30
grampscamper
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Originally Posted by MIKEPATC View Post
Oh ... if you want 36 pages of forums on this topic ... try here:
http://forums.goodsamclub.com/index....pging/1/page/1

Gave me a lot of confidence.

Mike
Thanks for the link Mike.
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:06 PM   #31
MIKEPATC
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Sounds like you are on the right track. I also upgraded one side at a time. I also have that LP line running along one side of the I-Beam.

I used two bottle jacks on each side of the axles. Got as close to the axles as I could with the bottle jacks and then put the jack stands out a ways. Left the trailer hooked to the truck and even put the stabilizer jacks down for extra security. Didn't worry about affecting the underbelly with jacks or jack stands. If it gets nicked it can be patched easy.

Another key .... Loosen all nuts/lug nuts before you jack up the trailer. Prevents a big struggle while things are up in the air.

I used 2 floor jacks to support the axles during the process. You might need to adjust the axle position to get things lined up for the new bolts to be pressed in.

Mike
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Old 10-22-2014, 03:54 AM   #32
grampscamper
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Originally Posted by MIKEPATC View Post
Sounds like you are on the right track. I also upgraded one side at a time. I also have that LP line running along one side of the I-Beam.

I used two bottle jacks on each side of the axles. Got as close to the axles as I could with the bottle jacks and then put the jack stands out a ways. Left the trailer hooked to the truck and even put the stabilizer jacks down for extra security. Didn't worry about affecting the underbelly with jacks or jack stands. If it gets nicked it can be patched easy.

Another key .... Loosen all nuts/lug nuts before you jack up the trailer. Prevents a big struggle while things are up in the air.

I used 2 floor jacks to support the axles during the process. You might need to adjust the axle position to get things lined up for the new bolts to be pressed in.

Mike
Thanks for the tips Mike. It should go well. I'll report back after the job is complete. I hope to start at it on Friday.
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Old 10-22-2014, 07:01 AM   #33
Bill & Deb
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Originally Posted by grampscamper View Post
Bill I think you need this. Ours is a 2014 Laredo 312re. Your suspension is the same as mine. It came from the factory with EZ Flex with standard bolts. I purchased the kit from a local trailer parts store here in Canada. I think this kit is likely the same as the one I have.


http://www.morryde.com/aftermarket/r...pgrade-23.html

Edit: I just noticed you live in Ontario. You can order the parts directly from Cerka Industries in Milton. You can order Part# 32-C71-359-00 less the equalizer. You may need to order 6 extra brass bushings.
Thanks Gramps and Mike

Too late for me to start on it for this year but will do it in the spring.

Gramps, I look forward to hearing how you make out installing them.


Bill
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Old 10-24-2014, 04:41 PM   #34
grampscamper
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Finished the job today

I finished the job this afternoon. I started after lunch and I was finished by around 4:00. I had a pleasant surprise when I took everything apart. I had brass bushings installed from the factory. The 5th wheel is only one year old so all bushings were in good shape. I didn't have to remove the center bolt in the EZ Flex or replace any bushings. I used 8 shackles and 12 wet bolts. 8 of the bolts that came with the kit were already pressed into the shackles.
Bill the kit cost me around $100.00 Canadian. The most difficult part for me was pressing the 4 bolts into the flanges that are welded into the trailer frame. I broke my C clamp trying to press them in. Fortunately a friend of mine had a heavy duty Bessey clamp I could borrow to finish the job. Laredo291OH is correct, the ball joint tool is definitely the way to go.
I used two 12 ton bottle jacks to jack up the trailer. The bottle jacks I placed under the U bolts that support the springs. I did one side at a time. I left the truck hooked up to the trailer. I chocked the wheels on the opposite side. I jacked it up enough to remove the tires. Then lowered it onto two jack stands to support the trailer on each side of the leaf springs. Once the wheels were removed I lowered the axles enough to remove all bolts.
I had to play with the jacks a little to get the bolts all lined up. I think it's important to be fairly level and make sure your axles aren't twisted at all. When I backed in the driveway I pulled forward and back a few times to make sure everything was aligned. Hank I installed all the bolts with the fittings facing inward. All fittings accepted grease no problem.
Thanks everyone for your assistance.
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Old 10-25-2014, 05:56 AM   #35
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Congrats Gramps
Glad all went well.
The ball joint clamp is definitely a must in my mind.
Too bad the manufacturers just don't do it right the first time.

Mike
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:02 AM   #36
grampscamper
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Congrats Gramps
Glad all went well.
The ball joint clamp is definitely a must in my mind.
Too bad the manufacturers just don't do it right the first time.

Mike
Thanks for your help Mike. I agree 100%. I don't understand why Keystone doesn't do it at the factory. It cost me $100.00 with two levels of markup. I don't think it would cost Keystone an extra $50.00 on a $30,000.0 or$40,000.00 trailer. The new shackles are much heavier. Now I can keep the suspension lubed. I think it should work a little better. Much less chance now for a catastrophic failure.
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Old 10-25-2014, 04:15 PM   #37
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Well, sense I just got back from the beach , perhaps I should do this job now. I had to really make a tight turn with the 5ver this morning, I mean a U turn on a oneway beach street. I threw a couple of shovel loads of sand on the street where the tires would be scuffing the roadway, worked out pretty good. Oh, and the truck (short bed) will make a ninety degree turn, people watching were impressed as well (I acted like I knew what I was doing) I figure now is a good time as I want to really check the mounts and all to make sure everything is still straight after that turn. If I remember I'll take some pictures as well.
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