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Old 09-12-2019, 06:09 PM   #1
JBR160
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Join Date: Jun 2019
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October Hunt Trip

Good evening everyone!
I thought I would be posting questions sooner than this, bought our trailer in June, but thru research on the forum here and the internet, I have answered most of my questions so far. The information here is valuable and I appreciate all of the knowledge everyone has.

With 3 trips under our belt this season, we have had a great time getting out with family and friends. Learned a bunch along the way. Only one major mistake on our first trip. Let's just say that as a newbie hauling a 29' camper thru a campground loop, I did not watch my side mirrors as well as I should have! Big rocks and septic drains do not mix! But thanks to Allstate and the repair shop, all is right!

So one of the reasons we purchased the TT was so that I could use it on my hunt trips. The years in a canvas walls tent were great but I am looking for a little more comfort. I have been doing the research on what it takes to cold weather camp and I would like some advise from ones with a little more experienced than me. I have been elk hunting in the same general area for the last 20+ years. We base camp at about 9,000 ft. Temps over the years in mid October have ranged from highs in the mid 70's to lows in the single digits. Rain, sleet, snow and even an occasional thunder snow is not uncommon. We will be out for a full week. So I am trying to decide to run the TT wet or dry. Here is the plan so far and I just need to know if I am on the right track to make sure everything will work.

The previous owner must have done some cold weather camping as the fresh water tank looks like it has been insulated. They put a silver quilted pad on the bottom and sealed the ends and sides with insulation. I plan on adding a little more insulation to some areas.
Water lines, from what I can tell so far, are all interior and I plan on putting insulation around them. The water pump is located in the cabinet below the sink on the floor by the cabinet face. It should stay pretty warm where it is located.
I have read about putting RV anti freeze in the grey and black water tanks but not sure as to how much.
Looking into a DIY temp trailer skirt that can go up and down easily. Figure that with 11 mil tarp material it should hold heat under the TT pretty good. Cheap cost at $100-$150 for the project.
Just put new batteries on the rig and have a generator to run while at camp to keep them topped off. Extra propane will be a must. If need be, I plan on setting the thermostat at about 40 degrees while we are out and about during the day if it cold and not sunny.

So is this a good plan? Am I missing anything or planning too much? I appreciate any advice.

Thanks!
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Old 09-13-2019, 11:51 AM   #2
Ken / Claudia
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Open the cabinets under the sinks went gone. I will remove the cover over the shower pipes if it gets cold (under the shower on the floor) I have a heat vent in the bathroom. I leave that door open. All to allow warm air from the furnace. I placed a foam pad inside the outside shower compartment since a thin plastic cover was all it has to the cold outside. Making any kind of weather break around the trailer is a great idea. I only did that on 2 trailers at a perimite location. It might take some work to get it right, maybe work on that at home first. Do not forget to have vents open while your in the unit or moisture builds up fast. You might see icing on the inside of the glass at some point.
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Old 09-13-2019, 12:20 PM   #3
JRTJH
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As for "insulating the pipes" inside the trailer, remember that not only will they freeze if cold gets to them (from being too close to the sidewalls) but insulating them will make the heat that keeps the fluids flowing will also be stopped from getting to the pipes. Insulation is a "double-edged sword" in the RV world. There's precious little in the sidewalls, so if you add around the pipes, leaving the cupboard doors open won't help as much and the extra insulation may even make things worse.

As Ken suggested, leave the cupboards open (top and bottom) when you're not there and open them about halfway when you go to bed at night. That way, the heat can get into the cupboards and help delay (or prevent) the pipes near the sidewalls from freezing. Don't insulate those pipes, you'll prevent any heat from getting to them.
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Old 09-13-2019, 02:46 PM   #4
gkainz
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I’ve used my 5er in my sig for everything from spring turkey in SD to WY antelope, CO archery, muzzleloading and rifle, from second season to fourth season. Temps range from hot to “oh crap it’s cold” and altitudes up to 11,500.
In the later seasons I just plan on dry camping with the rv winterized and use water jugs for drinking, cooking, washing, etc.
I run the furnace at night and supplement with a Big Buddy for spot heat when necessary. Shut it all down during the days and hope the solar panels put some juice back in the batteries while I’m out.
I use a Honda 2000 to finish what the solar panels don’t finish.
One year on the Grand Mesa we had a week of -30° lows and +10° highs. I had to run into town and refill my propane mod-hunt.
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Old 09-14-2019, 05:36 AM   #5
JBR160
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Thanks for the tips! Did not think of the outside shower trick. I will definitely be putting the side skirt together at home first to make sure it will work.
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Old 09-14-2019, 09:40 AM   #6
Ken / Claudia
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JBR, remember the ground at the camp site will not be flat and level. Add extra length. I just had the tent co. add sod cloth to a canvas tent, that is a section of tent that lays flat on the ground it prevents air etc from going under the tent sides and helps hold down the tent if you place a floor in it. They have always been made of tent canvas.
The point of all this, they now use the material that the hanging banners and many hanging signs are made of. I think its vinyl, you may be able to get a banner or two. It appears to be strong, rip resistant, light weight and wind proof.
Regards to the post about using the rv while winterized is what some I know do during cold weather hunts. If the temps will be below freezing throughout the day. I will likely winterize the trailer just to be sure the water or pipes do not freeze. Last year same hunt, same dates. Night temps in the mid 20s, daytime warmed up fast to the 40s and low 50s. Even my buddy who does not have a enclosed belly was fine from any freeze problems. Maybe best to carry anti freeze and take time to winterize if weather changes.
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Old 09-14-2019, 10:28 AM   #7
JRTJH
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Also consider that if you're in an area where it freezes at night and thaws during the day, you're going to have snow that turns to slush and then the next night, turns to ice. If you have a "canvas skirt" to attach to your trailer, be prepared to cut it off and leave it "stuck frozen to the ground" when you're ready to break camp and head home..... Hopefully you'll be able to get the skirt out of the ice without damage, but you may find that you're making a trip back to camp in the spring to finish retrieving all that you left there.....
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Old 09-15-2019, 05:31 AM   #8
JBR160
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I plan on giving extra length for the uneven ground. I also found a website that recycles old vinyl bill boards. They have a 14'x48' 11 mil for $40! That will be more than enough to do the project.
Also using the vinyl will help with the problem that JRTJH brought up about the canvas sticking in the freeze and thaw cycle if it snows. Should be able to pull up stakes easily enough.
Thanks again for the great advice!
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Old 09-15-2019, 07:58 AM   #9
Ken / Claudia
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I do not post photos, but if you do please let us see the finished product. Hope it works out.
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2013 24RKSWE (27ft TT) Cougar 1/2 ton series SOLD 10-2021
2013 Ford F350 4x4 CC 6.7 engine, 8 ft bed, 3.55 rear end, lariat package
Retired from Oregon State Police in 2011 than worked another 9.5 years as a small town traffic cop:
As of 05-2020, I am all done with 39 years total police work. No more uniforms for me.
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