Black Tank Removal

huhhhhh · 06-11-2019, 04:00 AM

So I need to remove a black tank out of my 2012 Fuzion 405 Toy Hauler.
I have everything disconnected and it seems that Keystoned glued in the inlet and vent pipe to the top of the tank so it wont drop out.

What is the best way to disconnect the tank from these two pipes. I may be able to get a saws all in there for the inlet pipe but the vent pipe may be out of range.

I've seen 1-1/2 and 3 inch rubber tank grommets that I can put in a new tank to run the inlet and vent pipe back into. I think that's the only chance of getting a new tank back into the rig. Can't think of a way to get the pipes glued back in with no space to work in. They must have glued those pipes in before they put the floors in. Can't see any other way there would have been access to do that.

Roscommon48 · 06-11-2019, 04:59 AM

hate to say this but the 'best' way is to get it done by an rv center.

Frank G · 06-11-2019, 05:20 AM

All the tanks were installed prior to the floor installation. If you cannot pull the toilet and open up the wall where the vent line is you may have to open up the floor. After installing a new tank I would think you need top access to make the connections.

Good Luck

**JRTJH** · 06-11-2019, 05:41 AM

If you remove the roof vent fitting, the tank (with vent attached) should slide down. Once the tank is on the ground, you can cut the vent pipe at the tank. To install the new one, you can position the tank below the trailer, install a new vent stack (12' section) through the roof, glue it to the tank fitting, push the entire assembly up into position, The vent pipe will rise through the roof. Once the tank assembly is reinstalled, cut the vent stack to the proper height above the roof, reinstall a new vent cap and reseal. You may have to open a wall to access the vent stack if there is a strap securing it in place. I've only seen a couple of trailers with straps, most just use the wall and the roof cutout to hold the vent stack in position.

huhhhhh · 06-11-2019, 08:05 AM

Anyone ever use these Rubber Tank Grommets. Seems like it may be easier to raise a new tank into position and have the pipes slide through the grommets.
2 pipes at the same time may be a little challenging, but I can be pretty clever sometimes.

FlyingAroundRV · 06-11-2019, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If you remove the roof vent fitting, the tank (with vent attached) should slide down. Once the tank is on the ground, you can cut the vent pipe at the tank. To install the new one, you can position the tank below the trailer, install a new vent stack (12' section) through the roof, glue it to the tank fitting, push the entire assembly up into position, The vent pipe will rise through the roof. Once the tank assembly is reinstalled, cut the vent stack to the proper height above the roof, reinstall a new vent cap and reseal. You may have to open a wall to access the vent stack if there is a strap securing it in place. I've only seen a couple of trailers with straps, most just use the wall and the roof cutout to hold the vent stack in position.

^^^This
Looks like the way to go IMO.

huhhhhh · 06-11-2019, 01:47 PM

If it were only the vent pipe that would be easy. I also have to deal with the 3 inch inlet pipe from the toilet. That one looks like it has a bend in it. not sure how to deal with that pipe. Can it be disconnected from the toilet? How is it connected to the toilet? Will the toilet come off the floor or did they glue the other end of the pipe to the bottom of the toilet?

**JRTJH** · 06-11-2019, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by huhhhhh

If it were only the vent pipe that would be easy. I also have to deal with the 3 inch inlet pipe from the toilet. That one looks like it has a bend in it. not sure how to deal with that pipe. Can it be disconnected from the toilet? How is it connected to the toilet? Will the toilet come off the floor or did they glue the other end of the pipe to the bottom of the toilet?

Mine 3" black pipe is exposed in the front storage compartment. It forms a 45degree turn directly under the toilet then another 45 (back to verticle) directly over the black tank. If I had to remove mine, I'd use a saw, cut the "diagonal pipe" near the middle, then on reinstallation, I'd use a PVC/ABS union to cement it back together. I suppose the rubber may work, but I'd be concerned with the vibration in an RV that the screw clamps would work loose and I'd wind up with a "black water leak" in the front storage compartment. I'd prefer that everything having to do with the black tank and its contents be "permanently cemented in place" with no chance of a leak from something slipping loose.....

huhhhhh · 06-11-2019, 07:52 PM

I wish mine was exposed like that, it's buried in the belly of the beast

. The water heater is right next to it but that looks like a nightmare to take out.

Mikendebbie · 06-12-2019, 02:33 AM

A few years back I needed to replace the toilet in our Sportsmen travel trailer. The hub would not work with new potti and I started trying to get the hub out. It was glued into the 3” down pipe to the tank. GRRRRR! The vent pipe was also glued and I damaged the tank in the process. Long story short - I ended up replacing the whole tank because the pipes were glued in. Exact replacement tanks were no longer available from KZ so I had to buy a generic tank of the same size. Overall It was not that difficult of a job - the worst part for me was making sure I was cutting the holes into the new tank with a hole saw in the right spots. I measured 40 times and cut once!

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