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Old 07-01-2018, 10:14 AM   #11
chuckster57
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Thank you for the link.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 07-01-2018, 10:51 AM   #12
bill-e
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So I measure about 1/2 amp parasitic drain from the frame heater on my 8cf Fridge. I installed the switch in the light circuit.

My 200w Zamp panel puts out about 14a (verified) at peak her in New Hampshire. Zamp claims it's good enough for the average camper as it can charge about 40-60ah a day and that they believe the average camper uses around 40ah/day. It certainly works for my usage.

I'm going to guess that your 120w panels are good for about 30ah in a normal day. So lets just suppose that you have 200ah of battery and discharge it 50%, it would take you 3+ days to recharge it.

You should go to one of the online solar power consumption web pages and enter your data, it will give you an idea of what your consumption is per day.

I'm guessing your panel is undersized for what you want.
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:38 PM   #13
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Did you get a MPPT solar controler or PWM? You may not be taking advantage of the solar panel capability if you don't have MPPT controller. PWM throws away power if voltage is in excess of battery setpoint, but MPPT will convert to charge current best for solar power available. Also, if you hook panels up in series (say even 75 Volts or so) you can get more efficient charging and less voltage drops to battery with MPPT, check out info on that.
You may be surprised of amount of current loads draw, a battery off switch will help a lot when you don't need any power on, to give recharge some time.
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:28 PM   #14
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We can guess all day as to what you need. If it was me I would measure how much current is flowing when all is turn off. I found I had a 1.6 amp drain. I found the refrig door heater was drawing 1.2 amp. I disconnected it. (do search on site to see how to do this mod, other have done.) I have a 100 watt solar panel mounted to trailer roof, (that take care of the trailer when in storage) with only water pump and heater and lights, it keeps up with needs when camping, if I have good sunlight. I can forget about watching TV and trying to run a 110 volt inverter. At yellowstone this May, I was running the generator for 45 min in the morning ( that when the battery are low and will except the most charge ) and the solar panel would top off the battery during the day, we were getting a lot of rain and clouds. Temp were in the low 30 every night so heater was being used. I think you may need a little more solar panels up around 200 Watts.
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Old 07-21-2018, 06:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimMSCL View Post
https://rvtravel.com/reduce-unwanted...-refrigerator/

The photo shows the wire clipped at light and spade terminals attached to enable the climate control to be used again when desired. you have to pull some wire out of cabinet hole as it is tucked pretty tight. this way you still have a working light
There is NO need to do it this way or cut wires. Just remove the light and unplug the heater. It takes no more than 5 minutes including a beer to complete the job including pics (or it didn't happen).

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...6&postcount=34
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Old 07-21-2018, 06:46 PM   #16
bill-e
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Originally Posted by madmaxmutt View Post
There is NO need to do it this way or cut wires. Just remove the light and unplug the heater. It takes no more than 5 minutes including a beer to complete the job including pics (or it didn't happen).

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...6&postcount=34
I opted to install a small toggle switch so I can flick it on/off depending or whether I'm going dry or not. If I remember correctly, mine draws about a half to three quarters amp when heating.
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Old 07-22-2018, 08:20 AM   #17
madmaxmutt
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Originally Posted by bill-e View Post
I opted to install a small toggle switch so I can flick it on/off depending or whether I'm going dry or not. If I remember correctly, mine draws about a half to three quarters amp when heating.
You could still easily do that without cutting into the existing wiring by removing the light.
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Old 07-22-2018, 08:33 AM   #18
bill-e
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Here's my mod. Also replaced the bulb with an LED.



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Old 07-22-2018, 09:09 AM   #19
madmaxmutt
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Here's my mod. Also replaced the bulb with an LED.
Nice work. I would have just put it inline behind the fixture instead of cutting the wire.
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Old 07-22-2018, 10:58 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by madmaxmutt View Post
Nice work. I would have just put it inline behind the fixture instead of cutting the wire.
That's why they make dikes
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